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EDITED  BY 

K.  HOOPER  PEARSON 
MANAGING  EDITOR 
O I'^  T 1 1 E  GA  RDENERS' 
CHRONICLE 


PLATE   I   {Frontispiece) 

HUGH   DICKSON 

(One  of  the  best  H.P.'s  of  recent  introduction.) 


NEW  YORK 
FREDERICK  A.   STOKES   CO. 


PREFACE 

The  indirect  effects  of  legislation  are  notoriously  incalcu- 
lable, and  even  those  who  are  inclined  to  think  most  hardly 
of  the  Chancellor  of  the  Exchequer  would  scarcely  suggest 
that  of  malice  prepense  he  had  by  means  of  the  Finance 
1909-10  Act  deprived  the  Rose-loving  public  of  the  pleasure 
of  reading  a  book  on  Roses  from  the  pen  of  Mr.  H.  E. 
Molyneux.  Yet  it  has  so  fallen  out  that  Mr.  Molyneux, 
who  had  intended  writing  this  book,  has  found  himself 
unable  to  accomplish  the  task  owing  to  the  press  of  work 
thrown  upon  him  by  the  Act  in  question,  and  it  has  fallen 
to  me  to  prepare  the  following  pages,  owing  to  the  pressure 
of  circumstances  (and  the  Editor),  somewhat  more  hurriedly 
than  I  could  have  wished. 

Those  who,  like  myself,  are  familiar  with  Mr.  Molyneux' 
careful  observation  and  graceful  method  of  expression,  must 
regret  that  he  has  been  unable  to  accomplish  the  task 
he  had  proposed,  and  must  hope  that  before  long  we 
may  again  renew  our  interest  in  his  writings,  and  reap  the 
benefit  of  his  judgment  and  experience. 

In  compiling  this  little  book,  although  I  have,  I  fear, 
somewhat  exceeded  the  limits  of  space  originally  assigned 
to  me,  I  have  found  the  subjects  calling  for  discussion  so 
many  that  I  have  had  much  difficulty  in  deciding  which  to 
reject.      The  plan   I   finally  selected  has  been   to  confine 


145258 


Vlll 


PREFACE 


myself  as  far  as  possible  to  matters  relating  strictly  to  the 
practical  cultivation  of  Roses.  Matters  of  more  theoretical 
interest,  such  as  the  History  of  the  Rose,  and  of  the  forms 
of  culture  practised  in  the  past,  I  have  found  it  necessary 
to  reject ;  and  for  different  reasons,  subjects  like  Hybridisa- 
tion and  the  raising  of  new  varieties,  and  similar  subjects 
which  would  be  of  practical  value  to  a  limited  class  of 
readers,  have  also  had  to  go.  I  have,  however,  endeavoured 
to  include  as  far  as  possible  such  matters  as  the  amateur 
rosarian  is  likely  to  concern  himself  with  in  growing  his 
own  Roses  in  his  own  garden,  and  to  try  to  solve  some 
difficulties  with  which,  from  my  numerous  correspondence, 
it  appears  amateurs  are  frequently  confronted. 

It  is  but  a  short  time  since  Mr.  Pemberton's  much  more 
elaborate  treatise  on  Roses  appeared,  but  even  in  that 
time  I  regret  to  have  been  obliged  to  add  somewhat  con- 
siderably to  the  list  of  diseases  and  pests  with  which  we 
are  troubled.  The  introduction  of  improved  forms  of 
washes  and  of  syringes  for  applying  them  has,  it  is  true,  in 
large  measure  helped  us  to  keep  some  of  these  plagues  at 
bay,  but  syringing  is  at  best  a  mitigation  and  seldom  a  cure 
of  the  evil  against  which  it  is  directed,  and  I  have  among 
my  friends  some  who  consider  the  time  it  involves  may 
be  better  spent  in  other  ways. 

It  is  quite  within  the  bounds  of  possibility  that  the 
hybridist  might  help  rosarians  considerably  if  he  could 
be  induced  to  direct  his  attention  to  the  introduction  of 
disease-proof  Roses.  As  far  as  I  can  judge,  that  fine-coloured 
Rose  Rayon  d'Or  is  practically  immune  from  mildew  ;  I 
have  had  it  growing  in  a  bed  surrounded  with  Roses  such  as 
Theresa  which  have  suffered  badly,  without  seeing  the  least 


PREFACE  ix 

trace  of  the  hoary  fungus  invade  its  brilliant  and  shining 
foliage.  Here  perhaps  may  be  the  commencement  of  a 
new  era  for  the  rosarian. 

As  to  new  Roses,  I  have  said  but  little,  for  there  is  little 
that  can  be  said  from  one's  own  actual  experience,  and  I 
have  tried  to  confine  myself  to  this.  The  annual  produc- 
tion of  new  Roses  is  now  very  large ;  more  than  a 
hundred  new  varieties  are  usually  put  in  commerce  each 
year.  It  usually  takes  at  least  four  years  for  a  new  Rose  to 
become  at  all  common  in  gardens,  and  then  our  experience 
of  it  in  a  wet  summer  may  prove  to  be  almost  valueless  in 
a  hot  and  dry  one,  and  vice  versa. 

I  ought  to  add  a  word  about  the  illustrations.  For 
these  I  am  not  personally  responsible  ;  they  were,  I  believe, 
selected  and  completed  before  I  was  asked  to  undertake 
this  book.  Their  chief  interest  lies  in  the  fact  that  they  are 
photographs  in  colour  of  actual  Roses.  Some  idea  of  the 
difficulty  attending  this  form  of  photography  may  be  formed 
from  the  statement  made  to  me  that  in  some  cases  the 
Rose,  in  sitting  for  its  portrait,  was  required  to  keep  still 
during  an  exposure  of  as  much  as  six  hours. 

H.  R.  D. 

Potters  Bar,  191  i. 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Introduction i 

CHAP. 

I.  Situation 9 

II.  Soils 11 

III.  Beds  and  Borders 13 

IV.  The  Preparation  of  new  Beds  for  Roses  .         .  14 
V.  Planting  and  Transplanting         .         .        .        .21 

VI.  The  Art  of  Pruning 23 

VII.  Manures 52 

VIII.  Summer  Treatment 58 

IX.  Propagation 61 

X.  Exhibiting 77 

XL  Selections  and  Descriptions  :    Exhibition  Roses  86 

XII.     Do.     Decorative  Roses  for  Exhibition      .         .  loi 

XIII.  Do.     Roses  for  Decoration  of  the  Garden     .  103 

XIV.  Do.     Roses  for  Bedding 112 

XV.     Do.     Pillar  Roses 114 

XVI.     Do.     Roses  for  the  Rock  Garden       .         .         .118 

XVII.     Do.     Roses  Suitable  for  Growing  as  Big  Bushes, 

or  Specimen  Plants:   Roses  for  Walls  120 


xii  CONTENTS 

CHAP.  PAGE 

XVIII.  Selections   and    Descriptions  :    Sweet    Briars 

(R.    RUBIGINOSa) 121 

XIX.     Do.     China  Roses 122 

XX.     Do.     Polyantha  Pompon  Roses         .         .         .124 

XXI.     Do.     Rambling  Roses 127 

XXII.     Do.     Rosa  Rugosa 131 

XXIII.  Do.    Roses  for  a  Small  Garden     .        .         .  133 

XXIV.  Fragrance  in  Roses 135 

XXV.  Rose  Species 144 

XXVI.  The  British  Roses 150 

XXVII.  Roses  under  Glass 154 

XXVI 11.  Diseases  and  Pests 159 

XXIX.  Calendar  of  Operations  for  each  Month  in 

the  Year 180 

Bibliography 185 

General  Index    187 

Index  of  Roses  mentioned  in  this  Book         .  189 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS 


PLATE 

I.  Hugh  Dickson  (H.P.) 


II.  Hiawatha  (Wichuraiana) 

III.  Mrs.  John  Laing  (H.P.)  . 

IV.  Madame  Ravary  (H.T.)   . 

V.  Dorothy  Perkins  (Wichuraiana) 
VI.  The  Lyons  Rose  (H.T.)  . 
VII.  Frau  Karl  Druschki  (H.P.)   . 
VIII.  Juliet  (Hybrid  Briar)     . 


Frontispiece 


PAGE 

i6 


42 
70 
94 
116 
140 
166 


ROSES 


INTRODUCTION 

Are  we  to  have  the  garden  for  the  Rose,  or  the  Rose  for 
the  garden  ?  It  is  somewhat  strange  that  this  question 
should  be  asked  at  all,  but  it  at  least  says  something  for 
the  Rose  that  the  late  Mr.  Foster  Melliar,  and  doubtless 
other  rosarians  of  the  last  century,  should  have  answered 
unhesitatingly  in  favour  of  the  first  alternative.  Yet  much 
has  happened  among  Roses  in  the  past  twenty  years,  and  it 
is  no  longer  possible  to  admit  as  Mr.  Melliar  did  "  that  for 
masses  of  grand  colour  as  viewed  from  a  distance  no  Rose 
effect  can  equal  that  of  the  Rhododendrons."  I  would  yield 
to  none  in  my  estimate  of  the  value  of  colour  in  the  garden, 
whether  it  be  found  in  the  mass  or  in  the  individual  flower, 
and  it  is  with  no  want  of  appreciation  of  the  grand  colour 
effect  of  a  bold  group  of  Rhododendron  or  Azalea  in  the 
height  of  its  spring  glory,  that  I  would  point  to  the  pro- 
fusion of  colour  in  July  to  be  found  in  the  grape-like 
clusters  of  Dorothy  Perkins  or  Minnehaha,  and  the  won- 
derful glow  of  colour  produced  by  a  well-covered  arch  or 
weeping  standard  of  Hiawatha  in  the  evening  sun. 

Sir  Michael  Foster  used  to  say  that  he  was  seldom  three 
weeks  in  the  year  without  an  Iris  in  flower  in  his  garden — 

A 


2        PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

a  wonderful  record  which  few  are  likely  to  attain — but 
the  flowering  of  individual  plants  of  members  of  the  Iris 
family  is  confined  to  a  few  weeks,  while  we  have  many 
varieties  of  Roses  that  will  produce  flowers  almost  con- 
tinuously from  May  to  December,  and  those  who  possess 
a  greenhouse  may  obtain  Roses  indoors  from  February 
until  the  outdoor  Roses  come  into  bloom. 

There  should,  in  fact,  be  only  one  answer  to  the  ques- 
tion with  which  I  began,  and  that  should  be  "  Both." 
Were  it  necessary  to  choose  between  the  alternatives  of  the 
garden  for  the  Rose  or  the  Rose  for  the  garden,  I  would 
personally  prefer  to  sacrifice  the  former  for  the  latter ;  but 
the  choice  would  be  as  unsatisfactory  as  it  is  unnecessary, 
and  the  object  of  this  little  book  is  to  show  how  it  may  be 
possible  to  cultivate  beautiful  Roses  in  a  beautiful  garden. 

Another  choice  often  unnecessarily  presented  to  the 
owner  of  a  Rose  garden  is  said  to  lie  between  his  garden 
and  the  exhibition.  "  Show  Roses  1  If  once  we  allowed 
our  gardener  to  show  Roses  we  should  never  be  able  to 
pick  another  flower  in  the  garden."  These  and  similar 
expressions  to  the  disparagement  of  Rose-showing  are 
common,  and  I  believe  generally  quite  misconceived. 
The  development  of  Rose  shows,  and  particularly  of  the 
decorative  classes  and  classes  for  garden  Roses,  has  done 
an  enormous  amount  for  the  improvement  of  the  garden. 
It  is  only  by  comparing  his  own  productions  with  those 
of  others,  including,  if  he  be  an  amateur,  the  flowers  he 
has  staged  with  those  put  up  in  similar  classes  by  nursery- 
men, that  the  exhibitor  learns  the  perfection  to  which 
Roses  may  be  brought  and  how  far  his  own  blooms  fail 
short  of  the  ideal. 


ROSES    FOR    EXHIBITION  3 

He  very  soon  learns  that  his  plants  should,  in  the 
first  place,  be  free  from  weakness  and  disease.  It  is 
not  as  a  rule  in  the  exhibitor's  garden  that  the  Rose- 
bushes are  white  with  mildew  or  red  with  rust,  or  turned 
into  fodder  plants  for  the  delectation  of  all  the  sawfly 
grubs  and  caterpillars  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  cutting 
of  Roses  for  exhibition  in  boxes  never,  I  think,  damages 
the  garden,  and  even  the  big  vases  of  garden  Roses 
and  groups  of  decorative  varieties  seldom  make  such  a 
tax  on  the  garden  that  its  beauty  is  not  soon  renewed. 
Still,  it  must  be  admitted  that  exhibiting  is  strenuous  work, 
and  if  some  of  our  friends  do  not  care  to  bear  the  labour 
and  heat  of  the  day  in  assisting  to  provide  the  display,  let 
us  hope  they  will  be  moved,  when  they  visit  our  shows, 
to  help  to  defray  the  necessary  expenses. 

The  supreme  object  of  the  Rose  shows  ought  to  be 
the  improvement  of  our  gardens.  And  they  have  accom- 
plished a  great  deal  in  that  direction.  It  is  there  that  most 
of  us  first  see  the  New  Roses,  and  the  crowds  that  throng 
the  tent  set  apart  for  these  novelties  at  the  "National" 
sufficiently  attest  the  widespread  interest  they  awaken 
every  year,  but  even  more  important  is  the  annual  test  to 
which  they  subject  our  established  favourites.  To  many  of 
us  who  are  confirmed  exhibitors  the  actual  pleasure  of  a 
Rose  show  is  considerable,  and  each  has  his  own  method 
of  enjoying  it.  To  Dean  Hole  one  may  surmise  the  plea- 
sure lay  largely  in  the  genial  companionship  of  so  many 
loyal  subjects  of  the  great  Queen  Rosa.  To  Foster  Melliar, 
perhaps,  it  was  the  joy  of  battle.  To  some  the  great  delight 
may  be  the  delicious  perfume  and  the  grace  and  beauty  of 
the  Roses  themselves.     To  others  imagination  will  paint  in 


4       PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

glowing  colours  the  wonderful  effects  which,  through  the 
increased  knowledge  they  are  acquiring,  they  hope  to  be 
able  to  produce  in  their  own  gardens. 

I  remember,  at  one  of  the  few  Rose  shows  I  have 
attended  at  the  Crystal  Palace,  seeing  a  dear  old  gentleman, 
obviously  a  country  parson,  who  with  the  assistance  of  his 
wife  was  carefully  and  methodically  going  through  each 
exhibit,  admiring  each  Rose  as  he  came  to  it  and  accurately 
recording  its  name  in  a  pocket-book.  I  know  not  what 
sort  of  an  order  he  gave  to  his  nurseryman  in  the  ensuing 
autumn,  but  evidently  he  had  some  scheme  of  that  kind  on 
foot,  for  after  a  time  the  lady  became  a  little  restive.  "  I 
am  sure,  John,  I  have  seen  you  write  down  that  name 
before,"  she  said.  A  consultation  followed,  and  it  was 
found  the  lady  was  right  and  the  name  had  been  already 
registered  four  times  in  the  pocket-book,  but  it  was  not  to 
be  so  registered  for  nothing.  "  My  dear,"  he  said,  "  I  think 
we  shall  have  to  get  four  plants  of  that  Rose  this  autumn." 
Let  us  hope  the  investment  proved  satisfactory.  But  save 
for  the  undoubted  pleasure  the  old  gentleman  derived  from 
the  compilation  of  his  list,  his  method,  though  not  un- 
common, was  somewhat  too  hazardous  to  be  likely  to 
reward  him. 

The  novice  who  attends  a  show  and  orders  a  plant  of 
each  of  the  varieties  that  excites  his  admiration,  without 
inquiry  as  to  their  habit  in  the  garden,  will  probably  be 
disappointed  to  find  the  result  not  come  up  to  his  expecta- 
tion, particularly  if  he  plant  them  at  haphazard  in  a  single 
bed.  I  have  seen  many  such  beds.  The  most  important 
position  is  probably  occupied  by  Bessie  Brown,  a  Rose 
quite  useless  in  the  garden,  hanging  her  head  at  the  un- 


ROSE    BEDS  5 

expected  prominence  assigned  to  her;  then  there  is  a 
strong  Noella  Nabonnand,  and  hard  by  the  meagre  remains 
of  a  plant  of  Bridesmaid.  Helping  to  cover  this  on  the 
other  side  is  perhaps  Gustave  Regis,  and  then  a  weakly  plant 
of  Papa  Gontier,  in  front  of  this  Madame  Jules  Grolez,  and 
next  door,  taking  out  all  its  colour,  the  Lyons  Rose,  then 
Lady  Ashtown  and  Griiss  an  Teplitz.  Many  of  these  are 
good  Roses,  but  half  of  them  are  spoiling  the  other  half,  and 
the  result  is  neither  a  good  bed  nor  good  flowers. 

Now,  I  have  no  desire  to  dictate  to  any  one  how  he 
should  plant  his  garden.  A  man's  garden  should  be  a  place 
where  he  is  to  take  his  pleasure,  and  should  conform  to  his 
own  ideals,  not  to  those  of  some  one  else.  I  entertain  a 
strong  opinion  that  no  one  can  make  a  satisfactory  garden 
for  another.  Moreover,  circumstances  of  size,  shape,  posi- 
tion, and  the  means  of  the  proprietor  vary  so  greatly  that  it 
is  neither  practicable  nor  desirable  to  lay  down  rigid  rules. 
But  I  should  like,  if  I  can,  to  help  the  owner  of  the  small 
garden,  and  particularly  if  it  should  be  one  of  those  awk- 
wardly shaped  plots  so  often  met  with  in  our  suburbs, 
laid  out  by  builders  or  estate  agents,  a  race  apparently 
gifted  with  little  consideration  for  the  convenience  of  the 
gardener,  or  any  ideas  of  beauty  that  reside  not  in  mathe- 
matically straight  lines  drawn  by  the  office  ruler.  It  was 
in  such  a  garden,  about  20  yards  wide  by  100  yards 
long,  that  I  first  began  to  grow  Roses  "on  my  own,"  and 
possibly  effects  that  have  been  pleasing  to  me  may  please 
others. 

Such  a  garden  often  contains  a  number  of  small 
beds  intended  to  be  planted  afresh  every  summer  with 
Pelargoniums    or    Begonias,    Lobelia    and    Tropaeolums. 


6        PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

But  these  little  beds,  if  planted  with  China  or  dwarf  Poly- 
antha  Roses  or  other  bedding  varieties,  afford  a  longer 
period  of  flower  and  give  interest  and  occupation  all  the 
year  round.  Beds  which  do  not  conveniently  hold  more 
than  a  dozen  Roses  are  best  planted  each  with  one  variety 
only.  A  small  bed  of  mixed  Roses  is  seldom  satisfactory, 
and  even  in  the  case  of  larger  beds  or  borders  intended  to 
hold  fifty  to  a  hundred  Roses  it  is  better  to  select  a  few  sorts 
and  use,  let  us  say,  ten  or  a  dozen  of  each  variety  chosen. 
In  such  a  case  standard  Roses  may  conveniently  be  employed 
to  separate  the  different  varieties.  A  bed  of  standards 
should  almost  always  be  avoided.  I  still  have  an  affection, 
perhaps  partly  from  old  associations,  for  the  old-fashioned 
plan  of  planting  standards  each  in  a  single  bed  in  the  grass 
alongside  the  drive  or  gravel  walk,  or  round  the  edge  of 
the  lawn,  but  in  a  small  garden  the  amount  of  valuable 
space  thus  occupied  is  a  consideration. 

In  a  small,  suburban  garden  such  as  I  have  referred 
to,  the  owner  on  taking  possession  will  often  find  the 
kitchen  garden  separated  from  the  flower  garden  by  a 
Privet  hedge.  His  first  step  should  be  to  root  this  up 
and  substitute  Penzance  Sweet  Briars  for  the  Privet. 
Ordinary  iron  railings  may  be  placed  along  the  line  of 
the  fence  and  the  Briars  planted  about  3  feet  apart  on 
each  side  of  the  railing.  The  height  of  the  fence  may 
be  increased  to  8  or  10  feet  by  fastening  iron  uprights 
between  each  rail.  Any  blacksmith  can  make  these  up- 
rights and  pierce  them  with  holes  through  which  galvanised 
wire  can  be  threaded.  The  garden  will  probably  be 
surrounded  by  oak  fencing  with  a  border  3  to  6  feet 
wide  at  its  base.     These  borders  are  not  very  good  places 


FENCES    AND    PERGOLAS  7 

for  dwarf  bush  Roses,  but  if  they  must  be  utiHsed  they 
are  best  planted  with  China  and  Polyantha  Roses.  At 
the  same  time,  the  fences  are  excellent  places  against 
which  to  grow  rambling  and  climbing  Roses.  Many  of 
the  Wichuraianas  and  Multifloras  may  be  grown  satis- 
factorily on  these  fences  with  almost  any  aspect  except 
due  north.  If  the  aspect  be  north,  F61icit6  Perp^tue  or 
Dundee  Rambler  may  be  tried.  On  a  south  or  west 
aspect  the  Noisettes  or  climbing  Hybrid  Teas  may  be 
grown.  The  bush  Roses  and  standards,  H.P.'s,  H.T.'s, 
and  Teas  are  best  grown  some  little  distance  from  the 
fences,  and  collected  into  or  round  the  centre  of  the 
garden. 

Perhaps  I  should  add  a  word  about  pergolas.  The 
pergola  is  a  convenient  structure  on  which  to  grow  climb- 
ing Roses,  but  it  is  well  to  be  careful  where  it  is  placed. 
The  first  essential  of  a  pergola  is  that  it  should  lead 
somewhere,  from  the  house  to  the  Rose  garden  if  con- 
venient ;  but  it  should  not  be  put  in  some  side  part  of 
the  garden  where  a  path  is  not  required.  If  it  be  made 
of  wood  the  bark  should  not  be  left  on.  Bark  looks 
very  nice  for  a  year  or  two,  but  it  soon  becomes  the 
resort  of  thousands  of  pests  of  all  kinds  ;  rather  let  it  be 
stripped  off  and  the  wood  painted  with  creosote. 

Finally,  with  what  shall  the  Roses  be  surrounded  ? 
The  choice  generally  lies  between  gravel  and  grass. 
Gravel  is  no  doubt  convenient  for  getting  access  to  the 
beds  in  winter,  but  if  possible  it  should  be  confined 
to  the  outer  parts  of  the  Rose  garden,  for  Roses  never  look 
so  well  as  when  surrounded  by  neat  paths  of  grass,  and 
let  the  central  part  at  least  be  fairly  spacious.     A  central 


8        PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

grass  path  through  the  middle  of  the  Rose  garden,  not 
less  than  9  feet  wide,  will  well  repay  the  trouble  it  may 
give  in  keeping  it  mown. 

The  keeping  open  of  the  central  part  of  the  Rose 
garden  is  of  considerable  importance.  A  sundial  may 
be  placed  there  if  desired,  but  no  larger  construction. 
Rose  temples  and  fantastic  arrangements  of  chains  and 
posts,  if  necessary,  must  be  kept  to  the  sides  ;  so,  too, 
should  the  summer-house.  A  good,  roomy  summer-house 
covered  with  climbing  Roses,  and,  if  possible  with  a  thatched 
roof,  is  both  beautiful  and  useful  much  better  than  any 
Rose  temple,  though  I  much  fear  my  friendly  reader,  if 
a  novice,  will  want  to  try  the  temple  scheme  before  he 
realises  it  is  generally  a  mistake. 

But  I  fear  I  am  getting  too  particular.  We  know 
from  Lord  Beaconsfield  that  gardeners  are  an  opinionated 
race,  and  my  object  is  to  assist  my  friends  rather  than 
criticise  them.  May  I,  however,  say  at  once  that  I  have 
myself  committed  all  the  mistakes  I  have  criticised,  and 
many  more  ;  and,  after  all,  the  finding  out  one's  mistakes 
and  devising  remedies  for  them  is  part  of  the  fun  of 
gardening. 


CHAPTER  I 

SITUATION 

The  situation  of  the  Rose  garden  is  not  often  under  the 
control  of  the  rosarian,  but  if  he  has  any  choice  in  the 
matter,  then  several  points  deserve  his  attention. 

Thus  he  should  try  to  secure  as  far  as  possible  : — 

1.  Freedom  from  frost. 

2.  Exposure  to  sun  and  air, 

3.  Protection  from  cold  winds. 

1.  To  secure  protection  from  frost,  a  high  position 
should  be  chosen.  Cold  air  falls  and  hot  air  rises,  so  what  is 
wanted  is  a  site  not  necessarily  high  above  sea-level,  but  re- 
latively high  compared  with  the  surrounding  country,  so  that 
the  cold  air  may  slip  away  down  the  neighbouring  valleys. 

2.  Exposure  to  sun  and  air  is  most  important.  Few 
Roses  will  flower  well  without  sun  ;  while  if  there  is  not 
a  free  circulation  of  air  there  is  usually  constant  trouble 
with  mildew  and  fungus.  To  obtain  the  full  benefit  of 
the  sun,  a  gentle  slope  of  the  ground  southwards  should  be 
chosen,  and  if  this  is  done  the  soil  will  have  a  temperature 
higher  by  some  degrees  than  a  soil  which  slopes  to  the 
north.  At  the  time  of  the  spring  frosts  a  certain  amount 
of  shelter  from  the  east  gives  time  for  the  plants  to  recover 
gradually  after  a  night  of  frost  before  they  receive  the  full 
force  of  the  spring  sunshine. 


D.  H.  KILL  LIBRARY 
North  Carolirfa  State  Colleg* 


lo     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

3.  Protection  from  cold  winds  is  best  secured  by  the 
presence  of  walls  or  buildings  on  the  north  and  east,  and 
by  a  low  wall  or  fence  to  the  south-west.  It  is  wonderful 
how  much  protection  is  afforded  by  a  low  wall ;  the  wind 
seems  to  lift  up  over  it  and  pass  above  the  garden  behind  it. 

Failing  a  wall,  hedges  of  various  sorts  may  be  made. 
In  the  nurseries,  one  often  finds  Beech  hedges  planted  for 
protection,  but  for  the  Rose  garden  there  is  nothing  so 
pleasant  in  the  summer  evenings  as  a  hedge  of  Sweet  Briar 
or  Penzance  Briars.  The  sweet  and  delicate  scent  pervades 
the  air  and  gives  an  added  pleasure  to  working  in  the 
garden.  The  Penzance  Briars  will  make  a  fine  hedge  up  to 
12  feet  high.  Then  the  Wichuraianas,  such  as  Dorothy 
Perkins,  will  grow  as  tall  and  are  nearly  evergreen,  and  the 
Rugosas  are  hardy  and  make  a  good  hedge  from  6  to  8  feet 
high.  All  these  are  hungry  feeders,  and  when  grown  so 
thickly  as  to  form  a  hedge,  dwarf  Roses  should  not  be 
planted  within  10  or  12  feet.  If  it  is  necessary  to  have 
dwarf  Roses  in  the  hedge  border,  choose  the  Chinas.  A 
wood  at  some  distance  away  may  afford  good  shelter,  but 
it  is  not  desirable  to  have  trees  very  near.  Roses  should 
never  be  planted  under  the  drip  from  their  boughs,  nor 
nearer  the  trunk  than  the  tree's  height.  Even  then,  there 
will  be  constant  trouble  with  their  roots,  for,  as  Mr.  Foster 
Melliar  discovered,  even  concrete  walls  underground  will  not 
always  prevent  them  from  trespassing  into  the  Rose  soil. 


CHAPTER  II 

SOILS 

Roses  will  grow  after  a  fashion  in  almost  any  soil.  But 
if  it  be  poor  and  gravelly,  unfertile  clay  or  poor  chalk,  the 
best  results  can  only  be  attained  by  careful  preparation 
before  the  trees  are  planted. 

Soils  with  a  large  proportion  of  clay  in  their  constitu- 
tion are  generally  called  heavy  or,  as  the  Midland  farmers 
expressively  say,  "loving,"  while  those  in  which  sand  bears 
a  large  part  are  called  open  or  light. 

A  heavy,  clay  soil  is  often  called  cold,  and  a  friable,  light 
soil,  warm,  but  this  is  not  quite  correct.  The  light  soil 
warms  up  decidedly  more  quickly  than  the  heavy  soil  under 
the  influence  of  the  sun  in  spring,  and  during  the  summer, 
when  warmth  is  most  wanted,  is  generally  of  a  higher 
temperature  ;  but  in  the  autumn,  when  the  temperature  is 
falling,  the  light  soil  loses  its  heat  more  rapidly  than  the 
heavy,  clay  soil,  and  growth  will  be  noticed  to  continue 
later  into  the  autumn  on  clay  than  on  light  soils,  while  the 
average  winter  temperature  of  clay  soils  is  slightly  the 
higher.  Mr.  A.  D.  Hall  has  shown  that  the  "  lateness  "  of 
clay  and  undrained  soils  in  the  spring  is  at  least  in  part  due 
to  the  large  amount  of  water  they  contain  which  is  evapo- 
rated by  the  early  spring  winds,  which  in  so  doing  keep 
down  the  temperature  of  these  soils.     This  evaporation  can 


12      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

be  to  some  extent  checked,  and  the  spring  temperature 
of  the  soil  raised,  (i)  by  establishing  a  loose  tilth  of  the 
surface,  and  (2)  by  providing  some  shelter  to  break  the 
force  of  the  wind. 

So  far  as  Roses  are  concerned,  the  Teas,  Chinas,  Rugosas, 
and  probably  many  of  the  Wichuraianas  prefer  a  rather 
light  sandy,  or  gravelly,  soil,  while  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals, 
most  of  the  Hybrid  Teas  and  all  the  Briars,  succeed  best  on 
a  soil  of  a  rather  heavy  and  retentive  character. 


CHAPTER   III 

BEDS  AND   BORDERS 

The  size  and  shape  of  the  beds  intended  to  receive  the 
plants  is  not  unimportant.  For  dwarf  Roses  the  best  width 
is  5  or  6  feet,  and  the  beds  may  be  as  long  as  the  ground 
will  allow.  I  think  most  amateurs  begin  by  making  their 
beds  too  wide  ;  certainly  I  did  so  myself.  When  space  is 
limited  we  are  apt  to  grudge  the  room  required  by  paths, 
but  it  is  of  great  importance  to  be  able  to  get  at  all  sides 
of  the  plants.  A  bed  5  feet  wide  will  take  3  rows  of  roses  ; 
this  allows  a  space  of  i  foot  between  the  outer  rows  and 
the  grass  or  gravel  edge,  and  18  inches  between  the  rows. 
With  a  6-foot  bed  we  may  have  4  rows  of  plants,  and  this  is 
the  limit.  Dwarf  Roses  look  very  well  when  grown  in  beds 
from  6  to  10  feet  in  length,  one  variety  in  each  bed,  or,  if 
long  beds  are  used,  groups  of  16  to  20  Roses  of  one  variety 
may  be  separated  by  a  single  standard.  I  do  not  like  beds 
of  standards,  but  am  rather  fond  of  the  old-fashioned  plan 
of  growing  standards  in  single  beds  round  the  lawn.  These 
beds  for  single  standards  should  be  made  in  the  first 
instance  at  least  4  feet  square,  the  grass  being  brought  in 
later  if  d-esired. 


CHAPTER  IV 

THE  PREPARATION  OF  NEW  BEDS  FOR  ROSES 

The  conditions  of  subsoil,  soil,  and  situation  vary  so 
greatly  in  different  places  that  it  is  impossible  to  lay  down 
one  hard-and-fast  rule  for  all  cases,  and  the  amount  of 
labour  available  and  the  time  at  the  disposal  of  the  rosarian 
are  also  factors  that  must  be  borne  in  mind,  but  whatever 
plan  is  decided  on  there  are  three  points  of  primary  im- 
portance : — 

1.  Drainage. — First  and  most  essential  is  drainage. 
Roses  will  not  thrive  where  the  rain  cannot  pass  away 
readily  from  their  roots,  and  they  are,  moreover,  much  more 
liable  to  injury  from  frost  when  the  soil  is  in  a  wet  and 
stagnant  condition.  An  outfall  for  the  water  must  be  se- 
cured and  the  beds  properly  drained  whenever  necessary, 
and  this  practically  means  in  all  cases,  except  where  the 
soil  is  gravel,  chalk  or  other  porous  material,  which  allows 
naturally  a  free  escape  of  water. 

2.  Retention  of  Moisture. — Roses,  though  impatient 
of  standing  water,  delight  in  a  free  and  deep  root  run  in 
a  soil  retentive  of  moisture,  and  in  order  to  secure  this 
there  should  be  a  considerable  amount  of  "  humus " 
(decayed  vegetable  matter)  in  the  soil,  a  condition  that 
is  best  secured  by  the  addition  of  leaf-mould  and  farm- 
yard or  stable  manure. 


PLATE  II 

HIAWATHA    (WICHURAIANA) 

A  brilliant-coloured  climbing  Rose. 


FIRM    PLANTING  17 

The  old  florist's  rule  of  3  feet  of  well-worked  soil  below 
the  surface  holds  in  the  case  of  Roses  as  well  as  for  bulbs 
and  kitchen-garden  produce. 

3.  Firm  Planting. — The  soil  in  which  the  Roses  are 
to  be  planted  must  be  firm,  therefore  the  making  of  the 
beds  intended  to  receive  the  plants  ought  to  be  finished 
a  month  before  the  Roses  arrive  from  the  nursery,  to  allow 
the  soil  to  settle  down  and  become  penetrated  by  the 
autumn  rains.  On  heavy,  clay  lands  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  make  the  beds  in  spring  and  cultivate  a  crop  of  annuals 
in  the  summer,  digging  them  in  and  planting  the  Roses 
in  the  following  autumn.  When  planting  is  in  progress 
the  soil  must  be  firmly  trodden  down  round  the  plants, 
and  it  is  good  practice  to  repeat  this  operation  again  in 
the  spring  at  the  time  of  pruning  the  Roses  planted  in  the 
previous  autumn. 

This  firm  planting  is  far  more  important  than  amateurs 
are  inclined  to  consider.  Shirley  Hibberd  mentions  a 
case  where  the  most  costly  preparation  had  been  made, 
good  Roses  purchased  and  properly  pruned,  but  when 
called  on  to  advise  on  them  in  June  he  found  that  they 
looked  miserable  and  starved,  a  mass  of  blackish-green, 
scrubby  sticks.  They  were  loosely  planted.  All  that  was 
required  was  to  tread  the  beds  backwards  and  forwards 
till  the  soil  was  firm  as  a  pavement.  The  following  year 
they  were  "  a  mass  of  green  foliage  and  thumping  flowers." 

A  few  methods  of  preparing  the  beds  are  as  follow  : — 

(a)  First  let  us  suppose  we  are  indifferent  to  time  or 
expense  and  take  the  ideal  method.  Dig  out  all  the  soil 
to  a  depth  of  3  feet,  preserve  the  best,  and  carry  the  greater 
part,  perhaps  two-thirds,  right  away.     If  the  subsoil  is  not 


i8      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

naturally  porous,  slope  the  bottom  to  6  inches  deeper  in 
the  centre  of  the  bed.  Then  lay  a  2-inch  drain-pipe  down 
the  middle  of  the  bed  and  connect  it  with  an  outfall.  On 
the  top  of  the  drain-pipe  fill  in  with  6  inches  of  rough, 
porous  material  such  as  mortar  rubble,  broken  brickbats, 
burnt  clay,  or  even,  if  nothing  else  presents  itself,  clinkers 
from  the  greenhouse  boiler.  This  is  to  be  spread  all  over 
the  bed  and  so  make  a  porous  foundation.  On  the  top  of 
the  porous  bed  place  a  layer  of  old  turf,  then  a  layer  of 


Diagram  showing  section  of  Rose  bed 

(a)  2-inch  drain-pipe. 

(d)   Rubble  and  porous  material. 

{c)   Alternate  layers  of  top-spit  and  old  manure. 

(d)  Upper  portion  in  which  the  roses  are  planted 

consisting  of  good  soil  and  leaf-mould. 

[e)  Grass  level. 

manure,  then  turf  and  top-spit,  if  possible  from  a  heavy 
pasture,  and  again  manure,  then  top-spit  again,  and  so  on 
till  you  get  to  9  or  10  inches  of  the  surface,  giving  a 
sprinkling  from  time  to  time  of  ^  or  ^  inch  bones.  Then 
mix  the  heap  of  best  soil  you  have  preserved  with  a 
quantity  of  leaf-mould,  turning  it  over  till  it  is  thoroughly 
incorporated,  and  fill  up  with  this  to   3  inches  above  the 


PREPARING    THE    BEDS  19 

level  of  the  ground.     This  will  give  you  a  bed  that  will 
last  for  years,  with  but  little  attention  except  hoeing. 

(6)  A  modification  of  this  method  is  to  preserve  a 
greater  quantity  of  the  soil,  keeping  the  best  as  before  for 
mixing  with  leaf-mould  for  the  top,  and  to  use  a  certain 
amount  of  the  other  soil  dug  from  the  bed  with  the  turfy 
layers  as  the  work  proceeds. 

(c)  Where,  as  in  many  parts  of  the  London  district,  the 
subsoil  consists  of  stiff,  cheesy,  unfertile  clay,  it  is  a  good 
plan,  after  setting  aside  the  best  soil,  to  make  a  ballast  fire 
and  burn  the  clay  as  it  is  dug  out,  by  mixing  it  with  slack  on 
the  fire.  When  a  good  heap  of  ballast  has  been  obtained, 
sift  it  through  a  ^-inch  sieve  ;  use  the  coarse  for  the  bottom 
to  cover  the  drainage,  and  mix  up  the  fine  with  the  soil 
set  aside  to  use  for  the  upper  part  of  the  bed,  together  with 
some  good  farmyard  or  stable  manure.  Treated  thus,  many 
apparently  hopeless  clay  soils  give  excellent  results  ;  Roses 
get  their  fibrous  roots  into  the  burnt  clay  and  greatly  ap- 
preciate it.  Roses  will  not  grow  satisfactorily  in  sheer 
clay.  The  finer  ballast  sifted  through  the  ^-inch  sieve  is 
also  excellent  material  for  top-dressing  established  plants. 

(d)  Where  the  soil  is  already  fairly  good,  after  the 
drainage  has  received  attention  it  may  be  sufficient  to 
trench  or  bastard-trench  the  ground,  two  or  even  three  spits 
deep,  working  in  a  liberal  supply  of  old  manure,  especially 
into  the  lower  spits. 

Even  poor  soils  will  give  good  results  if  thus  deeply 
worked  and  manured,  and  in  dealing  with  poor  soils  it  is 
to  be  remembered  that  if  the  soil  is  good  and  rich,  round 
and  below  the  roots  of  the  Roses,  it  is  not  of  much  im- 
portance  if  the   top   5   or  6  inches  is  of   relatively  poor 


20     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

quality.  It  is  so  easy  to  enrich  this  in  subsequent  years 
in  the  ordinary  routine  of  culture. 

Where  an  old  Rose  bed  is  being  remade,  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  wheel  away  a  large  portion  of  the  soil  from  the  bed, 
and  replace  it  by  soil  from  the  kitchen  garden,  using  the 
soil  wheeled  from  the  Rose  bed  to  replace  that  taken  from 
the  kitchen  garden.  To  the  Rose  bed  a  certain  proportion 
of  turf  or  top-spit  may  be  added  if  it  be  available.  Both 
Roses  and  kitchen  garden  will  benefit  from  this  treatment. 

As  general  directions  for  the  treatment  or  improvement 
of  Rose  soils,  it  may  be  observed  that  light  soils  are  improved 
by  the  addition  of  something  of  a  heavier  texture  ;  this  is 
best  supplied  in  the  form  of  the  top-spit  from  heavy 
meadow-land.  Heavy  soils  are  greatly  improved  by  the 
admixture  of  road  scrapings  ("  road  sand  "),  wood-ashes,  or 
leaf-mould,  or  by  burning  the  heaviest  clay  and,  after  pass- 
ing the  burnt  clay  through  a  sieve  to  remove  the  biggest 
pieces,  mixing  up  the  finer  burnt  earth  with  soil. 

Finally,  it  must  be  understood  that  while  the  more 
elaborate  methods  of  preparing  the  ground  are  by  no 
means  essential  for  successful  garden  cultivation  of  Roses, 
a  thorough  working  of  the  ground  should  never  be  dis- 
pensed with,  and  that  more  important  than  the  quality  of 
the  manure  or  the  chemical  constituents  in  ordinary  soil  is 
a  good  mechanical  and  physical  condition  of  the  soil.^ 

1  See  the  conclusion  arrived  at  by  the  expert  appointed  in  1898  to  examine 
the  soil  from  the  most  successful  nurseries,  in  the  N.R.S.  Report  on  the  Cort' 
stitution  of  Rose  Soils,  p.  22. 


CHAPTER   V 

PLANTING   AND   TRANSPLANTING 

The  best  time  for  planting  or  moving  Roses  is  from  the 
middle  of  October  to  the  middle  of  November.  Plants  re- 
quired from  the  nurseries  should  therefore  be  ordered  in 
good  time  to  secure  their  arrival  before  the  winter  frosts. 

On  heavy  soils,  if  the  ground  is  very  wet,  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  have  a  little  rather  light  and  dry  soil  set  aside  to 
put  immediately  over  the  roots.  I  have  already  laid  stress 
on  the  importance  of  firm  planting,  and  the  light  soil  will 
prevent  the  clay  caking  too  solidly  round  the  roots. 

A  handful  of  bone-meal  may  be  dusted  into  the  hole 
intended  to  receive  the  plant,  in  order  to  give  it  a  start,  but 
no  other  manure  should  be  allowed  near  the  roots. 

In  transplanting  Roses  from  one  part  of  the  garden  to 
another,  the  first  thing  to  do  before  the  fork  is  put  into  the 
ground  is  to  take  off  all  the  leaves,  then  prepare  the  place 
where  it  is  to  be  planted,  and  finally  lift  the  plant  as  care- 
fully as  you  can.  Before  planting,  examine  the  roots  ;  all 
short  and  fibrous  roots  should  be  carefully  preserved,  but  if 
the  plant  is  found  to  have  made  long  roots  which  possess 
but  few  rootlets,  shorten  these  considerably,  and  allow 
them  to  make  a  fresh  start  in  the  new  quarters.  Unless  the 
tree  is  very  top-heavy  and  so  likely  to  be  much  disturbed 
by  winter  winds,  no  pruning  should  be  done  when  planting 


22      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

before  Christmas  ;  when,  however,  the  operation  is  deferred 
till  after  the  New  Year  the  tree  may  be  pruned  at  the  time 
of  planting.  It  is  sometimes  said  that  Roses  may  be  trans- 
planted at  any  time  with  sufficient  care,  and  certainly  if 
necessity  arise  it  is  quite  easy  to  transplant  at  any  time  from 
September  till  well  on  in  April.  Still  it  is  unwise  to  expect 
much  of  spring-planted  Roses  the  first  summer,  though 
they  will  often  do  well  in  late  summer  and  autumn.  After 
April,  unless  turned  out  of  pots,  there  is  considerable  risk 
in  moving  Roses.  If  it  must  be  done,  all  the  leaves  must 
be  removed  and  the  hole  to  receive  the  plant  well  filled  with 
water,  and  the  plant  moved  with  as  much  earth  as  may  be 
practicable.  Even  with  these  precautions  the  plant  suffers 
a  severe  check,  and  it  is  not  a  desirable  experiment  if  any 
other  course  is  open. 


CHAPTER   VI 

THE   ART   OF    PRUNING 

Can  I  convince  my  readers  that  pruning  is  an  art  ?  That 
even  as  a  mere  general  knowledge  of  the  rules  of  art  will 
not  make  an  artist,  so  my  readers,  though  they  commit 
to  heart  all  I  may  say  in  this  chapter  and  all  that  is  con- 
tained in  the  N.R.S.  Pruning  Book,  will  not  produce  the 
best  effect  unless  they  study  their  plants  ? 

In  the  spring  let  them  study  the  effect  of  last  year's 
pruning  before  they  attack  the  bushes.  In  August  let  them 
note  carefully  the  result  of  their  efforts  at  pruning  in  the 
spring,  and  let  them  review  the  plants  again  in  autumn 
before  they  enter  on  their  winter  rest.  Pruning  for  ex- 
hibition may  perhaps  be  thought  to  be  an  exception. 
Mr.  Mawley  once  suggested  that  for  this  purpose  many  an 
amateur  would  secure  results  as  good  as  those  he  usually 
attains,  if  he  drove  a  hay-cutting  machine  over  his  Rose 
beds  ;  but  even  in  pruning  for  exhibition  there  is  room  for 
much  exercise  of  judgment,  and  I  doubt  if  any  exhibitor 
would  voluntarily  adopt  the  suggestion. 

IMPLEMENTS 

There  are  those  who  proceed  to  their  pruning  with 
nothing  but  a  knife  in  their  pockets,  but  for  myself  I  prefer 


24      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

rather  more  accessories.  I  will  describe  the  contents  of  my 
pruning-basket. 

First  and  most  important  is  a  strong  pair  of  dogskin 
driving  gloves.  These  are  quite  sufficient  protection,  and 
not  so  clumsy  as  the  leathern  hedging-gloves  often  sold  for 
the  purpose.  It  is,  however,  convenient  to  have  something 
wherewith  to  protect  the  wrists,  and  for  this  purpose  I  have 
found  light  wristlets  made  of  Japanese  matting  very  con- 
venient. They  are  obtainable  at  most  horticultural  salesmen 
for  about  6d.  a  pair. 

A  light  leathern  cushion  or  kneeling  mat  is  also  desirable. 
I  find  an  ordinary  leathern  footstool  which  has  seen  better 
days  in  the  dining-room,  and  has  been  strengthened  by  the 
local  saddler,  and  provided  by  him  with  a  loop  or  handle  at 
one  end  so  that  it  can  be  slung  on  the  arm,  does  as  well  as 
anything  I  have  tried.  When  using  a  kneeling  cushion, 
I  do  not  get  on  with  the  work  so  fast  as  when  merely 
stooping  over  the  plants — it  is  less  easy  to  change  one's 
position  ;  but  if  there  are  many  drawf  Roses  to  be  pruned,  the 
use  of  the  cushion  affords  a  change  of  attitude,  and  perhaps 
the  work  is  done  more  carefully — it  is  not  always  desirable 
to  be  in  a  hurry  even  when  pruning. 

Some  small  tool  should  be  taken  for  clearing  away  the 
soil  from  the  collar  of  the  plants.  A  trowel  or  hand  weed- 
ing-fork  will  do,  but  I  have  found  Barr's  Daffodil  hoe 
the  most  convenient  tool  for  the  purpose.  It  is  about  12 
inches  long,  and  has  a  3-inch  blade  at  right  angles  to  the 
handle. 

Then  I  have  two  pruning-knives,  one  the  ordinary 
gardener's  knife  (the  French  serpette)  and  the  other  with  a 
finer  point  to  the  blade,  which  is  often  useful  in  getting  at  a 


PRUNING    TOOLS  25 

branch  when  close  to  another.  Two  pairs  of  secateurs  are 
desirable,  one  light  and  very  sharp  for  small  work,  and  the 
other  heavy  for  cutting  thick  branches  and  old  stumps.  I 
have  hitherto  carried  two  saws,  one  a  scimitar-shaped  saw 
with  the  teeth  set  backwards  so  that  the  cut  is  made  when 
pulling,  not  pushing,  the  other  an  ordinary  keyhole  saw, 
tapering  to  a  fine  point. 

Dr.  Williams  has,  however,  this  year  introduced  to  me  a 
delightful  little  saw  which  shuts  up  like  a  knife  into  a  round 
wooden  handle,  some  6  or  7  inches  long.  This  saw  is  not 
very  broad,  cuts  both  when  pushing  and  pulling,  and  it 
only  costs  about  is.  Since  I  have  had  it  I  have  scarcely 
used  the  larger  saws,  and  the  fact  of  being  able  to  shut  it  up 
and  carry  it  in  the  pocket  is  an  advantage. 

As  to  secateurs,  I  have  tried  nearly  every  make  I  could 
find.  Not  one  of  them  is  perfect,  but  on  the  whole  I 
find  I  rely  on  two  kinds,  and  the  first  is  a  make  in  which 
the  cutting  blade  has  a  sliding  action.  This  has  the  advan- 
tage of  being  easily  sharpened,  but  would,  I  think,  be  better 
with  a  double  cutting  edge.  Also,  the  screw  on  which  the 
blades  work  having  no  washers  and  going  directly  into  the 
under  blade,  tends  as  the  screw  gets  loose  with  wear  to 
move,  and  requires  tightening  up  too  often.  The  other  form 
is  that  known  as  Aubert's  pattern.  There  are  several 
slightly  different  forms  on  the  market.  They  have  two 
cutting  edges,  one  semicircular  and  the  other  in  a  double 
curve.  It  is  very  important  to  see  that  the  two  cutting 
blades  are  kept  sharp,  and  the  cutting  edges  accurately 
adjusted  to  each  other.  Even  when  new  it  is  by  no  means 
uncommon  to  find  the  adjustment  very  badly  done,  and  the 
steel  is  often  so  soft  that  it  gets  bent  out  of  shape  in  a  short 


26      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

time.  For  sharpening  secateurs  I  have  found  the  little 
book-shaped  stones  used  by  wood-carvers  for  sharpening 
their  tools  very  useful.  Tearing  of  the  wood  will  result 
either  if  the  secateurs  are  blunt  or  improperly  adjusted. 
They  should  readily  cut  thin  paper. 

Finally,  I  carry  in  my  basket  a  little  tin  of  paint,  or 
painter's  knotting.  This  is  applied  immediately  the  cut 
is  made,  with  the  double  object  of  preventing  bleeding 
of  the  sap  and  keeping  out  fungous  diseases.  I  think, 
on  the  whole,  paint  is  the  more  effective,  but  even  that 
is  not  proof  against  the  grub  of  the  stem-boring  sawfly, 
which  seems  to  eat  through  a  thick  coating  of  white- 
lead  paint  with  impunity. 

With  the  relative  advantages  of  knife  and  secateurs 
I  have  dealt  elsewhere.^  It  will  suffice  here  to  say  that 
while  the  cut  of  the  knife  is  no  doubt  better  in  many 
ways — for  instance,  it  crushes  and  injures  the  wood  less 
and  a  knife  is  easier  to  keep  sharp — yet  it  is  more  difficult 
to  use  well,  and  on  the  whole  the  secateurs  will  give 
as  good,  or  better,  results  and  save  considerable  time, 
provided  that  where  the  cut  branch  is  not  to  be  removed 
at  pruning  time  the  following  year,  but,  as  in  the  case 
of  large  bushes  and  standards,  is  to  form  part  of  the 
permanent  plant,  the  secateur  cut  should  be  followed  by 
a  smoothing  cut  with  the  knife,  no  projecting  wood 
being  left  above  the  bud  intended  to  grow.  I  usually 
do  this  later  when  searching  for  caterpillars  and  dis- 
budding. 

*  Rose  Annual,  19 lo. 


THE    OBJECT    OF    PRUNING      27 


THE  OBJECT  OF  PRUNING 

If  we  are  to  prune  with  the  head,  as  it  were,  and 
not  merely  Hke  the  mowing  machine  aforesaid,  it  is 
necessary  we  should  have  clear  ideas  of  the  reasons  for 
pruning  the  plants. 

1.  Pruning  for  Shape.— Probably  the  earliest  form  of 
pruning  was  undertaken  with  the  object  of  improving 
the  shape  of  the  plant,  and  it  is  still  of  great  import- 
ance in  the  garden.  It  was  probably  suggested  by  noting 
the  effect  of  the  removal  of  shoots  of  shrubs  by  animals 
in  feeding.  The  rounded  gorse  bushes  pruned  by  sheep, 
as  seen  on  the  Welsh  hills,  may  well  have  suggested 
the  earlier  forms  of  topiary  work.  Pruning  for  shape 
will  be  our  principal  object,  perhaps,  in  pruning  large 
specimen  bushes  and  standards  of  such  garden  Roses  as 
Griiss  an  Teplitz  or  summer  Roses  like  Thalia  or  the 
Garland,  where  we  have  ample  room  for  development. 

2.  Pruning  for  Space.— This  is  necessary  where  we 
have  a  number  of  bushes  growing  near  to  one  another. 
If  unrestricted  growth  were  allowed,  before  long  the 
stronger  growers  would  entirely  overpower  their  weaker 
neighbours  and  the  balance  of  the  group  would  then  be 
destroyed. 

3.  Pruning  to  Improve  the  Quality  of  the  Flowers.— 
The  object  of  the  plant  when  growing  wild  is  to  pro- 
duce as  many  seeds  as  possible,  which  it  can  do  by 
forming  a  large  number  of  small  flowers.  The  gardener 
requires  from  many  varieties  quality  rather  than  quantity, 
and    he   prunes   with    the    object    of    concentrating    the 


28      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

energies  of  the  plant  in  the  perfecting  of  the  flowers  he 
retains. 

4.  Pruning  to  encourage  Growth. — Nature  always 
tends  to  obtain  a  balance  between  the  root  system  of  the 
plant  and  the  aerial  or  leaf-bearing  portion.  The  larger  the 
root  system  the  larger  the  top.  By  removing  a  part  of  the 
top  this  balance  is  disturbed,  and  the  plant  tries  to  supply 
the  defect  by  a  vigorous  and  rapid  growth. 

5.  Pruning   to  renew   and  prolong  the   Life   of  the 

Plant Most  Roses,  if  left  to  grow  at  will,  produce  their 

young  growths  of  the  year  from  the  top  of  the  branches, 
the  old  stems  getting  harder  and  more  prone  to  attack 
from  disease  or  frost  every  year,  until  a  time  comes  when 
the  young  growths  lack  vigour  and  the  plant  ultimately 
dies.  If  we  notice  the  wild  Dog  Rose,  we  see  how  this 
difficulty  is  got  over  in  nature.  From  the  collar  of  the 
plant  just  below  the  surface  of  the  soil  are  produced  strong 
suckers,  which  grow  like  stolons  for  a  short  distance  under- 
ground, ultimately  coming  to  the  surface  and  forming  fresh 
plants,  roots  from  the  base  of  the  suckers  being  soon 
thrown  out.  In  cultivation  the  suckers  are  carefully  re- 
moved from  budded  plants,  so  the  Rose  is  not  allowed  to 
renew  its  youth  in  this  way.  But  by  close  pruning  the 
formation  of  young  and  vigorous  basal  shoots  is  encouraged 
and  the  plant  kept  healthy  and  thrifty. 

DIRECTIONS   FOR   PRUNING 

I  will  begin  by  laying  down  three  general  rules  appli- 
cable to  Roses  ; — 

(i.)  Before  beginning  to  prune,  ascertain  the  variety,  or 
at  least  the  class  of  Rose  you  intend  to  operate  on. 


PRUNING   OF   CLIMBING    ROSES     29 

(ii.)  All  Roses  that  have  been  purchased  and  planted,  or 
even  moved  from  another  part  of  the  garden  in  the  autumn, 
should  be  pruned  hard  the  following  spring. 

(iii.)  Roses  that  are  planted  before  Christmas  should  not 
be  pruned  till  the  following  spring,  while  those  planted  after 
Christmas  may  be  pruned  at  the  time  of  planting. 


CLIMBING  ROSES:   THE  RAMBLERS 

Pruning  should  be  finished  with  January,  except  where 
otherwise  mentioned.  The  Ayrshire  Roses,  such  as  Dundee 
Rambler,  and  the  Sempervirens  section,  which  includes 
F61icit6  Perpdtue,  are  all  of  strong,  vigorous  growth  and  re- 
quire practically  no  pruning,  but  should  be  trained  when  in 
a  position  where  this  is  necessary  and  thinned  out  sparingly. 
The  summer-flowering  Hybrid  Musks,  like  Mme.  d'Arblay 
arid  The  Garland  (sometimes  described  as  a  Hybrid  China), 
may  be  treated  in  the  same  manner.  The  Rambler  Roses, 
including  Multiflora  scandens.  Crimson  Rambler,  Blush 
Rambler,  Tea  Rambler,  and  others,  make  strong,  basal  shoots, 
and  from  these  in  the  following  year  the  flowers  are  pro- 
duced on  short  laterals.  In  addition  to  these  short  flower- 
ing laterals  a  certain  number  of  strong  growths  from  the 
old  wood  are  produced,  very  like  the  basal  shoots  in  appear- 
ance. If  the  basal  shoots  cover  sufficient  height  and  area, 
all  the  old  wood  which  has  flowered  may  be  cut  away  a1- 
any  time  after  flowering  is  over.  If,  however,  the  basal 
shoots  do  not  cover  the  required  area,  or  additional  height 
is  required,  then  a  suitable  number  of  the  strong  shoots 
produced  from  the  old  wood  may  be  left  in  addition  to  the 
basal  shoots,  the  old  wood  being  cut  back  to  the  point 


30      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

where  the  strong  shoot  starts.  It  is  important  to  remember 
that  in  these  Roses  the  old  wood  which  has  flowered  is  prac- 
tically useless  except  as  a  carrier  for  the  strong,  young  shoots 
it  produces,  and  must  not  be  expected  to  flower  well  again. 
This  selection  of  strong  shoots  from  old  wood  will  generally 
only  be  required  where  the  Rambler  is  grown  on  a  tall 
arch  or  pergola  or  trained  against  a  wall.  When  grown  as 
a  pillar  the  basal  shoots  will  generally  be  sufficient,  but  in 
order  to  assist  in  covering  the  base,  two  or  three  shoots  only 
need  be  taken  up  the  full  height  and  others  shortened  to 
different  heights. 

The  Boursault  Roses  (Amadis,  elegans,  gracilis  and 
inermis  Morlettii)  and  the  taller  Sweetbriars,  including  the 
Penzance  Briars  (except  Lord  and  Lady  Penzance) — together 
with  the  section  of  Wichuraiana  hereafter  mentioned,  may 
be  pruned  in  a  similar  manner.  They  are  strong  growers, 
throwing  up  vigorous  young  wood,  sometimes  from  the 
base,  but  more  often  from  the  strong  wood  of  former 
years. 

For  a  few  years  no  thinning  will  be  necessary,  but  after 
their  third  or  fourth  year  a  good  deal  of  the  older  wood 
will  have  to  be  removed,  and  the  process  repeated  at  the 
like  intervals.  Every  year  a  moderate  shortening  and  tying 
in  of  shoots,  branches,  and  laterals  where  they  are  not 
wanted  may  be  made,  and  when  necessary  to  furnish  the 
base.  When  the  plants  are  grown  as  a  hedge  instead  of  as 
climbers,  the  shoots  should  be  trained  slantwise,  the  lower 
ones  nearly  horizontally.  Every  few  years  the  hedge  is 
taken  down  in  the  autumn,  and  a  great  business  it  is  to  do 
this.  A  considerable  cutting  out  of  the  older  and  weaker 
wood  takes  place,  and  the  best  of  the  younger  shoots  are 


PRUNING   THE   WICHURAIANAS    31 

tied  in  slantwise  again.     These  Roses  will  make  a  hedge 
10  feet  high. 

Lord  and  Lady  Penzance  and  the  dwarfer  varieties  of 
Sweetbriar  do  not  make  satisfactory  climbers,  but  will 
make  a  hedge  4  feet  high. 


THE  WICHURAIANAS 

Here  we  have  four  distinct  types  :^ — (i)  The  type  of 
Dorothy  Perkins,  and  its  sports  Minnehaha,  Lady  Godiva, 
White  Dorothy,  Lady  Gay,  and  others,  which  make  numerous 
basal  shoots,  pushing  and  creeping  along  the  ground  unless 
trained  up.  These  will  supply  the  best  flowers  in  the  next 
year,  and  should  be  used  to  replace  the  wood  that  has 
flowered  during  the  summer  as  in  the  case  of  the  Multifloras, 
but  there  is  this  distinction  between  them,  that  in  the  group 
of  Wichuraianas  the  shoots  that  have  flowered  will  flower 
again  if  they  are  required  to  fill  up  gaps,  though  the  flowers 
will  not  be  so  good  as  those  from  the  young  shoots. 
Where  two-year-old  wood  is  to  be  left,  the  short  laterals 
that  have  flowered  should  be  cut  back  to  two  or  three  eyes 
of  the  main  stem. 

(2)  Wichuraianas  of  the  type  of  Alberic  Barbier,  Francois 
Foucard,  Gardenia,  Jersey  Beauty,  and  R6n6  Andr^.  These 
do  not  make  basal  shoots  to  anything  like  the  same  extent 
as  the  Dorothy  Perkins  section,  the  young  shoots  being  to  a 
large  extent  produced  from  the  wood  of  former  years.  The 
method  of  pruning,  therefore,  will  be  to  shorten  in  the 
laterals  that  have  flowered  to  two  or  three  eyes  and  preserve 

^  For  this  method  of  classifying  this  section  of  Roses  I  am  indebted  to 
Dr.  A.  H.  Williams,  who  first  suggested  it  to  me. 


32      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

the  strong  young  growth,  cutting  out  older  wood  to  make 
room  for  it  where  necessary.  It  is  well  to  take  down  the 
plants  and  thoroughly  overhaul  them  every  three  or  four 
years.  They  can  generally  be  induced  to  produce  basal 
shoots  by  laying  the  plants  along  the  ground  in  spring 
until  growth  is  well  started. 

(3)  Wichuraianas  of  a  more  bush-like  habit,  such  as 
Gerbe  Rose,  and  perhaps  Diabolo.  These,  though  vigorous 
m  growth,  are  not  so  well  adapted  for  climbers,  and  are 
best  treated  as  free  bushes  or  trained  into  a  hedge.  The 
directions  for  pruning  will  be  the  same  as  those  for  the 
Conrad  F.  Meyer  section  of  the  Rugosas.^ 

(4)  Wichuraianas  of  the  dwarf,  perpetual-flowering  kinds 
mtroduced  by  Mr.  G.  Paul  as  Cheshunt  Roses,  Seashell,  Ice- 
berg, and  the  like.  These  may  be  treated  like  the  dwarf 
Polyanthas  and  need  no  pruning,  except  the  removal  of 
the  flower-stalks  and  dead  wood.  This  may  be  done  in 
April. 

At  the  risk  of  repeating  myself,  I  add  that  for  more  than 
one  reason  the  pruning  of  the  foregoing  Roses  may  be 
taken  in  hand  as  soon  as  flowering  is  over  for  the  year,  and 
must  be  completed  before  the  end  of  January. 

THE  NOISETTES 

The  Noisettes  should  be  pruned  in  April.  They  are 
a  race  of  climbing  or  semi-climbing  habit,  and  may  be 
divided  into  two  groups  —  (i)  The  strong  growers,  like 
climbing  Aim^e  Vibert  and  Mar^chal  Niel,  and  (2)  those 
of  moderate  growth,  such  as  William  Allen  Richardson, 
L' Ideal,  and  Mme.  Alfred  Carriere.  Even  the  moderate 
'  Pp.  35,  36. 


PRUNING    NOISETTES  33 

growers,  however,  when  trained  to  walls,  fences,  or  pillars, 
may  be  built  up  to  a  considerable  size. 

The  two  sections  require  no  special  difference  in  prun- 
ing ;  they  produce  their  flowers  on  short  laterals  from  the 
growths  of  the  previous  year.  It  is,  therefore,  useless  to 
prune  them  hard,  as  this  would  produce  vigorous  growth, 
but  not  flowers  till  the  following  year.  It  is  only  in  the 
first  year  after  planting  that  this  is  to  be  done  and  the 
flowers  sacrificed.  Afterwards  the  object  is  to  preserve  as 
much  of  the  good  wood  of  the  previous  summer  as  possible, 
removing  older  wood,  except  where  it  is  required  for  one 
of  two  purposes.  The  first  is  when  the  old  wood  is  wanted 
to  carry  good,  young  shoots  proceeding  from  it.  Where 
this  is  the  case,  all  that  part  of  the  older  stem  beyond  the 
point  of  origin  of  the  younger  shoot  may  be  cut  away. 
The  second  case  is  when  a  portion  of  the  older  wood  is 
required  on  wall  or  fence  to  fill  a  gap.  Here  so  much  as 
is  necessary  may  be  kept,  but  the  laterals  which  carried 
the  flowers  of  the  previous  summer  are  cut  back  to  one  or 
two  eyes. 

A  few  of  the  Noisettes  are  tender.  Lamarque,  Mar^chal 
Niel,  and  Fortune's  Yellow  are  all  really  best  when  grown 
under  glass — at  least  anywhere  north  of  London.  With 
the  exception  of  Fortune's  Yellow,  which  only  flowers  once, 
they  are  all  good  autumnal  bloomers. 

Aimee  Vibert,  Alister  Stella  Gray,  and  Mme.  Alfred 
Carriere  are  hardy,  and  seldom  give  much  difficulty,  but 
in  pruning  most  of^  the  other  Noisettes  a  careful  search 
should  be  made  at  pruning  time  for  bad  wood.  Unsound 
wood,  whether  affected  by  frost  or  fungus,  is  useless,  and 
must  be  removed  and  burnt  forthwith. 

C 


34      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

BUSH  ROSES 

Summer-Flowering  Roses. — These  all  make  their  flower- 
ing wood  in  the  previous  summer.  By  pruning  young 
wood  we  are  cutting  off  flowers,  and  therefore  the  rule  for 
pruning  is  very  simple.  Let  them  alone  till  they  become 
too  thick,  then  thin  out.  Do  not  cut  back  Damask 
Roses,  e.g.  Lady  Curzon,  Crimson  Damask,  Mrs.  O.  G. 
Orpen,  Tuscany,  York  and  Lancaster,  Gallica  (Rosa  Mundi), 
nor  Rosa  alba  nor  Madame  Plantier.  Thin  out  where 
crowded.  This  is  all  that  is  necessary,  but  the  tips  may 
be  shortened  a  very  little  if  it  is  wished.  These  Roses  vary 
in  habit,  and  will  give  bushes  from  3  to  6  feet. 

Provence  Roses  and  the  Mosses  should  be  well  thinned 
out  in  September,  and  in  the  spring  may  be  shortened  to 
half  their  length,  but  not  more.  This  treatment  I  find  best 
even  for  the  Moss  Roses  of  a  perpetual  character. 

The  Austrian  Briars  and  many  of  the  species  flower, 
not  on  the  laterals,  but  on  short  growths  from  them — sub- 
laterals.  Here,  therefore,  no  pruning  is  necessary  ;  on  the 
contrary,  everything  should  be  done  to  encourage  the  for- 
mation of  laterals.  This  can  be  done  to  some  extent  by 
bending  or  pegging  down  the  long  growths  so  as  to  induce 
the  lower  buds  to  start  into  growth.  When  these  have 
started,  the  stems  may  be  allowed  to  rise  again  if  desired. 
Thinning  out  of  three-year-old  wood  is  allowable,  and 
should  be  practised  wherever  the  growths  are  crowded. 
Where  pruning  has  to  be  done  it  should  be  carried  out 
immediately  after  flowering. 

One  or  two  species  or  hybrids  of  species  require  special 
treatment. 


PRUNING    PERPETUAL    ROSES     35 

Nitida  should  have  the  old  growth  removed  annually 
and  the  young  shoots  pegged  down.  The  Banksians  should 
have  no  pruning  for  the  first  three  years  after  planting  ;  after- 
wards, old  stems  may  be  cut  out  from  time  to  time  to  obtain 
new  growth  from  the  base.  Una  should  have  the  laterals 
left  a  foot  long.     Sinica  Anemone  only  requires  training. 

PERPETUAL  ROSES 

The  Rugosas. — These  should  be  pruned  in  February. 
The  usual  direction  given  is  to  "go  as  you  please,"  i.e. 
whether  you  prune  severely  or  lightly  does  not  much  matter. 
But  this  is  not  quite  correct,  for  we  have  now  three  distinct 
types  of  Rugosa  Roses  requiring  different  consideration  in 
pruning. 

First,  there  is  the  old-fashioned  Rugosa,  such  as  Calo- 
carpa,  Delicata,  and  Blanc  Double  de  Coubert,  which  will 
give  us  the  well-known  red  berries  in  autumn.  We  may 
either  prune  them  hard  back  or  devote  most  of  our  attention 
to  thinning  and  tying,  but  we  shall  get  very  different  results 
according  to  the  method  we  employ.  The  system  of  hard 
pruning  will  give  us  flowers,  but  they  will  be  late,  and  one 
of  the  chief  points  of  the  Rugosa  is  its  earliness  ;  so,  unless 
we  do  not  want  early  flowers  and  are  cramped  for  space,  it 
is  best  to  make  use  of  the  second  method  and  thin  out  the 
old  wood,  confining  the  pruning,  properly  so  called,  to  such 
slight  shortening  of  the  shoots  as  the  plant  may  require 
for  the  sake  of  shapeliness. 

The  second  group  contains  Conrad  F.  Meyer,  Mme. 
Lucienne  Willeminot,  Nova  Zembla,  Madame  Ancelot,  and 
Roses  of  a  similar  type,  great  strong  growers  with  very 
thorny  stems.     These  do  not  give  us  any  choice  of  method, 


36      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

for  they  should  have  very  Httle  pruning  at  all.  We  should 
confine  our  operations  to  merely  removing  damaged  wood 
and  thinning  out  that  of  two  years  and  upwards.  When, 
however,  it  is  possible  to  do  so,  some  at  least  of  the 
branches  should  be  bent  and  tied  down,  either  permanently 
or  till  the  buds  towards  the  base  have  started.  The  fault 
of  the  Roses  in  this  group  is  that  they  are  not  naturally 
very  free-flowering,  so  everything  should  be  done  to  induce 
them  to  shoot  from  the  whole  length  of  the  stem,  otherwise 
the  crop  of  flowers  will  be  small.  So  far  as  I  can  judge, 
the  new  yellow  Rugosa  "  Daniel  Leseuer,"  which  seems  very 
nearly  related  to  the  Dijon  Teas,  should  be  treated  in  the 
same  way  as  those  of  this  group. 

The  third  group  is  a  small  one,  not,  perhaps,  very 
generally  grown  as  yet,  and  of  less  vigour  than  either  of 
the  preceding  groups.  Probably  its  members  contain  a 
greater  proportion  of  Tea  Rose  blood  in  their  composition. 
With  regard  to  these,  I  think  the  nearer  they  approach  in 
character  to  the  Tea  or  Hybrid-Tea  the  harder  they  should 
be  pruned. 

The  Bourbons. — These  may  be  pruned  any  time  in 
March.  Not  many  of  these  are  now  much  grown  ;  it  will 
be  enough  to  mention  the  best — Hermosa,  Marie  Pare, 
Mme.  Isaac  Pereire,  Mrs.  Paul,  Souvenir  de  la  Malmaison, 
perhaps  Boule  de  Neige  and  the  hybrid  Bourbon,  Zephirine 
Drouhin.  For  the  most  part  they  flower  on  laterals  pro- 
duced from  the  old  wood.  Thinning,  therefore,  should  be 
the  rule  rather  than  pruning.  There  should  be  no  hard 
pruning,  but  just  enough  to  keep  the  plant  in  shape. 

Hybrid  Perpetuals.— When  we  come  to  deal  with  the 
hybrid    perpetuals,   we   are    met   at    the   outset    with    two 


PRUNING  HYBRID  PERPETUALS     37 

distinct  schools,  which  may  be  said  to  be  headed  re- 
spectively by  our  two  most  successful  amateur  exhibitors. 
They  may  conveniently  be  called  the  early  and  late  schools. 
The  followers  of  the  early  school  begin  to  prune  in  Feb- 
ruary, finish  early  in  March,  and  cut  right  back  to  one 
or  two  eyes,  with  a  view  to  encourage  the  plant  to  break 
from  dormant  buds  at  the  junction  of  the  Rose  with  the 
stock,  though  a  few  varieties,  such  as  Charles  Lefebvre,  are 
left  with  somewhat  longer  stems.  This  school  of  rosarians 
holds  that  early  pruning  is  preferable  on  four  grounds  :  (i) 
The  buds  which  are  left  to  develop  are  in  a  very  backward 
condition  and  are  not  suddenly  forced  into  growth,  but 
permitted  by  the  early  period  at  which  they  are  called  on 
to  take  the  sap  from  the  roots  to  develop  slowly  and 
gradually,  and  it  is  thought  they  are  thereby  able  to  pro- 
duce better-shaped  flowers  than  if  pruning  is  deferred  till 
the  sap  is  in  full  flow  ;  for,  if  this  course  were  pursued, 
these  backward  buds  would  suddenly  be  called  upon  to 
make  use  of  the  full  flow  of  the  spring  sap  and  be  liable 
to  produce  malformed  flowers.  (2)  The  plants  suffer  less 
from  bleeding.  (3)  The  operator  has  a  greater  choice  of 
weather.  (4)  The  severe  pruning  and  constant  supply  of 
young  wood  keep  the  plants  healthy. 

The  late  school,  on  the  other  hand,  prefers  to  leave  prun- 
ing of  the  H.P.'s  till  the  third  week  in  March,  and  does  not 
advise  so  severe  a  pruning  even  for  exhibition  Roses,  leav- 
ing from  2  inches  to  6  inches  of  old  wood,  say  from  three 
to  five  buds,  or  even  more  in  the  case  of  the  strong-growing 
varieties,  such  as  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh  or  Hugh  Dickson. 
The  advocates  of  late  pruning  think  that  by  this  practice 
they  run  less  risk  from  frost,  which  may  injure  the  buds  as 


38      PRESENT-DAY   GARDENING 

they  are  starting  to  grow,  and  cause  them  to  produce  mal- 
formed flowers  ;  further,  that  the  new  growth  "  gets  away  " 
quicker,  and  that  rapid  development  is  better  than  slow 
growth. 

The  views  of  these  two  schools  of  the  art  of  pruning 
may  be  to  some  extent  reconciled  if  we  observe  the  rule 
"  the  later  the  longer,"  which  means  that  the  later  in  the 
year  the  pruning  is  carried  out  the  less  severe  it  should  be. 

One  rather  obvious  caution  should  be  observed,  but  ex- 
perience has  shown  that  it  is  necessary  to  mention  it,  and 
that  is,  the  pruner  must  be  sure  that  the  shoots  he  leaves 
in  thinning  out  the  old  wood  are  Rose  shoots,  and  not 
suckers  from  the  Briar  stock.  I  have  seen  the  whole  of 
the  Rose  cut  away  and  some  magnificent  strong  Briar 
suckers  carefully  retained  and  pruned  back  to  the  orthodox 
three  eyes. 

Where  the  plants  are  not  required  to  produce  flowers 
for  exhibition  or  for  specimen  vases,  but  are  grown  for  the 
decoration  of  the  garden,  it  is  usual  to  find  a  direction  to 
prune  more  lightly,  some  advising  that  a  foot  or  more  of 
last  year's  wood  be  left  intact.  This  may  be  necessary 
where  the  object  in  view  is  to  form  a  specimen  bush,  but 
I  think  the  hybrid  perpetual  is  hardly  the  most  suitable 
Rose  to  grow  for  that  purpose,  and  in  spite  of  the  great 
preponderance  of  authority  in  favour  of  this  view,  I  hold 
the  method  of  treatment  to  be  wrong,  or  at  least — un- 
desirable. Where  a  large  number  of  flowers  from  the 
individual  plants  is  required,  resort  should  be  had  to 
"  psggi'ig  down."  This  is  an  admirable  method  of  growing 
the  stronger  varieties  of  the  H.P.'s.  From  two  to  four  of 
the  longest  and  best  ripened  shoots  of  the  previous  year 


PRUNING    HYBRID    TEAS         39 

are  carefully  bent  downwards,  and  secured  in  a  horizontal 
position  by  pegs  or,  what  is  sometimes  more  convenient,  by 
tying  them  to  long  pieces  of  strong  telegraph  wire  inserted 
in  the  ground.  They  can  either  be  left  their  whole  length 
or  shortened  somewhat  to  suit  the  space  they  are  desired  to 
cover.  These  shoots  will  flower  up  their  whole  length,  and 
the  plant  will  throw  up  strong  shoots  from  the  base.  In 
the  following  spring  the  shoots  that  have  flowered  are  cut 
right  away,  and  the  requisite  number  of  young  shoots  bent 
down  to  take  their  places.  By  this  method  we  secure  a 
result  similar  to  that  aimed  at  in  close  pruning,  namely,  the 
renewal  of  the  life  of  the  plant  by  the  production  of  strong 
shoots  from  the  base,  and  the  annual  removal  of  all  the 
old  wood. 

One  matter  that  has  of  late  years  acquired  some  import- 
ance must  be  mentioned,  and  that  is  the  necessity  to 
examine  carefully  the  cuts  made  in  last  year's  pruning, 
whether  it  be  left  or  cut  away.  If  a  little  hole  is  found  in 
the  stem,  it  shows  that  the  larvae  of  a  sawfly  have  found  a 
winter  home  there,  and  either  the  shoot  should  be  cut  off 
and  burnt  or  the  stem  slit  down  till  the  grub  is  found  and 
destroyed.  These  sawflies  have  recently  become  a  serious 
nuisance  to  the  Rose-grower. 


THE  HYBRID  TEAS 

Prune  about  the  middle  of  March.  The  varieties  are 
very  numerous.  First,  there  are  climbing  and  pillar  Roses, 
like  Carmine  Pillar  and  climbing  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant ;  next 
Roses  to  make  big  bushes,  such,  for  instance,  as  GrGss  an 
Teplitz,  Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemberg,  and  Gustave   Regis  ; 


40      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

then  tall  upright  growers  Hke  Pharisaer  and  Mrs.  E.  G.  Hill, 
and  branching,  symmetrical  bushes  of  the  Caroline  Testout 
type.  Again,  we  find  Roses  which  perversely  try  to  grow  a 
lob-sided  panicle,  proceeding  from  a  single  strong  shoot, 
such  as  Joseph  Hill  and  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay  ;  and  typical 
bedding  Roses  like  Dr.  J.  Campbell  Hall.  Further,  there 
are  Roses,  like  Ecarlate,  which  nearly  approach  the  Chinas, 
and  others  very  close  to  the  H.P.'s,  of  which  I  will  take 
as  examples  John  Ruskin  and  Gladys  Harkness.  We  have 
also  the  singles.  Simplicity,  Irish  Elegance,  and  several 
others  with  the  prefix  "  Irish,"  and  the  semi-double  Theresa  ; 
Bessie  Brown,  a  strong-growing  exhibition  Rose,  is  another 
type.  Beside  these,  there  are  Roses  of  the  spreading, 
branching  habit  of  the  Lyons  Rose  ;  and  Roses  like  Mildred 
Grant,  of  short,  stumpy,  upright  growth,  usually  with  a 
single  flower  on  the  top. 

There  is  no  class  of  Rose  in  the  treatment  of  which 
my  first  rule  for  pruning — "  Never  prune  until  you  know 
the  kind  of  Rose  you  are  dealing  with  " — is  of  so  much 
importance  as  in  the  case  of  Hybrid  Teas.  I  will  begin 
at  the  end  of  my  list  and  work  backwards.  With  Mildred 
Grant  there  is  no  difficulty  ;  we  simply  take  out  the  dead 
wood,  of  which  there  is  generally  a  certain  amount,  and 
cut  the  live  stems  to  the  ground  ;  if  we  leave  one  or  two 
buds  it  will  be  sufficient.  Marquise  Litta  and  White  Lady 
are  other  Roses  requiring  the  like  treatment.  It  follows, 
I  think,  that  these  Roses  may  be  planted  together  closely  ; 
a  foot  apart  will  be  ample.  Somewhat  similar  will  be  the 
pruning  of  the  Roses  that  approach  the  H.P.  type  ;  but, 
if  desired,  John  Ruskin,  which  is  a  strong  grower,  may  be 
tried  pegged  down.     Ecarlate,  and   Roses   of   a   character 


PLATE   III 

MRS.   JOHN   LAING   (H.P.) 

A  most  useful  Rose.  The  plant  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  the  flower 
fragrant.  The  colour  shown  in  the  flower  illustrated  is  that  of  a 
shaded  flower,  and  less  bright  than  the  best. 


PRUNING    BEDDING    ROSES      43 

tending  towards  the  Chinas,  may  be  pruned  either  hard 
or  Hghtly.  The  latter  course  is  generally  advised,  and  at 
least  for  a  few  years  they  do  very  well  in  the  borders  with 
very  little  pruning  after  the  first  year  ;  but  in  this  case  care 
must  be  taken  to  provide  for  the  production  of  new  wood 
by  a  system  of  thinning  and  cutting  back  some  of  the 
growths,  or  in  a  few  years  the  old  stems  become  hard  and 
unmanageable.  I  think  that  these  Roses  should  be  pruned 
rather  later  than  most  Hybrid  Teas,  and  both  hard  and 
long  pruning  employed,  of  course,  on  different  plants. 
When  Ecarlate  and  Marquise  de  Salisbury  are  in  beds,  I 
like  to  shear  the  outer  plants  right  down,  pruning  those 
in  the  centre  rather  less  severely.  The  last  remarks  will 
indicate  the  way  to  treat  the  bedding  varieties,  such  as 
Dr.  J.  C.  Hall,  Mme.  Ravary,  Duchess  of  Wellington, 
Richmond,  and  Augustine  Guinoisseau,  at  least  when  they 
are  used  in  beds.  The  amount  of  pruning  they  receive 
should  be  dependent  on  their  position  in  the  bed.  There 
are  some  Hybrid  Teas,  of  which  Lady  Ashtown  is  an 
example,  which  make  beautiful  bedding  Roses  when  their 
flowers  are  not  grown  too  large,  but  when  grown  as 
exhibition  Roses  they  hang  their  heads  in  a  manner  alto- 
gether pitiable  and  useless  in  the  garden.  I  prefer  to 
correct  the  tendency,  however,  when  they  are  grown  as 
bedding  Roses,  not  by  less  severe  pruning,  but  by  disbud- 
ding with  discretion,  which  is  quite  effectual,  and  produces 
a  better  plant  for  the  position  in  which  it  is  being  grown. 

To  produce  a  good  effect  in  the  garden  the  singles  must 
be  grown  into  fair-sized  bushes,  and  so  long  as  they  are 
doing  well  the  pruning  may  be  confined  to  the  removal 
of  misplaced  and  unripened  shoots,  together  with  a  little 


44      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

shortening  of  the  summer  growth.  The  effect  of  the  spring 
pruning  should  be  carefully  noted  in  August,  and  should 
afford  the  best  guide  to  the  treatment  to  be  adopted  in 
the  following  spring  :  an  observation  that  applies  to  all 
Roses  grown  as  large  bushes.  When  the  growth  has  not 
been  satisfactory,  it  may  sometimes  be  necessary  to  cut 
back  somewhat  severely  in  order  to  obtain  stronger  growth 
even  at  some  sacrifice  in  the  current  year. 

The  section  of  the  Hybrid  Teas  which  is  one  of  the 
most  difficult  to  treat  satisfactorily  in  pruning  contains 
those  Roses  which,  in  their  second  growth,  tend  to  throw 
up  a  single  strong  shoot  in  the  form  of  a  panicle  growing 
out  of  one  side  of  the  plant.  The  Rose  usually  behaves 
well  in  the  summer,  or  first  blooming,  but  after  this  a  stout 
shoot  makes  its  appearance,  and  seems  to  absorb  all  the 
growing  energy  of  the  plant.  Joseph  Hill,  Mme.  M^lanie 
Soupert,  and  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay  are  examples  of  this  type, 
but  there  are  several  others.  If  some  measures  are  not 
taken  to  counteract  this  tendency  the  plants  get  more  and 
more  lop-sided.  The  first  two  Roses  are  often  grown  for 
exhibition,  and  where  this  is  the  case  we  may  perhaps  only 
be  concerned  to  cut  hard  back  to  a  promising  bud;  but 
where  the  appearance  in  the  garden  is  the  chief  considera- 
tion, some  other  method  should  be  tried.  In  the  case  of 
Mme.  Abel  Chatenay  something  may  be  done  by  partially 
pegging  or  tying  down  the  stems  left  after  pruning  to  induce 
growth  from  the  base  of  the  plant,  but  the  growth  of  the 
other  two,  particularly  of  Joseph  Hill,  is  usually  too  stiff  for 
this  mode  of  procedure.  Mons.  Viviand  Morel  recommends 
that  when  the  stout  shoot  is  seen  to  be  starting  in  the 
summer  it  be  pinched  back  to  within  2  or  3  inches  of  the 


PRUNING    UPRIGHT    GROWERS     45 

stem,  when,  instead  of  a  single  panicle,  a  fair  number  of 
flowers  on  moderately  long  stalks  is  obtained.  This  is 
often  successful,  but  it  is  not  very  easy  to  catch  the  stout 
shoots  at  the  right  moment.  Short  of  this,  the  only  thing 
to  do  is  to  encourage  the  plant  to  get  back  to  a  symmetrical 
attitude  by  pruning  to  the  buds  most  likely  to  effect  this, 
and  afterwards  by  stopping  buds  which  are  making  their 
way  in  the  wrong  direction. 

Roses  of  the  vigorous  branching  habit  of  Caroline 
Testout  and  the  tall,  upright  growers  like  Pharisaer  may  be 
considered  together.  In  both  cases  much  will  depend  on 
the  amount  of  room  available  and  the  character  of  the  bush 
we  wish  to  obtain.  By  leaving  the  best  shoots  about  a  foot 
long  the  second  season,  and  afterwards  priming  back  to 
three  or  more  eyes  of  the  growth  of  the  previous  year, 
cutting  to  a  bud  pointing  outwards  and  clearing  the  centre 
of  the  plant,  fine  specimen  bushes  may  be  built  up  which 
will  generally  last  for  many  years.  It  is  quite  worth  while 
growing  some  Roses  in  this  way  for  the  effect  they  produce 
in  the  garden,  but  there  will  often  come  a  time  when  the 
summer  growth  begins  to  get  less  satisfactory,  and,  indeed, 
may  almost  cease,  and  an  examination  of  the  stem  near  the 
ground  will  probably  show  an  unsatisfactory  condition  of 
the  bark.  Then  there  is  nothing  for  it  but  to  dig  up  the 
plant  and  begin  again  with  a  young  one. 

These  Roses,  particularly  the  upright  growers,  may  also 
be  treated  with  good  effect  by  the  severe  method  of  pruning 
practised  with  the  H.P.'s,  and  this  is  perhaps  best,  for  they 
are  then  apparently  less  liable  to  suffer  from  the  evil  I  have 
described.  Hard  pruning  will,  of  course,  be  adopted  where 
exhibition  flowers  only  are  desired. 


46      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

Now  for  the  big  bushes.  There  are  some  Hybrid  Teas 
that  seem  only  to  look  and  flower  their  best  when  grown  as 
big,  free  bushes.  This  applies  to  Griiss  an  Teplitz,  Gustave 
Regis,  and  (except  when  it  is  grown  as  a  climber)  to  Reine 
Olga  de  Wurtemberg,  and  they  are  well  worth  growing  in 
this  fashion.  Here  pruning  may  for  the  most  part  be  con- 
fined to  a  little  thinning  and  snipping  back  of  old  flower- 
stalks.  However,  before  the  plants  get  old  and  the  stems 
too  hard  and  dry,  whenever  good  young  shoots  are  seen 
proceeding  from  anywhere  near  the  base,  it  is  well  to  cut 
one  at  least  of  the  old  stems  right  back  to  these  and  so 
renew  the  vigour  of  the  plant. 

Lastly  come  the  climbing  and  pillar  varieties  :  three  of 
the  most  beautiful  of  these.  Climbing  Mrs.  Grant,  Climbing 
Papa  Gontier,  and  Frangois  Crousse,  are  at  their  best  on  a 
wall,  but  when  not  so  grown  it  is  of  the  first  importance  to 
remember  that  these  Roses  and,  in  fact,  all  the  Hybrid  Teas 
(and  there  are  at  least  a  dozen  first-class  Roses  for  the 
purpose  in  this  section)  tend  to  become  leggy  and  bare  at 
the  base  when  tied  up  to  a  post.  Steps  must  therefore  be 
taken  to  prevent  this.  The  most  effectual  thing  to  do  is  to 
untie  the  stems  at  pruning  time  and  bend  them  down  as 
near  the  ground  as  can  be  done  without  breaking  them, 
leaving  them  in  this  position  till  the  buds  at  the  base  have 
started  into  growth,  when  they  can  be  retied  to  the  pillar. 
Another  plan  when  there  are  enough  stems  is  to  cut  them 
to  different  heights.  Thus  if  you  have  eight  stems,  cut 
two  to  within  a  few  inches  of  the  ground,  and  the  rest  at 
distances  a  foot  apart,  only  allowing  one  to  reach  the  top 
of  the  pillar.  It  is  often  well  to  combine  both  these  plans 
ot  treatment. 


PRUNING    CHINA    ROSES         47 

The  pruning  of  H.T.'s  on  wall,  arch,  and  trellis  will  be 
confined  to  taking  out  shoots  where  they  are  not  wanted, 
and  cutting  out  old  stems  whenever  there  is  a  chance  of 
substituting  young  growths  or  allowing  them  to  develop. 
Walls  and  the  fan-like  training  given  to  plants  growing  on 
them  afford  such  glorious  opportunities  for  ripening  the 
wood,  that  it  can  be  left  longer  than  in  any  other  method 
of  garden  treatment,  and  we  do  not  usually  find  ourselves 
in  the  difficulty  with  which  we  are  faced  in  dealing  with 
Roses  on  pillars. 


THE  CHINA  ROSES 

The  old  pink  and  taller  varieties  may  be  pruned  early  in 
March,  the  weaker  growing  kinds  in  April. 

For  pruning  purposes  the  China  Roses  should  be  dealt 
with  rather  in  the  way  our  friends  the  officers  of  the  Royal 
Navy  treat  their  facial  adornment.  It  is  a  case  of  "all  or 
none."  By  cutting  these  Roses  down  to  the  ground  we  get 
a  fine  growth,  a  fair  summer  flowering,  and  a  grand  display 
in  autumn.  However,  it  is  worth  while  treating  a  certain 
number  of  them  with  practically  no  pruning  beyond  the 
removal  of  dead  wood  and  cutting  off  the  old  flower-stems. 
The  unpruned  Chinas  will  begin  to  flower  in  May  or  the 
beginning  of  June,  will  give  a  mass  of  flowers  in  the  early 
summer,  and  will  also  go  on  flowering  late.  Many  of  the 
taller  Chinas,  especially  the  old  Pink  China  or  Blush 
monthly  Rose  and  Laurette  Messimy,  if  allowed  to  grow 
will  make  fine,  big  bushes,  and  all  gardens  should  have  a 
few  of  these  varieties.  This  behaviour  must  not,  however, 
be  expected  from  those  Chinas  with  a  large  proportion  of 


48      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

R.  semperflorens  blood  in  them,  such  as  Fabvier.  On  the 
other  hand,  these  small-growing  Chinas,  when  pruned  hard, 
make  some  of  the  very  best  of  bedding  Roses.  The  old 
Pink  China  does  well  as  a  dwarf  hedge,  even  when  clipped 
with  a  pair  of  hedge  shears. 

TEA-SCENTED  ROSES 

Pruning  should  be  done  in  April.  The  continuity  of 
blossom  in  the  Tea  Rose  is  attained  through  the  eagerness 
of  the  buds,  which  start  into  growth  down  the  stem  before 
the  flowers  at  the  top  have  fallen.  In  consequence  of  this, 
when  we  come  to  prune  we  find,  as  a  rule,  two  things  before 
us  :  first,  that  our  plant  is  much  branched,  carrying  a  lot  of 
rather  weak  and  spindly  wood  ;  and  secondly,  a  number  of 
unripe  growths,  which  are  soft  and  sappy  and,  oftener  than 
not,  somewhat  injured  by  frost.  Perhaps  it  is  on  this 
account  that  many  amateurs,  who  have  attained  a  fair 
degree  of  skill  in  pruning  Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  Hybrid 
Teas,  feel  less  confidence  as  to  how  they  should  proceed 
when  confronted  with  a  well-grown  Tea  Rose.  Teas  will 
break  and  flower  well  when  little  pruning  has  been  done,  if 
the  branches  left  have  been  uninjured  by  frost,  and  there  is 
not  quite  so  much  danger  in  allowing  old  wood  to  remain 
on  Teas  as  there  is  in  the  case  of  the  Hybrid  Teas.  Indeed, 
so  readily  are  they  excited,  that  the  buds  of  the  old  wood,  if 
the  latter  is  untouched  by  frost,  will  generally  start  into 
growth  should  necessity  arise,  and  therefore,  if  in  any  year 
the  stem  has  been  injured,  or  its  retention  seems  undesirable, 
it  is  fairly  safe  to  cut  back  even  into  the  old  wood.  It 
has  been  said  that  we  often  find  a  good  iiower  of  a  Tea 


PRUNING    TEA    ROSES  49 

Rose  on  a  rather  spindly  stem,  and  to  some  extent  this 
is  true,  but  I  think  it  must  always  be  a  stem  of  the 
current  year's  growth  ;  the  spindly  stem  of  last  year  will 
give  nothing  worth  having,  and  as  for  the  unripe  and 
sappy  wood,  it  is  no  good  at  all.  The  first  thing  to  do  is  to 
remove  both. 

Modern  Tea  Roses  may  be  roughly  divided  into  six 
classes  : — (i)  Those  of  spreading  and  very  branching  habit, 
of  which  Marie  Van  Houtte  is  a  typical  example  ;  (2)  Roses 
like  the  Maman  Cochet  group,  which  tend  to  produce 
strong  young  shoots  from  the  base,  upright  at  first,  and 
afterwards  bending  over  ;  (3)  Roses  with  much  China  blood 
in  them,  such  as  Princess  de  Sagan  ;  (4)  others  which  are 
very  near  the  Hybrid  Teas,  e.g.  Mrs.  Myles  Kennedy  and 
Harry  Kirk ;  (5)  the  Dijon  Teas ;  and  (6)  Climbing  or 
Pillar  Roses  such  as  Papillon. 

(i)  The  Marie  Van  Houtte  group  is  probably  the 
largest,  including  as  it  does  most  of  the  best  decorative 
and  bedding  Teas  such  as  Madame  Antoine  Mari  or 
Paula,  as  well  as  many  that  are  largely  used  for  exhibi- 
tion. This  group  gives  us  the  greatest  choice  of  method. 
After  removing  the  weak  spray  and  sappy  growths,  and 
also  any  wood  that  has  been  injured  by  frost,  we  have  first 
to  consider  what  we  have  left,  and  then  what  effect  we 
want  to  obtain.  After  a  hard  winter  it  may  be  that  our 
first  operation  has  already  reduced  the  Rose  to  ground  level, 
and  the  second  question  will  not  arise.  Even  so  it  will 
matter  little  ;  provided  the  plants  were  properly  earthed  up 
with  nice  dry  soil,  or  burnt  earth  (not  with  manure),  in  the 
autumn,  the  injury  will  seldom  have  gone  further,  and  they 
will  soon  shoot  vigorously  again.     Our  Teas  are  fortunately 

D 


50      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

a  hardier  race  than  most  of  the  Teas  grown  twenty  years 
ago.  If  the  only  object  is  exhibition  blooms,  hard  pruning 
should  be  the  rule.  Bedding  Roses  are  treated  in  much  the 
same  way,  but  attention  will  be  paid  to  leaving  outward- 
pointing  buds,  whereas  for  exhibition  Roses  the  object  is 
to  prune  to  a  sound  bud  with  little  regard  to  its  direction. 
The  main  difference  between  the  two  will  be  made  later  on, 
when  it  comes  to  disbuddir.g.  But,  putting  aside  exhibi- 
tion and  bedding  Roses,  there  is  a  good  deal  to  be  thought 
of.  If  the  removal  of  weak  and  sappy  wood  has  left  a 
fairly  well-balanced  bush,  and  there  is  plenty  of  room,  we 
may  confine  the  pruning  to  a  little  judicious  thinning  and 
shortening  ;  but  if,  as  often  happens,  only  one  side  of  the 
tree  is  left  intact,  then  care  must  be  directed  to  pruning  to 
buds  pointing  in  a  direction  likely  to  redress  the  balance  of 
the  plant.  Again,  the  tree  may  form  one  of  a  group  which 
requires  similar  treatment,  and  if  so,  it  is  well  to  go  over 
the  whole  group,  cutting  out  the  weak  and  sappy  wood. 
After  doing  this,  we  may  stop  and  take  a  good  look  at  the 
trees  as  a  whole  before  deciding  how  to  proceed. 

(2)  The  chief  modification  of  treatment  for  Roses  of 
the  Maman  Cochet  group  consists  in  the  need  for  critical 
examination  of  the  strong  shoots  pushed  up  from  the  base 
during  the  previous  summer.  Those  that  are  well  ripened 
and  uninjured  by  frost  are  excellent,  but  the  production  of 
these  strong  basal  shoots  goes  on  well  into  the  autumn, 
especially  in  a  wet  year  like  19 10,  and  any  that  are  soft  and 
unripe  are  valueless.  There  is  some  difference  of  opinion 
as  to  the  pruning  these  Roses  should  receive,  some  amateurs 
of  experience  advising  very  little  pruning.  Though  it  is 
not  absolutely  necessary,  my  own  practice  is  to  remove  as 


PRUNING    DIJON    TEAS  51 

much  as  possible  of  the  wood  which  is  more  than  a  year 
old,  and  to  prune  fairly  hard,  seldom  leaving  more  than 
about  6  inches  of  stem  above  the  ground. 

(3)  The  Tea  Roses  which  nearly  approach  the  Chinas 
are  best  treated  like  the  latter/  Such  are  Princess  de  Sagan, 
Souvenir  de  Catherine  Guillot,  Souvenir  de  J.  B.  Guillot, 
Souvenir  de  William  Robinson,  Betty  Berkeley,  and  some 
half-a-dozen  others. 

(4)  Harry  Kirk,  Mrs.  Myles  Kennedy,  and  Roses  near 
the  Hybrid  Teas  in  character  are  best  pruned  to  three  or 
four  eyes  of  the  previous  year's  growth. 

(5)  The  Dijon  Teas,  which  include  Mme.  Berard  and 
Gloire  de  Dijon,  are  a  class  by  themselves.  They  make  fine 
massive  bushes,  or  big  heads  as  standards,  also  good  wall 
Roses,  and  may  do  well  pegged  down.  Some  shoots  may  be 
left  6  or  7  feet  long,  others  cut  to  2  or  3  feet.  Mme.  Jules 
Graveraux  may  be  treated  in  this  way,  and  the  pegging- 
down  method  is  convenient  for  treating  this  Rose.  By  this 
means,  the  flowers  intended  for  exhibition  are  more  easily 
protected  than  is  possible  when  this  Rose  is  grown  in  any 
other  way.  That  beautiful  Rose,  Billard  et  Barre,  belongs 
to  this  section,  but  requires  protection,  and  I  have  found 
the  most  successful  way  of  growing  this  Rose  is  under  the 
overhanging  thatch  of  a  summer-house. 

(6)  The  pruning  of  the  free-growing  climbing  Teas  like 
Papillon  and  Noella  Nabonnand  may  be  confined  to  spur- 
ring in  the  weak  side  shoots  and  thinning  old  wood  and 
shoots  that  are  not  required.  They  are  a  small  group,  but 
by  no  means  the  least  decorative  in  the  garden. 

^  Ante,  p.  47. 


CHAPTER   VIl 

MANURES 

The  use  of  suitable  manures  is  of  great  value  in  Rose 
culture,  but  from  the  questions  I  am  asked  I  believe 
their  value  is  over-estimated  and  their  application  often 
misdirected. 

A  plant  that  is  growing  freely  will  make  good  use 
of  a  large  quantity  of  manure  if  it  is  applied  at  the  right 
time  and  in  proper  condition,  while  a  puny  and  weakly 
plant  may  often  be  better  with  very  little  until  it  has 
begun  to  show  signs  of  health  and  vigour. 

The  safest  and  best  stimulant  for  all  Roses  is  really 
not  manure  at  all,  but  good  fibrous  turf,  chopped  small 
enough  to  dig  into  the  soil,  and  well-rotted  leaf-mould. 
Wakely's  Hop  Manure  seems  to  be  a  convenient  and 
useful  substitute  for  leaf-mould. 

Manures,  properly  so  called,  are  either  natural  or  arti- 
ficial, and  of  these  the  natural  manures  are  the  most  useful. 

First  comes  farmyard  and  stable  manure,  and  the 
manure  from  stables,  when  the  litter  employed  is  moss 
litter,  is  specially  valuable  from  the  large  amount  of 
humus  it  brings  to  the  soil.  But  no  animal  manure 
should  be  employed  when  fresh  or  "green,"  as  it  is  called. 
The  manure  used  in  an  old  hotbed  of  the  previous  year 
is    very    good,    but    perhaps    an    even    better   plan    is    to 


MANURES  53 

collect  a  heap  of  horse,  cow,  pig,  and  pouUry  manure — 
the  more  animals  that  go  to  its  manufacture  the  better — 
heap  it  up,  beat  it  firm,  and  earth  it  over  the  top  hard 
and  solid.  Do  this  in  the  early  summer  and  leave  it 
till  the  next  spring,  when  it  will  cut  down  like  butter, 
and  be  just  the  thing  for  incorporation  with  the  Rose 
beds  at  pruning  time. 

Another  plan  which  makes  a  still  more  useful  com- 
post is  to  make  up  a  heap  by  first  forming  layers  of 
turf,  then  farmyard  or  stable  manure,  then  old  leaves, 
starting  again  on  this  with  turf,  manure,  and  leaves 
until  the  available  material  is  used  up — finally  covering 
it  all  with  a  dome  of  soil.  These  materials,  after  lying 
for  a  year,  make  a  perfect  compost. 

Between  the  natural  and  artificial  manures  come 
bones.  These  seem  to  have  the  peculiar  property,  which 
they  share  to  some  extent  with  leaf-mould,  of  inducing 
the  formation  of  fibrous  roots  by  the  Roses.  They  are 
usually  obtained  from  makers  of  artificial  manure,  and 
are  sold  as  ^-inch  or  :J^-inch  bones,  bone-meal,  and 
bone-dust,  according  to  their  coarseness.  The  ^-inch 
and  :^-inch  bones  retain  their  manurial  value  longest, 
whilst  bone-meal  and  bone-dust  are  quicker  in  their 
action,  and  are  specially  useful  in  making  beds.  I  have 
a  preference  for  bone-meal  as  being  most  easily  applied 
and  most  generally  useful. 

LIQUID   MANURE 

All  Roses  are  benefited  by  a  good  soaking  of  liquid 
manure  applied  after  wet  weather  during  the  growing 
season,  and  for  exhibition  Roses  it  is  indispensable. 


54     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

It  is  prepared  in  two  ways.  The  first  and  best  method 
is  to  arrange  for  the  drainage  of  the  farmyard  or  a  heap 
of  manure — even  a  hotbed  will  do — into  some  dead  well 
or  tank  (in  the  last  case,  when  the  supply  is  deficient, 
a  few  buckets  of  water  may  be  thrown  over  the  heap), 
and  diluting  the  liquid  which  collects  till  it  is  a  pale 
straw  colour.  The  other  way  is  to  keep  a  tub  of  water 
into  which  a  few  pecks  of  cow  or  stable  manure  are 
thrown  from  time  to  time,  and  occasionally  stirred  up 
with  a  pole.  This  should  generally  be  capable  of  being 
used  at  once,  but  if  too  dark  should  be  diluted  to  straw 
colour. 

Roses  intended  to  furnish  exhibition  flowers  should 
be  given  applications  of  this  in  May  and  early  June. 
It  is  quite  useless  to  give  it  in  small  quantities.  It 
should  be  given  at  the  rate  of  at  least  a  gallon  to  each 
plant,  and  after  rain  if  possible.  It  is  best  not  to  begin 
using  it  till  the  plants  have  made  a  fair  growth,  and 
rather  apply  it  too  weak  than  too  strong. 

ARTIFICIAL  MANURES 

Artificial  manures  may  be  incomplete  or  complete.  An 
incomplete  manure  supplies  some  only  of  the  materials 
required  by  the  plant.  The  primary  salts  are  incomplete. 
The  most  useful  materials  supplied  by  salts  are  nitrogen, 
phosphorus,  and  potash.  Nitrogen  is  supplied  by  nitrates 
of  soda  or  potash  or  by  salts  of  ammonia,  sulphate  of 
ammonia  being  that  generally  used.  The  effect  of  nitro- 
genous manure  is  to  increase  the  leaf  production  and  growth, 
retarding  the  ripening  of  the  wood.     Nitrogen  is  probably 


ARTIFICIAL    MANURES  55 

always  taken  up  by  the  plant  in  the  form  of  nitrates  ;  hence 
nitrates  of  soda  or  potash  are  the  quickest  in  their  action. 
Sulphate  of  ammonia  has  to  be  converted  into  the  form  of 
nitrate  before  it  is  used  by  the  plant ;  hence  it  is  slower  in 
action.  But  sulphate  of  ammonia  possesses  the  property  of 
being  retained  in  the  soil  probably  in  connection  with  the 
humus  contained  in  it.  Hence  it  is  more  lasting  than  the 
nitrates,  which  are  rapidly  washed  away. 

The  effect  of  the  phosphates  is  in  some  respects  nearly 
the  opposite  of  nitrogenous  salts,  as  they  tend  to  hasten  the 
ripening  of  the  plant,  and  so  restrict  the  production  of 
foliage.  They  are  usually  applied  either  in  some  form  of 
basic  slag  or  superphosphate  of  lime,  which  are  cheap,  or 
as  phosphate  of  potash,  which  is  rather  more  expensive. 

Superphosphate  is  sold  in  two  forms — one  the  acid  phos- 
phate, and  the  other  a  basic  phosphate.  The  phosphate 
is  supposed  to  be  only  taken  up  by  the  plant  when  in  the 
soluble  or  acid  condition  ;  hence  the  acid  superphosphate 
acts  quickly,  the  basic  phosphate  more  slowly,  and  basic 
slag  slowest  of  the  three. 

Basic  slag  contains  a  large  proportion  of  lime,  and  so  is 
useful  for  sweetening  the  soil.  By  reason  of  its  slow  action 
it  is  a  very  safe  manure  to  use.  It  should,  however,  never 
be  applied  with  sulphate  of  ammonia  or  with  stable  or 
farmyard  manure,  but  may  be  used  with  nitrate  of  soda. 

Potash,  the  third  member  of  the  essential  group,  is 
largely  utilised  by  the  Rose.  It  is  said  to  give  "  quality  "  ; 
when  used  by  itself  it  is  generally  applied  in  the  form 
of  Kainit,  a  very  cheap  salt,  being  a  crude  chloride  of 
potash,  with  an  admixture  of  sulphate.  Being  rather  slow 
in  action,   it  may  be  employed  in  autumn.      Not  one  of 


56      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

these  manures  is  complete  in  itself,  and  to  obtain  a  complete 
manure  a  mixture  of  all  three  is  necessary.  Such  a  mixture, 
when  only  a  small  quantity  is  required,  may  be  obtained  by 
using  nitrate  of  soda  and  phosphate  of  potash.  Probably 
the  quickest  acting  manure  obtainable  may  be  made  by 
dissolving  an  ounce  of  nitrate  of  soda  and  an  ounce  of 
phosphate  of  potash  in  2  gallons  of  water.  This  is  very 
useful  as  a  stimulant  to  plants  in  pots  just  before  they  come 
into  flower,  and  as  the  final  application  of  liquid  manure 
in  the  season. 

Lime,  though  not  a  manure  in  itself,  is  useful  in  Rose- 
growing  for  the  following  purposes  ; — (i)  It  corrects  the 
acidity  caused  by  excess  of  humus  and  sweetens  the  soil. 
(2)  It  liberates  constituents  of  the  soil  in  a  condition  in 
which  they  can  be  used  by  the  plants.  (3)  On  clay  soils  it 
is  most  useful  in  permeating,  and  so  assisting  to  break  up, 
unfertile  clays. 

The  application  of  any  of  these  incomplete  manures  by 
themselves  must  depend  on  the  condition  of  the  soil.  If 
any  one  of  them  is  lacking  in  its  due  proportion,  the  use  of 
that  one  may  be  beneficial.  When  they  are  used,  the  follow- 
ing are  proportions  in  which  it  is  safe  to  apply  them  : — 


oz. 

Sulphate  of  Ammonia,  i  oz. 
Superphosphate,  2  oz. 
Basic  Phosphate,  2  oz. 


Basic  Slag,  ^  lb. 
Phosph 
Kainit,  i^  oz. 
Lime,  ^  to  ^  lb. 


Per  square  yard  in  each  case,  or  double  these  quantities 
to  every  yard  run  of  a  bed  6  feet  wide. 


COMPLETE    MANURES  S7 


COMPLETE  MANURES 

Complete  artificial  manures  are  almost  always  com- 
pounded, and  there  are  many  serviceable  receipts  on  the 
market.  One  of  the  best  is  that  sold  as  Tonks  Manure.  It 
is  compounded  as  follows  : — 


Superphosphate        .         .        .        . 
Nitrate  of  Potash    . 

.     12  parts. 

.       ID         „ 

Sulphate  of  Magnesia 

Sulphate  of  Iron 

Sulphate  of  Lime  (Gypsum)     . 

2          „ 

I  part. 
8  parts 

This  may  be  used  in  February  or  March  and  in  May  at 
the  rate  of  \  lb.  to  the  square  yard,  or,  what  is  a  simpler 
reckoning,  a  48  flower-pot  (5  inch)  for  every  2  yards  run  of 
a  bed  6  feet  wide.  The  effect  of  magnesia  on  plants  is  at 
present  little  understood.  It  is  no  doubt  poisonous  in 
large  quantities,  but  salts  of  magnesia  have  a  wonderful 
power  of  retaining  moisture  in  the  soil,  and  it  is  thought 
that  in  small  quantities  they  may  be  beneficial. 

Other  artificial  manures  worth  notice  are  Clay's  Fertiliser, 
a  quick-acting  manure,  which  may  be  used  at  the  rate  of 
I  oz.  to  the  square  yard,  towards  the  end  of  May,  and 
Ichthemic  Guano,  which  acts  rather  slowly,  and  may  be 
used  at  the  rate  of  i^  oz.  to  the  square  yard,  or,  as  a 
liquid  manure,  i^  oz.  to  the  gallon  of  water. 

The  general  use  of  artificial  manures  should  never  take 
the  place  of  natural  manure,  and  is  only  to  be  recommended 
as  a  supplement,  or  to  give  the  plants  a  change  of  diet. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

SUMMER  TREATMENT 

As  soon  as  the  pruning  is  done  and  the  spring  manuring 
completed,  the  summer  cultivation  must  be  begun  ;  this 
is  simple  but  important.  The  thorough  and  persistent 
use  of  the  hoe  is  imperative,  and  syringing  is  necessary 
from  early  in  May,  and  thence  throughout  the  season,  to 
keep  green-fly  and  mildew  in  check.  The  exhibition  Roses 
will  need  regular  supplies  of  manure  water  through  May 
and  early  June,  and  most  Roses  will  be  benefited  by  one 
or  two  applications,  the  weaker  the  better  ;  but  whenever 
given,  they  must  be  thorough — a  mere  damping  of  the 
surface  is  of  little  use.  Whenever  it  is  given,  make  a  rule 
always  to  hoe  well  the  next  day.  Liquid  manure  should 
not  be  given  after  July. 

In  the  presence  of  a  dry  summer  some  recommend  that 
the  Rose  beds  be  coated  with  a  mulch  consisting  of  long 
manure,  brewer's  grains,  or  similar  material.  If  a  mulch 
is  used  at  all — and  I  am  told  on  some  hot  and  dry  soils 
it  is  really  necessary — it  is  most  important  that  it  be  a  mulch 
only  and  not  a  manure.  If  it  can  be  avoided  it  is  best,  I 
think,  not  to  use  it  at  all.  A  manure  and  a  mulch  are  quite 
different  things.  The  first  is  for  feeding,  and  the  mulch 
for  conserving  moisture.  I  have  used  manure  as  a  mulch 
with  fatal   results.     A  few   weeks  of   damp  weather  after 


MULCHING  59 

Ihe  manure  mulch  has  been  apphed,  I  have  examined  the 
soil  beneath  the  mulch,  and  found  a  mass  of  beautiful 
white  young  roots  of  the  Roses  just  under  the  mulch — then 
a  spell  of  drought,  and  the  beautiful  white  roots  were  no 
more.  Admitting  that  the  mulch  I  used  was  of  the  wrong 
kind,  I  think  it  best  not  to  use  it  at  all,  and  to  make  the 
mulch  of  the  soil  itself — well-hoed,  friable  soil,  permeable 
alike  to  air  and  rain.  But  if  there  are  soils  where  mulches 
are  necessary,  let  them  consist  of  some  neutral  material, 
such  as  cocoa-nut  fibre,  which  will  not  decoy  the  roots  to 
the  surface  and  so  cause  them  to  perish. 

There  are  few  summers  when  it  is  not  necessary  at 
some  time  during  July  or  August  to  apply  artificial  water- 
ings. It  is  well  to  delay  watering  as  long  as  possible,  for, 
when  begun,  it  must  be  continued  from  time  to  time  till 
rain  falls.  A  watering  that  only  moistens  the  surface  is,  I 
think,  worse  than  none  at  all.  After  watering,  stir  the  soil 
to  see  if  it  has  got  well  down,  and  if  it  has  not  done  so, 
give  more.  It  is  not  a  bad  plan,  in  a  dry  spell,  to  sink  a 
drain-pipe  on  end,  or  a  6-inch  pot,  next  the  Rose,  and  fill 
them  up  to  ensure  the  water  getting  to  the  roots. 

In  the  late  summer  or  early  autumn,  many  Roses  are 
benefited  by  a  judicious  thinning.  The  summer-flowering 
Roses  that  bloom  on  short  laterals  from  wood  of  the  pre- 
vious year  should  have  the  wood  that  has  flowered  cut 
right  away.  Those  of  a  less  vigorous  habit,  such  as  the 
Moss  Roses,  should  be  given  similar  treatment,  but  to  a 
less  extent,  a  certain  amount  of  the  old  wood  being  left. 
The  Briars  may  be  thinned  every  few  years. 

The  strong-growing  H.P.'s  and  some  of  the  H.T.'s 
of  similar  habit  should  be  looked  over,   and  shoots  that 


6o      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

have  produced  only  weak  growth  cut  away,  leaving  the 
strongest  young  shoots  to  grow  and  ripen. 

An  autumn  thinning  of  wall  and  pillar  Roses  is  very 
useful.  It  should  not  be  too  severe,  but  merely  with  the 
object  of  allowing  the  best  young  wood  to  grow  and 
ripen. 

The  hoeing  meanwhile  should  be  diligently  continued 
until  the  autumn  rains  come  and  it  becomes  less  useful. 

The  last  operation  of  the  Rose  year  is  preparation  for 
winter.  Where  the  soil  is  light  and  friable,  all  that  is 
necessary  in  the  case  of  dwarfs  is  to  draw  a  little  soil  round 
the  plants  a  few  inches  up  the  stems.  On  heavy  soils, 
it  is  better  to  bring  a  little  light  soil  for  the  purpose,  or, 
what  is  still  more  effectual,  to  put  a  little  heap  of  fine  burnt 
clay  round  each  plant.  In  all  soils  I  have  found  nothing 
so  good  as  sifted,  burnt  clay  for  this  purpose. 

I  should  add  one  warning,  and  that  is  that  the  winter 
protection  should  not  be  applied  too  early.  December 
is  quite  soon  enough,  for  it  is  most  important  to  have  the 
wood  thoroughly  ripened  by  the  sun  and  air  before  the 
winter  protection  is  applied.  Finally,  do  not  use  manure 
for  this  winter  protection.  The  old  plan  of  tucking  up 
the  plants  for  their  winter  sleep  with  a  heavy  dressing  of 
manure  is  not  one  to  be  recommended.  It  is  too  wet,  and 
I  am  confident  that  since  I  have  given  it  up  I  have  not 
lost  half  the  number  of  plants  I  used  to  lose  in  winter  when 
following  the  old  method. 


CHAPTER   IX 

PROPAGATION 

The  Rose  may  be  propagated  by  budding,  grafting,  cut- 
tings, layers,  and,  in  the  case  of  species  on  their  own  roots, 
by  suckers.  The  Chinas,  and  perhaps  some  of  the  Poly- 
anthas,  can  also  sometimes  be  increased  by  division. 

All  these  methods  have  their  special  advantages.  Bud- 
ding is  the  quickest  and  best  method  for  increasing  the 
ordinary  garden  Roses.  Summer  is  the  time  for  this,  July 
and  August  being  the  best  months  for  the  operation.  Graft- 
ing is  little  used  by  amateurs,  and  it  has  to  be  done  in  heat 
in  spring.  It  is  largely  used  by  the  trade  to  rapidly  increase 
new  varieties.  Cuttings  are  the  easiest  and  simplest  mode 
of  propagation,  and  very  useful  for  rearing  the  Wichuraianas, 
some  climbing  Roses,  many  of  the  species,  and  a  very  few 
garden  Roses.  Layering  is  especially  useful  for  increasing 
some  of  the  species  which  do  not  strike  readily  from 
cuttings,  and  for  quickly  rooting  some  of  the  climbers. 
It  is  done  in  spring  and  summer. 

Division,  though  often  practicable  with  the  dwarf 
Chinas,  is  not  to  be  relied  upon. 

Increasing  by  taking  off  and  transplanting  suckers  is 
specially  useful  for  the  Scotch  Roses,  R.  nitida,  and  the 
varieties  of  R.  rugosa. 


62     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 


STOCKS  FOR  BUDDING  STANDARD  STOCKS 

I  will  begin  with  stardard  stocks,  for  beginners  in  bud- 
ding generally  do  make  their  first  attempts  on  standards,  and 
rightly  so.  They  are  easier  to  manipulate,  for  at  first  the 
dwarf  stock  is  found  inconvenient  to  get  at.  Standard 
stocks  are  generally  got  from  Briar  men  or  farm  labourers, 
who  cut  them  from  the  hedges  in  their  autumn  hedging 
work.  Two-year-old  stocks  are  the  best,  and  they  should 
be  planted  in  October  or  November.  I  generally  plant 
them  in  double  rows  some  2  feet  apart,  when  they  are 
held  together  by  their  summer  growth,  and  staking  is  un- 
necessary the  first  year.  A  beginner,  however,  will  find  it 
much  more  convenient  to  plant  single  rows  and  tie  each 
stock  to  a  stake  ;  access  is  then  much  easier.  In  the  spring 
they  are  headed  down  to  the  desired  height — about  3  feet  or 
less  is  a  convenient  size — and  all  side  shoots  removed,  the 
buds  being  inserted  on  the  young  growths  that  push  from 
near  the  head  of  the  stock.  Several  of  these  young  growths 
may  be  left  to  grow,  but  I  think  it  well  to  remove  all  side 
growths  within  a  foot  or  so  of  the  ground.  If  there  is  a 
shortage  of  standard  stocks,  and  you  have  any  tall  suckers 
from  old  stools,  these  may  be  budded,  not  on  to  the  side 
shoots,  for  there  will  not  be  any,  but  on  to  the  main  shoot 
of  the  sucker.  When  the  bud  has  taken,  the  sucker  must 
be  trained  to  the  old  stool  and  a  V-shaped  incision  made, 
cutting  it  about  half  through.  Roots  will  form  here,  and  in 
the  autumn  the  sucker  may  be  severed  from  the  stool.  I 
have  got  many  good  standards  in  this  way. 


DWARF    STOCKS  63 


DWARF   STOCKS 

The  dwarf  stocks  generally  used  are  the  seedling  Briar, 
Briar  cuttings,  and  Manetti.  I  prefer  the  seedling  Briar. 
Seedling  Briars  can  be  bought  very  cheaply,  and  as  it  takes 
some  time  and  trouble  to  rear  them,  it  is  hardly  worth 
while  where  room  is  precious. 

But  those  who  wish  to  raise  their  own  may  do  so  by 
sowing  the  seed  obtained  from  the  hips  of  the  Wild  Rose. 
I  generally  fill  my  pockets  with  them  when  I  am  out  shoot- 
ing in  the  autumn,  and  put  them  in  boxes  of  sand,  standing 
these  in  the  open  till  springtime.  In  the  spring,  rub  the 
seed  from  the  pips  and  sow  it  rather  thickly  in  rows.  The 
hips  should  never  be  allowed  to  dry.  A  certain  number 
of  seeds  will  grow  the  first  year,  and  others  the  second 
year  from  sowing,  but  many  never  grow  at  all. 

Mons.  Viviand  Morel  has  made  some  interesting  experi- 
ments in  the  germination  of  Briar  seeds.  He  sowed  them 
in  batches  every  fortnight  from  the  beginning  of  August 
to  October,  and  examined  them  in  the  following  March. 
He  found  that  all  of  those  sown  in  August  germinated, 
while  of  the  seeds  sown  in  September  part  only  had  grown, 
and  the  October-sown  seeds  failed  to  germinate  at  all. 
These  results  point  to  the  desirability  of  either  sowing 
the  seeds  as  soon  as  they  are  ripe — in  this  country,  of 
course,  the  ripening  would  take  place  later  than  in  France — 
or  otherwise  packing  them  at  once  in  layers  of  moist  sand, 
and  sowing  them  in  the  following  February. 

The  httle  plants,  if  they  do  not  come  too  thickly,  may 
be    allowed    to   grow   in    the   seed-bed,    or   they    may    be 


64      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

transplanted  and  later  removed  to  where  they  are  to  be 
budded,  but  they  must  be  fully  one  year  old  before  they 
are  fit  for  budding. 

Briar  Cuttings  are  prepared  in  October  from  the  tops 
of  the  stocks  that  have  been  budded  in  the  summer,  or  from 
the  hedges.  In  the  latter  case,  do  not  take  the  lax  trailing 
growth  of  the  Field  Rose,  but  keep  to  the  Dog  Rose.  The 
cuttings  should  be  about  lo  inches  long,  all  the  thorns  should 
be  removed,  and  the  buds  except  two  or  three  at  the  top, 
cutting  the  base  just  below  a  bud.  This  takes  a  long  time 
if  many  are  wanted.  When  made,  the  cuttings  may  either 
be  planted  at  once  in  double  rows  3  inches  apart — they 
are  only  wanted  to  root  the  first  year — or,  as  I  generally 
find  convenient,  they  may  be  tied  up  in  bundles  of  fifty  and 
buried  in  the  soil  with  2  or  3  inches  of  their  tops  sticking 
out.  Besides  saving  space,  this  method  has  the  advantage 
that  any  that  have  not  properly  calloused  over  by  the 
spring  may  be  thrown  away.  When  spring  arrives  the 
bundles  should  be  taken  up  and  inserted  in  double  rows, 
and  most  of  them  will  root  during  the  summer. 

Manetti. — The  Italian  Briar  is  a  very  early  stock,  and 
many  like  it  for  H.P.'s,  for  big  plants  are  produced  the  first 
year.  The  stocks  are  prepared  from  cuttings,  which  are 
made  like  Briar  cuttings,  but  they  root  more  easily.  This 
stock  should  not  be  used  for  Teas. 

De  la  Grifferae  is  a  variety  of  Rosa  multiflora  with 
pink-coloured,  double  flowers,  and  of  robust  habit.  Some 
years  ago  it  was  in  great  repute  as  a  stock  for  Teas,  and 
many  still  like  it  for  this  purpose,  but  I  prefer  the  seedling 
Briar.  The  stocks  are  obtained  from  cuttings,  which  root 
readily  if  made  in  the  autumn. 


DWARF    STOCKS  65 

Rosa  laxa  is  a  species  which,  being  almost  thornless, 
has  advantages.  Propagation  is  effected  by  cuttings  struck 
in  autumn.  This  stock  is  useful  for  some  purposes,  and  it 
has  been  suggested  as  specially  suitable  for  some  of  the 
modern  Roses  originating  from  Lyons,  such  as  Marquise 
de  Sinety. 

The  bed  to  receive  the  dwarf  stocks  should  be  prepared 
in  autumn,  and  the  young  stocks,  whether  seedlings  or 
cuttings,  planted  in  February  where  they  are  to  remain. 
They  make  little  growth  for  a  couple  of  months  and  then 
begin  to  grow  vigorously,  and  are  ready  for  budding  in  July. 

If  a  few  of  the  stocks  that  were  worked  in  the  previous 
year,  but  failed  to  "take,"  have  been  kept,  budding  may 
be  done  on  these,  from  the  buds  of  plants  grown  under 
glass,  as  early  as  May.  The  stocks  must  be  growing  freely 
to  take  the  bud  well,  and  must  be  partially  ripe.  The 
latter  condition  is  easily  ascertained  by  testing  the  prickles. 
If  these  break  off  easily  the  stock  is  in  a  proper  condition. 
When  the  slit  is  made  in  the  bark  of  the  stock,  it  must 
separate  easily  from  the  stem  when  the  sharpened  ivory 
heel  of  the  budding  knife  is  passed  under  it.  If  this 
cannot  be  done  readily,  and  without  bruising  the  bark,  the 
^tock  is  not  in  a  proper  condition. 

Preparing  the  Stocks.— In  the  case  of  standards,  all 
that  is  necessary  is  to  remove  a  few  prickles  on  the  side 
growths  near  the  stem  of  the  stock.  For  dwarfs,  something 
more  is  required.  A  trench  is  taken  out  down  the  rows  of 
stocks  like  a  turnip  trench,  to  uncover  the  collar  of  the 
stocks,  and  the  stems  of  the  stocks  are  rubbed  and  cleaned 
with  a  duster  or  piece  of  old  sacking. 

Preparing  the   Buds.  — This    is    the    most    important 

E 


66     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

operation  in  budding.  I  think  more  failures  arise  from 
using  buds  in  an  improper  condition  than  from  any  other 
cause.  They  should  be  taken  from  a  shoot  which  has  just 
flowered.  If  the  thorns  rub  off  easily,  the  stem  is  probably 
in  good  condition.  As  a  rule,  the  two  highest  buds  should 
be  rejected,  and  those  from  the  centre  of  the  shoot  used. 
The  actual  process  of  budding  consists  of  four  operations — 
(i)  Cutting  the  bud  ;  (2)  extracting  the  wood  ;  (3)  inserting 
the  bud  in  the  stock  ;  and  (4)  tying  it  up.  (See  illustrations 
on  p.  67,  reproduced  from  the  Gardeners'  Chronicle.) 

The  apparatus  required  for  standards  is  merely  a  budding 
knife  and  some  pieces  of  raffia  cut  about  a  foot  in  length 
and  soaked  in  water  to  soften  them,  but  not  wet.  For 
budding  dwarfs,  I  take  in  addition  a  leather  cushion,  a 
small  trowel,  and  a  duster — a  digging  fork  is  also  useful  to 
help  to  keep  the  Briars  away  from  the  work.  The  cushion 
is  to  kneel  upon,  the  trowel  to  clear  away  the  loose  soil 
when  necessary,  and  the  duster,  besides  its  use  for  cleaning 
the  stem  of  the  stock,  is  often  convenient  for  spreading  on 
the  ground  round  the  stock  to  keep  away  the  soil  and 
prevent  the  back  of  one's  hands  and  one's  cuffs  from 
getting  dirty. 

(i)  Every  operator  has  a  slightly  different  procedure.  I 
will  describe  mine.  Having  got  the  stock  ready  and  pro- 
cured the  shoot  of  the  Rose  to  be  budded,  I  first  cut  off  all 
the  leaves,  leaving  the  end  of  the  leaf-stalks.  Next  I  select 
the  bud  and  make  a  slight  incision  below  the  selected  bud, 
say  half  an  inch  above  the  next  one  lower  down.  This  done, 
I  begin  to  cut  a  little  shield  of  wood  with  the  bud  in  the 
centre,  starting  rather  less  than  half  an  inch  above  the  bud, 
and  just  cutting  through  the  bark  into  the  wood,  bringing 


BUDDING 


67 


ROSE  BUDDING 


Fig.  I. — Removing  the  bud. 


Fig.  2. — Bud  and  stock  prepared. 
a,  b.  The  incision  made  in  the  stock. 

c.  The  bud  with  wood  removed. 

d.  Upper  end  of  bud  not  wanted. 


Fig.  3.— The  bud  inserted  on  the  stock, 
but  not  cut  off  at  top. 


Fig.  4.— The  final  act  of  tying  in 
the  bud. 


68      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

the  knife  out  of  the  wood  half  an  inch  below  the  bud,  but 
not  cutting  through  the  bark  ;  then  tear  or  cut  down  the 
bark  to  the  cross  cut  made  at  starting.  I  have  then  a  little 
shield  of  bark  and  wood  with  the  bud  in  it,  and  a  tail  of 
bark,  say  i|  inches  long,  attached. 

(2)  To  remove  the  wood  I  bend  the  bark  tail  over  the 
forefinger,  wood  side  uppermost,  and  this  causes  the  wood 
to  separate  slightly  from  the  bark  ;  then,  by  taking  hold  of 
the  end  of  the  wood,  the  wood  may  be  jerked  out  of  the 
bark  with  a  slight  pull,  half  upwards,  half  sideways.  If  the 
bark  has  come  out  leaving  the  base  of  the  bud  slightly  pro- 
jecting from  the  under  side  of  the  bark,  the  tail  is  neatly  cut 
off  square  and  the  bud  put  between  the  lips — do  not  wet  it 
— while  the  slit  is  made  in  the  stock. 

If,  however,  when  the  wood  is  pulled  out,  a  little  hollow 
is  found  under  the  bud  on  the  inside  of  the  bark,  the  bud 
has  "  pulled  out "  with  the  wood,  and  the  bud  will  not  grow. 
Throw  it  away  and  try  another. 

It  has  often  been  said,  and  particularly  in  recent  years, 
that  it  is  not  necessary  to  pull  out  the  wood.  It  is  true  that 
buds  inserted  in  this  way  will  often  grow  and  make  good 
plants,  especially  Teas,  but  I  do  not  consider  it  good  prac- 
tice. Some  years  ago  I  made  some  experiments  in  this 
method  of  budding  with  the  wood  in,  and  came  to  the 
conclusion  that  the  proportion  of  buds  which  would  "  take  " 
when  thus  treated  was  considerably  less  than  when  the 
ordinary  method  is  adopted.  I  think  it  is  a  course  which 
should  only  be  pursued  when  the  buds  are  really  valuable 
ones  and  are  in  a  condition  in  which  the  wood  cannot  be 
removed  without  pulling  out  the  bud.  Sometimes  in  pulling 
out  the  wood  a  little  bit  breaks  off  and   remains  behind. 


PLATE   IV 

MADAME   RAVARY   (H.T.) 

A  useful  Rose  for  cultivation  in  beds  or  for  supplying  flowers 
for  decorative  purposes. 


BUDDING  71 

In  this  case,  if  the  bud  is  otherwise  satisfactory,  it  is  better 
to  ignore  it  and  leave  it  in,  rather  than  run  the  risk  of 
damaging  the  bud  by  trying  to  get  it  out — unless,  of  course, 
there  are  more  buds  available  than  are  u^anted,  in  vi^hich 
case  throw  it  away  and  take  another. 

(3)  The  bud  is  now  ready  for  insertion.  With  the 
bud  in  the  lips,  stand  or  kneel  over  the  stock  and  make 
a  longitudinal  cut  with  the  budding  knife  through  the  bark 
of  the  stock,  then  a  cross  cut,  and  raise  the  bark  with 
the  back  end  of  the  budding  knife  and  slip  in  the  bud 
neatly  and  without  lacerating  it,  being  careful  to  bring  the 
upper  bark  of  the  bud  just  into  contact  with  the  untouched 
bark  of  the  stock  above  the  T  cut.  The  place  to  make  the 
incision  in  the  stock  is,  for  a  standard,  on  the  side  growths 
of  the  year  close  to  the  old  stem,  and  for  dwarfs  on  the 
seedling  Briar,  just  below  the  collar,  and  on  Briar  cuttings, 
just  below  the  normal  surface  of  the  ground. 

(4)  All  that  remains  to  be  done  is  to  tie  in  the  bud.  No 
knot  is  necessary.  Begin  to  wind  the  strip  of  raffia  from 
one  end,  holding  the  loose  end  till  a  turn  or  two  of  the 
raffia  keeps  it  in  place ;  wind  it  on  fairly  tight,  but  not  over 
the  bud,  which  must  be  left  showing  between  the  turns  of 
the  raffia.  When  you  come  to  the  other  end,  simply  slip 
the  loose  end  of  the  raffia  through  the  last  turn  and  pull  it 
tight.     It  will  hold  quite  firmly. 

A  month  later  the  bud  may  be  looked  at,  and,  if  it  has 
not  taken,  another  bud  may  be  inserted  if  not  too  late  in 
the  season.  In  the  case  of  standards,  if  the  bud  has  taken, 
the  raffia  may  be  loosened  and  retied. 

Nothing  further  remains  to  be  done  till  February,  when 
the  dwarf  stocks  are  cut  off  just  above  the  bud,  and  the 


72      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

standards  to  within  one  eye  of  the  bud.  This  eye  is  left 
to  grow  that  it  may  draw  the  sap,  but  it  should  be  cut 
back  at  the  beginning  of  May,  when  the  bud  only  is 
allowed  to  grow. 

A  most  important  operation  remains,  that  of  tying  the 
young  shoot  of  the  budded  Rose  to  a  support.  In  the  case 
of  standards  a  thin  bamboo  is  tied  by  two  strings  to  the 
main  stem  of  the  Briar,  and  for  dwarfs  a  bamboo  is  fixed 
in  the  ground  close  to  the  bud.  As  soon  as  the  bud  has 
grown  enough,  it  must  be  at  once  tied  to  the  support,  and 
when  it  has  grown  further,  a  second  and,  later,  even  a 
third  tying  may  be  necessary.  If  tying  is  not  carefully 
attended  to,  the  wind  will  blow  the  young  growth  out  of 
the  stock,  and  all  the  trouble  taken  with  it  is  wasted. 


GRAFTING 

Grafting  is  almost  exclusively  resorted  to  by  trade 
growers,  as  the  most  expeditious  means  of  raising  new 
Roses,  plants  grafted  in  January  being  obtainable  in  flower 
in  three  or  four  months'  time.  It  is  carried  out  under  glass, 
and  a  good  bottom  heat  is  necessary.  Few  amateurs  will 
attempt  it,  and,  as  the  plants  are  not  so  satisfactory  as 
budded  plants,  they  are  not  advised  to  do  so. 

The  stocks  are  potted  up  a  year  before  grafting  into 
3  or  4  inch  pots  and  placed  in  heat  a  fortnight  before  the 
operation.  The  shoots  of  the  Rose  to  be  grafted  are  usually 
.  cut  off  and  laid  in  sand  or  moist  earth  so  that  they  may  be 
in  a  less  advanced  condition  than  the  stock.  The  scions 
consist  of  one  bud  only.  The  stocks  are  headed  down  and 
pared  on  one  side  to  form  a  splice  with  the  scion,  which  is 


PROPAGATION    BY    CUTTINGS     73 

cut  to  fit.  It  is  important  (i.)  that  the  inner  bark  of  stock 
and  scion  meet  accurately  at  least  on  one  side,  (ii.)  that  the 
air  be  excluded  till  the  scion  has  begun  to  grow.  The 
stock  and  scion  are  bound  together  with  raffia.  French 
grafting  wax  may  be  used,  but  much  grafting  is  done  with 
raffia  only.  When  the  operation  is  complete,  the  pot  is 
placed  in  a  frame  with  bottom  heat,  and  the  air  excluded. 
Air  is  admitted  when  the  buds  have  started,  usually  in  about 
three  weeks'  time. 

CUTTINGS 

The  easiest  way  to  propagate  Roses  is  by  means  of 
cuttings  made  from  ripened  shoots  of  the  current  year 
in  October,  and  inserted  in  beds  in  the  open.  The  cuttings 
may  be  from  6  inches  to  a  foot  long,  and  they  should  be 
inserted  in  the  ground  to  three-quarters  of  their  length.  In 
the  following  summer  they  will  make  roots,  and  in  October 
they  may  be  moved  to  the  place  in  which  they  are  to 
remain.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  make  a  trench  a  few 
inches  deep,  and  fill  the  trench  with  sand  to  receive  the 
cuttings.  The  only  attention  the  cuttings  require  is  to 
examine  them  carefully  after  frosty  weather  and  press  them 
into  the  ground,  making  the  soil  firm  again.  In  order  to 
prevent  the  frost  pushing  them  out  of  the  soil,  some  advise 
inserting  the  cuttings  obliquely  into  the  ground. 

Cuttings  from  some  Roses  may  be  taken  up  to  Christmas, 
but  a  smaller  proportion  is  likely  to  grow.  They  may  also  be 
taken  from  the  middle  of  July  onwards,  placing  the  cuttings 
in  pots  or  boxes  in  a  frame  under  a  north  wall,  and  keep- 
ing them  damp  and  close  until  rooted.  In  spring,  cuttings 
may  also  be  taken  under  glass  from  plants  grown  indoors. 


74      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

Many  Rose-growers  are  sorely  distressed  every  spring  by 
the  apparent  waste  that  takes  place  at  the  spring  pruning, 
and  would  wish  to  utilise  some  of  the  stems  cut  away,  but 
this  is  not  the  right  time  of  year  to  take  cuttings  from 
Roses  in  the  open.  I  do  not  say  none  will  grow,  for  I  have 
myself  succeeded  in  rooting  them  at  this  season,  but  few 
will  do  so,  and  the  game  is  hardly  worth  the  candle. 

Roses  specially  suitable  for  growing  from  cuttings  are 
the  Multiflora  hybrids  generally  known  as  Ramblers,  such 
varieties,  for  instance,  as  Crimson  Rambler,  Blush  Rambler, 
Tea  Rambler,  Hiawatha,  and  the  like,  and  the  hybrids  of 
Wichuraiana,  of  which  there  are  now  so  many.  All  these 
grow  well  from  cuttings  and  root  readily.  I  fancy  they  are 
not  quite  so  rampant  as  when  they  are  worked  on  the  Briar, 
and  therefore  when  wanted  for  pillars  they  are  better  when 
grown  from  cuttings. 

Every  one  should  grow  a  few  plants  of  La  France  from 
cuttings.  In  some  soils  this  variety  is  apt  to  "ball"  when 
on  the  Briar,  and  then  plants  reared  from  cuttings  are 
sometimes  more  successful.  This  I  find  to  be  the  case  in 
my  own  garden. 

Z^phirine  Drouhin,  again,  makes  good  plants  from 
cuttings,  and  some  of  my  friends  say  Chinas  are  excel- 
lent when  so  grown,  but  I  have  only  recently  tried  them. 
Certainly  they  root  readily.  Any  one  who  grows  many 
of  the  species  of  Rosa  should  try  them  in  this  way.  It 
is  more  convenient  to  grow  them  thus  than  on  the  Briar, 
as  they  are,  in  some  cases,  apt  to  lose  their  character  after 
budding  and  to  get  out  of  hand. 

The  Tea  Roses  seem  to  do  well  from  cuttings  in  some 
soils.     A  neighbour  of   mine  tells  me   he  has  succeeded 


LAYERING  JS 

well  with  Maman  Cochet  grown  in  this  way,  but  my  own 
experience  is  otherwise.  I  am  sure  that  in  my  garden 
they  are  far  more  satisfactory  on  the  Briar.  Possibly  the 
Teas  might  do  well  from  cuttings  on  the  Surrey  sands. 

Bud  Cuttings  are  made  by  cutting  a  bud  as  if  about 
to  bud  on  a  stock  but  allowing  the  wood  and  the  leaf 
to  remain.  They  should  be  inserted  in  pots  or  pans 
of  leaf-mould  and  sand,  and  placed  in  the  greenhouse 
under  bell  glasses. 

Those  who  wish  to  pursue  this  interesting  subject 
further  will  find  a  most  elaborate  paper  "  On  Different 
Ways  of  Striking  Roses,"  by  Mons.  Viviand  Morel,  in 
vol.  27  of  the  R.H.S.  Journal,  p.  510. 

LAYERING 

Most  Roses  will  root  from  layers  if  their  shoots  are 
sufficiently  flexible.  The  layers  can  be  made  in  summer 
— the  best  time  for  this  work — or  in  autumn  or  spring. 
Spring  or  summer  layers  will  be  rooted  by  the  autumn. 

The  process  is  similar  to  the  well-known  method  of 
layering  Carnations.  A  shoot  of  the  Rose  is  bent  down 
into  the  soil  and  the  top  brought  up  again.  It  is  secured 
in  the  earth  by  a  layering  peg  or  by  a  heavy  stone,  and 
the  shoot  is  cut  half  through  (tongued)  just  beyond  the 
bend  where  the  shoot  comes  up  again.  The  cut  can  be 
kept  open  by  putting  in  a  small  stone  or  piece  of  glass 
or  peat,  or  a  piece  of  the  leaf  or  stalk  of  the  Rose  itself. 

I  have  employed  this  method  myself  for  some  of  the 
species,  such  as  R.  Seraphini,  which  do  not  seem  to  root 
readily  from  autumn  cuttings  in  the  open,  and  for  new 


76      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

varieties  of  R.  rugosa,  and  new  climbers  planted  in  spring 
which  I  wished  to  increase  at  once  without  budding.  Of 
course,  layering  takes  rather  more  room  than  cuttings. 

Suckers. — Many  Roses  on  their  own  roots  make  suckers 
readily.  Suckers  are  underground  roots,  or  root-like  stems, 
which  come  to  the  surface  and  form  a  shoot.  The 
suckers  are  removed  from  the  parent  plant  by  cutting 
the  root,  or  root-like  stem,  close  to  the  parent  stem  and 
planting  the  suckers  elsewhere.  This  is  done  most  con- 
veniently in  autumn.  The  suckers  generally  form  plants 
without  difficulty. 

In  order  to  make  certain  of  the  sucker  rooting  during 
the  summer,  the  soil  may  be  removed  and  a  V-shaped 
notch  may  be  cut  in  the  sucker  where  it  joins  the  parent 
stem.  The  sucker  will  soon  form  roots  at  this  cut,  and 
when  it  is  moved  in  the  autumn  will  have  roots  of  its  own. 
This  is,  however,  not  generally  necessary. 

Most  of  the  varieties  which  have  come  from  R. 
spinosissima,  like  the  Scotch  Roses,  Altaica,  Hispida,  and 
Xanthina,  are  most  easily  increased  in  this  way.  So  is 
R.  nitida  and  many  of  the  varieties  of  R.  rugosa. 

Division — Where  by  constant  manuring  the  surface 
of  the  beds  has  gradually  been  raised,  some  varieties  of 
Roses  of  branching  habit  will  often  produce  roots  from 
the  underground  stems.  I  have  found  this  with  Chinas, 
Polyanthas,  and  Teas.  The  Roses  may  then  be  propagated 
by  digging  up  the  plant  in  autumn,  and  cutting  off  with  a 
sharp  knife  any  stems  which  have  produced  roots. 

This  method  is  specially  convenient  for  the  dwarf 
Chinas  ;  a  single  plant  may  sometimes  give  as  many  as 
half-a-dozen  little  plants  by  division. 


CHAPTER    X 

EXHIBITING 

The  culture  of  plants  intended  to  produce  exhibition 
flowers  differs  only  in  degree  from  that  of  Roses  which  are 
cultivated  simply  for  the  adornment  of  the  garden.  To 
begin  at  the  beginning,  the  exhibitor  will  have  to  consider 
how  many  plants  he  proposes  to  grow,  and  what  proportion 
of  them  are  to  be  cut-backs  {i.e.  Roses  older  than  one  year 
from  the  bud  which  are  pruned  in  the  spring)  and  what 
proportion  "maidens,"  which  are  plants  which  have  been 
budded  not  more  than  a  season.  There  are  probably  few 
exhibitors  of  any  standing  who  do  not  bud  a  good  many  of 
their  own  Roses,  with  the  double  object  of  obtaining  finer 
flowers  and  prolonging  the  season  over  which  they  can 
obtain  exhibition  blooms.  Mr.  Pemberton  advises  the  ex- 
hibitor who  desires  to  be  amongst  the  successful  to  grow 
two  maidens  for  every  cut-back  plant.  This  is  a  high  pro- 
portion of  maidens,  but  I  know  some  who  are  accustomed 
to  grow  even  a  larger  proportion.  The  ordinary  amateur, 
however,  will  generally  be  content  with  a  very  much 
smaller  proportion  of  maidens.  With  most  of  us  the  ques- 
tion of  time  is  an  important  consideration,  and  if  we 
annually  bud  about  one-sixth  of  our  collection,  it  is  as 
much  as  we  can  manage.  When  an  amateur  first  begins 
budding,  he  need  not  be  seriously  concerned  if  he  finds 


78      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

that  he  loses  some  50  per  cent,  of  the  buds  he  puts  in. 
As  he  gains  experience  the  proportion  of  successes  will  be 
greater,  but  the  novice  must  neither  be  surprised  nor  dis- 
heartened if,  for  the  first  few  years,  his  maiden  plants  fail  to 
come  up  to  his  expectations.  Some  of  the  buds  will  not 
"take,"  and  by  the  time  he  has  discovered  this  it  is  too 
late  in  the  season  to  bud  again.  Others  may  take  well,  but 
the  spring  frosts  prove  too  severe  for  them,  while  of  those 
that  grow,  some  will  be  destroyed  by  grubs  and  others 
develop  so  late  as  to  be  useless. 

My  advice  to  the  novice  is  to  rely  chiefly  on  his  cut- 
backs, and  gradually  to  acquire  experience  in  growing 
maidens.  Further,  his  early  attempts  at  budding  should 
be  with  the  H.P.  varieties  and  the  more  robust  of  the 
Hybrid  Teas. 

As  to  the  varieties  to  be  selected,  reference  may  be  made 
to  the  chapter  on  Exhibition  Roses.  The  selection  should 
include  H.P.'s,  H.T.'s,  and  Teas,  and  the  novice  will  be  well 
advised  to  select  a  large  proportion  of  H.T.'s.  It  is  easier 
to  obtain  a  fair  proportion  of  good  flowers  for  exhibition 
from  H.T.'s  than  either  from  Hybrid  Perpetuals  or  from 
Teas,  but  something  will  depend  on  the  nature  of  the  soil 
in  his  garden.  If  it  be  good  Rose  soil,  he  might  take  two- 
thirds  of  his  selection  from  the  Hybrid  Teas,  and  one-third 
in  about  equal  proportions  from  the  H.P.'s  and  Teas. 
Should  his  soil  be  heavy,  he  should  increase  the  pro- 
portion of  Hybrid  Perpetuals ;  if  light,  he  may  grow 
more  Teas. 

Then,  in  choosing  the  varieties,  it  will  be  well  to  grow  a 
fair  number  of  plants  of  the  varieties  on  which  it  is  pro- 
posed  chiefly   to   rely.     In   other  words,   the   number  of 


PREPARING    FOR    EXHIBITION     79 

varieties  chosen  should  not  be  too  large.  He  should  grow, 
say,  20  plants  each  of  25  varieties,  rather  than  loo  varieties 
and  5  of  each. 

In  planting,  it  is  only  necessary  to  give  strict  attention 
to  the  ordinary  rules  for  preparing  the  beds,  and  planting 
the  trees,  bearing  in  mind  that,  to  ensure  firm  growth,  firm 
planting  is  necessary.  Winter  protection  can  be  given  by 
drawing  the  soil  or  placing  burnt  earth  round  the  stems, 
and  removing  it  in  spring. 

Pruning  will  follow  generally  the  lines  laid  down  for 
the  special  varieties,  but  it  must  be  severe  to  secure  show 
blooms.  Usually  from  two  to  three  eyes  of  the  best  shoots 
of  the  previous  year  only  should  be  retained,  and  the  cutting 
out  of  all  unnecessary  or  weak  growth  should  be  thorough. 
It  is  not  generally  advisable  to  cut  back  to  the  older  wood, 
though  it  can  sometimes  be  done  in  the  case  of  the  Teas. 
The  exhibitor  will  care  little  for  the  shape  of  his  plant, 
and  will  retain  an  extra  strong  shoot  if  well  ripened,  even 
though  badly  placed. 

Next  to  the  importance  of  pruning  is  manuring.  A 
good  dressing  of  well-rotted  manure  should  be  lightly 
forked  into  the  beds  as  soon  as  the  pruning  is  finished,  and 
later,  when  vigorous  growth  has  begun,  say  towards  the  end 
of  the  first  fortnight  in  May,  liberal  applications  of  liquid 
manure  should  be  given  every  week  or  ten  days.  If  possible, 
the  liquid  manure  should  be  given  after  rain,  and  it  must 
be  well  diluted.     It  is  far  better  too  weak  than  too  strong. 

At  the  same  time  as  the  supply  of  liquid  manure  is 
begun,  the  thinning  out  of  unnecessary  buds  and  shoots 
is  commenced.  A  knowledge  of  the  individual  varieties  is 
essential  for  the  proper  carrying  out  of  this  work.     All  the 


8o      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

shoots  should  be  removed  except  those  intended  to  carry 
the  flowers. 

In  many  cases  perhaps  only  two  or  three  shoots  will 
be  retained,  as,  for  instance,  in  Horace  Vernet ;  and 
sometimes  one  or  two,  as  in  the  case  of  Marquise  Litta 
or  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  while  in  others  more  are  allowable 

Mrs.  John  Laing  may  be  allowed  four,  and  La  France 

six  or  even  more  shoots. 

When  the  flower-buds  at  the  top  of  the  shoot  begin  to 
form,  the  side  buds  should  be  taken  out  as  soon  as  they 
can  be  handled,  unless  the  appearance  of  the  central  bud  is 
unsatisfactory,  or  it  has  been  eaten  or  otherwise  injured. 
In  the  latter  case  the  side  buds  should  be  allowed  to  take 
its  place.  Many  advise  that  this  disbudding  be  done 
gradually,  and  if  the  side  buds  have  been  allowed  to 
develop  to  any  considerable  size,  this  is  right.  But  if  the 
disbudding  is  done  as  soon  as  the  side  buds  are  formed, 
and  before  they  begin  to  grow,  I  do  not  think  any  harm 
is  done  by  removing  them  all  at  the  same  time.  Some 
growers,  however,  like  to  retain  one  for  a  time  in  case  of 
accidents,  and  this  is  my  own  practice. 

During  the  time  the  buds  are  developing  they  must  be 
carefully  examined,  and  if  the  centre  bud  is  not  poised  fair 
and  upright  on  its  stem,  or  if  it  begins  to  show  colour  on 
one  side  before  it  is  time  for  it  to  open,  or  if  the  top  of  the 
bud  looks  as  though  it  were  cut  off  flat  and  is  not  covered 
nicely  by  the  pointed  sepals,  it  may  be  removed,  and  the 
side  bud  which  has  been  retained  allowed  to  develop  in  its 
place.  It  is,  however,  important  not  to  delay  this  examina- 
tion until  too  late  a  stage. 

Certain  H.T.  varieties,  in  their  first  bloom,  produce  only 


SHADES  8i 

one  flower  at  the  top  of  the  stem,  and  in  such  cases  there  is 
not  the  same  choice  as  in  the  case  of  the  H.P.'s. 

In  the  case  of  the  Teas,  although  the  character  of  the 
growth  differs,  substantially  the  same  method  of  culture 
must  be  followed. 

As  soon  as  the  buds  are  ready  to  burst  measures  must 
be  taken  to  protect  them  from  excessive  sun  and  rain. 
There  are  various  forms  of  shades  on  the  market.  Some 
made  of  Willesden  paper  have  certain  advantages  of  storage, 
but  I  have  found  nothing  better  than  Mr.  West's  shades 
made  of  light  calico  on  a  wire  frame  in  the  form  of  a  short 
pointed  cone,  so  designed  as  to  slide  up  and  down  a  square 
stick.  The  usual  size,  however,  7  inches  in  diameter  at  the 
base,  is  rather  small,  and  I  prefer  those  of  13  inches  dia- 
meter, though  there  is  an  intermediate  size  of  10  inches 
which  is  very  useful. 

The  manipulation  of  these  shades  during  the  days 
immediately  preceding  the  show  requires  much  time,  for 
it  is  not  well  to  keep  them  closely  over  the  flowers  during 
the  daytime  ;  but  when  the  weather  allows,  they  should  be 
raised,  or  the  flowers  will  become  dull  and  more  or  less 
colourless. 

Most  exhibitors  now  tie  their  Roses  for  travelling  to  the 
show,  and  many  begin  to  tie  them  on  the  plants  two  or 
three  days  before  cutting  them.  The  tying  is  effected  by 
taking  a  piece  of  soft  Berlin  wool,  4  or  5  inches  long,  and 
tying  it  loosely  round  the  inner  petals,  leaving  the  two  outer 
rows  of  petals  free.  The  wool  is  secured  by  a  double  twist, 
so  that  it  may  be  readily  loosened,  and  will  even  pull  out  as 
the  flower  expands.  It  should  not  be  tied  in  a  fixed  knot. 
The  value  of  tying  the  blooms  on  the  plant  is  one  on  which 

F 


82      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

opinions  differ  very  much.  My  own  experience  is  that  I 
have  spoiled  quite  as  many,  or  more,  flowers  than  I  have 
improved  by  the  process,  and  I  am  tending  more  and  more 
to  restrict  my  tying  to  travelling  ;  but  the  practice  is  so 
largely  followed  by  exhibitors  so  much  more  successful 
than  myself,  that  I  only  venture  to  put  forward  my  own 
views  with  considerable  diffidence.  However  that  may  be, 
it  is  a  rule  that  admits  no  exception,  that  when  once  a  flower 
is  tied  it  must  be  shaded,  and  that  carefully. 

Boxes  of  the  regulation  size  must  be  purchased,  and 
should  have  alternative  trays  in  the  larger  sizes  so  that  they 
may  be  used  for  trebles.  A  few  days  before  the  show,  a 
sufficient  supply  of  moss  from  the  hedges  or  woods  should 
be  secured  and  placed  on  the  trays  before  cutting  begins. 
Sometimes  Saxifrage  is  used,  but  I  think  moss  is  better. 

I  need  say  little  about  tubes,  for  Foster's  tubes  and  wires 
are  now  well  known,  and  there  is  nothing  better.  They 
consist  of  an  outer  tube  to  hold  the  water,  and  an  inner  one 
in  which  a  strong  wire  fits,  to  which  the  Rose  is  attached  by 
a  piece  of  soft  wire,  bound  round  the  strong  one.  It  is  well 
to  have  all  these  wire  supports  taken  out  of  the  tubes  and 
disentangled  before  cutting  any  blooms,  or  valuable  time 
may  be  lost.  Perhaps  I  may  add  that  Mr.  West's  ingenious 
clip,  designed  to  raise  and  hold  the  outer  tube,  is  a  great 
improvement  on  the  older  method  of  raising  the  inner  tube 
only  by  means  of  a  rubber  band.  This  plan  sometimes 
leads  to  the  Rose  being  hoisted  right  out  of  the  water. 

Cutting  the  flowers  for  the  show  is  now  generally  done 
the  afternoon  and  evening  before  the  show.  It  was  formerly 
the  custom  to  do  this  early  in  the  morning,  from  three  to 
six  o'clock  on  the  show  day  itself,  but  in  the  case  of  the 


DECORATIVE    ROSES  83 

Teas  and  Hybrid  Teas  nothing  is  gained  by  so  doing,  and, 
in  the  case  of  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  very  Httle.  If  the  show 
is  quite  close  at  hand,  perhaps  a  few  of  the  H.P.'s  may  be 
a  httle  fresher  if  picked  in  the  morning,  but  the  difference 
is  so  slight  as  hardly  to  make  it  worth  while.  It  is  a  great 
comfort  to  go  to  bed  knowing  your  boxes  are  all  ready  for 
the  early  start  in  the  morning,  and  I  think  the  morning 
cutting  may  well  be  confined  to  a  rapid  examination  of  a 
few  blossoms  that  have  been  marked  for  the  purpose  of 
reconsideration  on  the  previous  day. 

Finally,  each  Rose  must  be  labelled  as  it  is  picked,  and 
to  avoid  loss  of  time,  it  is  well  to  have  the  labels  arranged 
in  a  little  brown  holland  satchel  with  some  twenty-four 
or  twenty-six  divisions,  each  division  for  a  letter  of  the 
alphabet.  If  the  labelling  is  left  till  arrival  at  the  show 
mistakes  may  occur,  and  perhaps  duplicates  creep  in  with- 
out being  noticed. 

In  addition  to  his  exhibition  boxes  the  exhibitor  should 
also  take  with  him  to  the  show  a  box  for  spare  blooms, 
which  may  be  required  to  replace  any  that  have  "  flown  " 
during  the  journey  or  on  removing  the  ties.  This  box, 
like  the  exhibition  boxes,  should  also  be  fitted  with  tubes, 
and  the  Roses  set  up  for  instant  removal  to  the  exhibition 
box.  All  the  spare  Roses  should  be  younger  blooms  than 
those  they  may  be  required  to  replace. 

DECORATIVE  ROSES 

The  preparation  of  decorative  Roses  for  exhibition 
requires  as  much  time  and  attention  as  are  necessary  for 
the  exhibition  varieties. 


84      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

In  the  case  of  climbing  Roses  little  can  be  done  to 
protect  them.  They  should  be  picked  with  long  stalks, 
but  only  of  the  current  year's  growth.  As  soon  as  they 
are  picked,  the  bunches  must  be  carefully  "cleaned  up." 
In  the  case  of  the  singles,  and  some  of  the  cluster  Roses, 
all  the  old  flowers  should  be  removed  with  a  sharp  pair  of 
pointed  scissors,  leaving  only  the  opening  buds  in  order 
that  the  stamens  of  those  left  may  be  fresh  and  bright.  A 
knowledge  of  the  individual  varieties  is  necessary  to  do  this 
well,  but  as  a  rule,  and  specially  in  the  case  of  the  Briars, 
all  fully  expanded  flowers  may  be  cut  off  and  only  the 
buds  left  to  open.  As  soon  as  this  is  done  they  should 
be  plunged  to  their  heads  in  water,  so  that  they  may  have 
a  good  drink  before  starting  on  their  journey. 

In  the  case  of  the  dwarf  Roses  used  in  the  decorative 
classes,  such  as  Griiss  an  Teplitz,  Liberty,  Mme.  Abel 
Chatenay,  Mme.  Ravary,  and  Richmond,  no  thinning  of 
shoots  is  necessary,  but  a  certain  amount  of  disbudding  is 
often  required.  If  a  spell  of  bad  weather  sets  in,  protection 
must  be  given,  and  I  have  resorted  to  all  sorts  of  devices 
for  this  purpose  in  a  bad  year  like  19  lo.  The  ordinary 
shades  used  for  protecting  the  exhibition  Roses  are  very 
little  use — something  to  cover  a  larger  area  is  wanted.  We 
have  found  very  useful  shades  for  this  purpose  can  be  made 
out  of  ordinary  slating  battens  of  2  X  |  inch  deal.  These 
are  roughly  shaped  and  nailed  together  to  form  the  frame 
of  a  little  penthouse,  about  5  feet  long  by  2  feet  broad, 
and  covered  with  white  calico.  The  frames  are  supported 
by  a  similar  batten  at  each  end,  in  which  holes  are  bored 
to  receive  a  round  stick,  by  moving  which  the  little  pent- 
house can  be  raised  or  lowered. 


ARRANGING    ROSES  85 

We  have  also  found  some  light  garden  frames  called,  I 
believe,  "  The  Triumph,"  very  useful.  These  are  4  feet  or 
6  feet  long  by  2  feet  broad  and  covered  with  glass,  and 
they  can  be  procured  from  most  horticultural  sundriesmen. 
They  are  very  light,  and  can  be  supported  by  large  inverted 
pots.  An  ordinary  pit  light  will  also  serve  at  a  pinch,  and 
can  be  supported  by  seed-boxes — or  loose  bricks  built  into 
small  pillars. 

These  Roses  produce  a  much  more  decorative  effect 
when  cut  with  long  stems,  but,  as  with  the  climbing  Roses, 
only  the  current  year's  wood  must  be  cut,  or  they  will  not 
take  up  water  well  and  will  soon  wither.  Scraping  the 
bark  and  slitting  the  stems  with  a  sharp  knife  is  useful 
in  helping  Roses  with  long  stems  to  bear  the  atmosphere 
of  a  hot  tent,  for  it  enables  them  to  take  up  water  the 
more  readily. 

The  arrangement  of  decorative  Roses  is  an  art  in  itself, 
and  affords  large  scope  for  the  exercise  of  individual  taste. 
The  object  must  be  to  produce  a  light  and  graceful  effect 
and  display  the  full  beauty  of  the  flowers,  without  making 
the  bunches  straggling  and  untidy.  Anything,  however,  is 
better  than  bunching  them  tightly  together  so  that  the  form 
and  beauty  of  the  individual  flowers  are  lost  in  a  mass  of 
colour.  After  the  bunch  is  arranged  the  judicious  use  of 
the  scissors  in  the  removal  of  flowers  that  are  not  wanted 
or  are  passing  over  is  often  very  effective.  In  a  vase  of 
decorative  Roses  freshness  is  of  the  utmost  importance  ;  a 
single  faded  blossom  will  often  spoil  a  good  bunch. 


CHAPTER   XI 

SELECTIONS  AND   DESCRIPTIONS 

The  selection  of  Roses  for  any  particular  purpose  is 
nowadays  one  of  considerable  difficulty.  When  M. 
Thouviet  published  the  catalogue  of  M.  Jules  Gra- 
veraux'  garden  at  I'Hay  in  1902  he  included  6781 
varieties.  Since  then  the  new  varieties  have  increased 
at  a  great  rate,  probably  about  one  hundred  a  year,  and, 
besides  the  older  varieties,  many  of  these  deserve  con- 
sideration. 

I  should  like  to  go  through  all  that  I  have  concerned 
myself  with  in  my  own  or  my  friends'  gardens,  but  in 
a  book  of  this  sort  that  is  obviously  impracticable.  I 
must  limit  myself  somewhat  narrowly.  Meanwhile,  as 
I  must  start  somewhere,  I  am  reminded  of  the  Walrus  : 
"With  sobs  and  tears  he  sorted  out,  those  of  the  largest 
size  "  ;  so  to  the  exhibition  Roses  I  shall  turn. 


EXHIBITION    ROSES: 
H.P.  AND   H.T.   VARIETIES 

For   some    twenty-four    years    Mr.    Mawley   has    kept 
a   record   of    the    Roses   in    prize-winning   stands   at    tlie 


EXHIBITION    H.P.'S    AND    H.T.'S     87 

Metropolitan    Show   of   the  N.R.S.     The   first   twenty-five 
H.P.'s  and  H.T.'s  appear  in  the  following  order  ; — 


Bessie  Brown. 

Mildred  Grant. 

Dean  Hole. 

Frau  Karl  Druschki. 

Mrs.  John  Laing. 

Caroline  Testout. 

Ulrich  Brunner. 

J.  B.  Clark. 

Florence  Pemberton. 

Mts.  W.  J.  Grant. 

Lady  Ashtown. 

Hugh  Dickson. 

Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt. 


William  Shean. 
Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria. 
The  Lyons  Rose. 
A.  K.  Williams. 
Gustave  Piganeau. 
Alice  Lindsell. 
Horace  Vernet. 
Mrs.  R.  G.  Sharman  Craw- 
ford. 
Suzanne  Marie  Rodocanachi. 
La  France. 
Helen  Keller. 
Capt.  Hayward. 


Taking  their  colours,  this  list  gives  us  five  white,  two 
blush,  ten  pink,  and  eight  red  shades. 

Now,  we  may  or  may  not  like  these  particular  Roses 
ourselves,  but  it  is  a  stubborn  fact,  from  which  there 
is  no  getting  away,  that  down  to  the  present  they  have 
been  the  Roses  that  have  won  awards  for  the  exhibitor. 

Bessie  Brown  has  held  its  position  at  the  head  of 
the  list  for  five  years.  It  is  creamy-white  in  colour, 
and  at  its  best  is  a  beautiful  Rose  for  box  or  specimen 
glass.  It  is  purely  an  exhibition  Rose  ;  though  a  good 
grower,  it  is  useless  for  garden  decoration,  on  account 
of  its  abominable  trick  of  hanging  its  head.  I  have  seen 
people  resort  to  many  devices  to  try  to  remedy  this 
defect,  some  tying  it  up  to  a  stick  or  wire.  It  is  said 
that  in  America  Bessie  Brown  holds  her  head  up  naturally, 
so    perhaps    there  is  something  in   our  gardens  she  does 


88      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

not  like.  If  the  amateur  desires  to  grow  this  variety 
for  its  few  beautiful  flowers,  he  should  carefully  hide 
it  away  from  ordinary  garden  traffic. 

Mildred  Grant  is  a  very  pale  flesh,  slightly  deeper  in 
the  centre,  at  its  best  a  beautiful  flower.  The  growth 
is  stiff  and  sturdy  and  the  head  held  well  up,  so  I  allow 
it  in  the  garden  for  its  beauty,  though  it  is  primarily  an 
exhibition   Rose,  not  very  vigorous  in  habit. 

Dean  Hole. — Light  silvery  pink,  the  outside  of  the 
petal  being  slightly  darker,  the  petals  curl  over,  some- 
what after  the  way  of  La  France.  This  Rose  "  comes " 
easily  in  fairly  good  weather,  and  the  flower  is  large 
with  a  high  pointed  centre.  The  plant  is  vigorous,  and 
it  is  useful  in  the  garden  after  the  exhibition  season  is 
over,  being  very  free-flowering.  It  has,  however,  prac- 
tically no  fragrance,  and  is  nearly  useless  in  very  wet 
weather,  as  it  stains  easily  and  does  not  keep  fresh  if 
much  shaded. 

Frau  Karl  Druschki. — This  is  the  best  white  exhibition 
Rose,  being  perfect  in  shape  and  substance  of  petal,  a 
pure  white,^  and  capable  of  being  obtained  in  good 
form  in  all  weathers.  It  is  good  both  in  summer  and 
autumn,  and  being  very  free-flowering,  is  a  useful  garden 
Rose,  the  climbing  form  making  a  fine  pillar  Rose. 
Perhaps  there  is  no  Rose  that  can  be  counted  on  more 
certainly  during  the  whole  of  the  showing  season  to 
give  a  good  exhibition  flower  somewhere  in  the  bed. 
Its  defects  are,  first,  that  it  has  no  fragrance,  and  secondly, 
its  autumn  growth  is  so  vigorous  as  to  make  it  rather 
unmanageable  in  beds  in  the  garden. 

^  The  slight  splashes  of  red  in  the  bud  arc  not  noticeable  in  the  open  flower. 


EXHIBITION    H.P.'S    AND    H.T.'S     89 

Mrs.  John  Laing. — This  variety  was  a  gold  medal  Rose 
in  the  days  when  the  N.R.S.  was  accustomed  to  give 
only  one  medal  in  the  year,  instead  of  ten  or  a  dozen 
as  now.  The  colour  is  bright  rosy-pink,  and  the  fragrance 
delightful.  It  will  stand  both  shading  and  tying  up  to 
a  moderate  extent,  and  is  an  easy  Rose  to  show,  always 
provided  you  limit  the  number  of  blooms  on  the  plant. 
One  of  my  friends,  who  is  an  able  exhibitor,  holds  that 
if  the  plant  carries  four  blossoms  every  one  of  them  will 
be  exhibition  flowers ;  if  six,  not  one  will  be  worth 
looking  at.  It  is  a  useful  Rose  in  the  garden ;  free- 
flowering  for  a  H.P.,  but  perhaps  a  little  stiff  and  some- 
what liable  to  mildew. 

Caroline  Testout. — This  is  also  a  pink  Rose  of  a  bright 
and  warm  tone.  A  Rose  for  every  garden,  and  every 
weather.  How  nobly  it  responded  in  the  last  two  dread- 
fully wet  summers  I  The  climbing  sport  is  also  most 
useful,  and  I  believe  that,  sometimes,  it  produces  even 
better  Roses  than  the  dwarf  variety.  The  shape  of  the 
flower  is  perhaps  rather  too  rounded  to  please  some. 
"Full  and  globular,"  the  catalogues  call  it.  A  most  useful 
Rose  for  standard,  dwarf  bush,  pillar,  arch  or  pergola. 
Its  full  flowers  are  rather  heavy  for  arranging  in  vases 
except  as  specimens. 

Ulrich  Brunner  is  cherry-red  in  colour,  and  grows  like 
a  weed.  It  may  be  grown  equally  easily  in  or  out-of-doors. 
It  is  not  very  free-flowering,  and  I  like  neither  its  shape 
nor  colour  ;  still,  many  exhibitors  would  be  sorry  to  be 
without  it. 

/.  B.  Clark. — A  tremendous  grower  is  this  Rose,  and 
it  makes  a  fine  standard.     One  of  the  best  ways  of  grow- 


90     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

ing  this  variety  is  to  peg  down  about  four  young  shoots 
each  year,  cutting  off  the  others.  So  treated,  it  gives  a  fair 
number  of  flowers  of  exhibition  quahty,  and  they  can  be 
easily  protected  when  necessary.  The  flowers  require 
shading  to  get  them  at  their  best.  This  Rose  can  be  reHed 
upon  to  furnish  big  flowers,  sometimes  of  a  fine  colour. 
It  has,  however,  very  little  fragrance,  and  often  comes  with 
a  split  centre. 

Florence  Pemberton  at  its  best  is  a  lovely  Rose,  in  colour 
creamy-white  with  a  picotee  edge  of  pink.  It  requires 
good  cultivation. 

Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  (H.T.)  is  to  my  mind  one  of  our 
most  beautiful  Roses.  The  only  failing  is  that  the  plant  is 
weak,  and  in  my  experience  not  very  long  lived.  Its  climb- 
ing sport  is,  however,  vigorous,  and  I  sometimes  think 
produces  as  good  or  better  flowers.  The  colour  is  Imperial 
pink — a  bright  pink  with  a  suspicion  of  vermilion  in  it. 
It  is  an  early  Rose,  and  very  free-flowering,  therefore 
disbudding  must  be  carried  out  if  exhibition  flowers  are 
wanted.  It  has  a  fine  form  with  high  pointed  centre,  not 
very  full,  but  stands  well. 

Lady  Ashtown  (H.T.)  is  also  very  free-flowering,  and 
must  be  disbudded  to  get  exhibition  flowers.  When  so 
grown  the  flower  is  too  heavy  for  the  stalk,  so  for  garden 
purposes  it  is  well  not  to  allow  the  Rose  to  come  too  big. 
The  half-open  buds  are  beautiful  for  decoration.  It  is 
one  of  the  best  bedding  Roses,  but  liable  to  mildew.  The 
colour  is  deep  pink. 

Hugh  Dickson  (H.P.,  1904)  is  a  fine,  strong-growing 
Rose  either  for  the  garden  or  for  exhibition,  but  too 
rampant    to    make    a    good    bedder.     It    has    a    delicious 


EXHIBITION    H.P.'S    AND    H.T.'S     91 

scent,  and  is  a  good  crimson,  shaded  with  scarlet.  The 
shape  is  somewhat  rounded.  It  is  quite  among  the  best 
crimsons,  and  useful  in  the  garden  as  a  border  Rose  or  for 
pegging  down. 

Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt  (H.T.,  1903),  light  flesh,  tinted 
pink ;  a  descendant  from  La  France.  I  think  no  Rose  in 
my  garden  gives  me  a  larger  proportion  of  perfectly- 
shaped,  exhibition  flowers,  and  little  disbudding  is  neces- 
sary. It  is  one  of  the  best  Roses  for  exhibitors  with 
small  gardens. 

William  Shean  (H.T.,  1906).— This  Rose  has  little 
but  its  size  to  recommend  it.  I  like  neither  its  shape 
nor  colour,  which  is  a  rather  dead  pink.  If  much 
shaded  it  soon  looks  dull,  and  the  flowers  will  not  with- 
stand wet. 

Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria  (H.T.,  1891)  is  cream,  tinted 
lemon,  in  colour,  and  not  a  strong  grower,  though  it  has 
a  cHmbing  sport  which  no  treatment  seems  able  to  induce 
to  flower  anywhere  except  at  the  top.  I  have  discarded 
it  in  favour  of  its  sport  Perle  von  Godesberg  (H.T.,  1902), 
which  I  find  much  more  satisfactory  ;  so  also  is  a  very 
similar  Rose,  Mrs.  David  M'Kee  (H.T.,  1904) — a  great 
acquisition  to  the  Roses  of  this  class. 

The  Lyons  Rose  (H.T.,  1907). — This  beautiful  Rose  is 
a  shrimp  pink  with  orange  yellow  at  the  base  of  the  petals, 
but  the  colour  varies  to  nearly  all  pink.  It  makes  a  good 
exhibition  Rose,  the  flower  being  generally  pointed  and 
well-shaped,  but  at  times  the  centre  is  weak.  It  has  a 
curious  habit  of  making  horizontally  spreading  growths, 
and  an  objectionable  one  of  losing  its  leaves  early  in 
autumn.     It  is  badly  susceptible  to  black  spot ;  nevertheless 


92      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

it  is  a  lovely  Rose  which  all  should  grow,  and  the  plant 
fairly  hardy,  but  autumn  growths  are  often  killed  by  frost. 
It  should  be  pruned  severely. 

A.  K.  Williams  (H.P.,  1877). — Perhaps  none  of  the  red 
Roses  comes  more  consistently  of  a  perfect  imbricated 
shape  than  the  variety  A.  K.  Williams,  but  its  lasting  powers 
when  cut  are  not  great.  Its  constitution  as  a  "cut  back" 
is  generally  weakly,  but  excellent  flowers  are  obtained 
from  maidens.  The  colour  is  a  bright  red,  but  not  so 
good  as  Captain  Hayward.  It  has  a  fine  Rose  perfume, 
but  is  not  free-flowering. 

Gustave  Piganeau  (H.P.,  1889). — This  is  only  an  exhibi- 
tion Rose,  and  has  a  weakly  constitution.  The  colour  is 
not  to  my  fancy,  being  between  carmine  and  a  washy 
crimson  lake  (from  the  paint-box  of  one's  youth).  Its 
redeeming  feature  is  its  fragrance. 

Alice  Lindsell  (H.T.,  1902)  is  creamy-white,  with  a  pink 
centre.  The  plant  is  vigorous  and  the  flower  large  and 
lumpy.     Still,  many  obtain  fine  blooms  from  it. 

Horace  Vernet  (H.P.,  1866). — A  most  lovely  Rose,  perfect 
in  shape  and  deep  scarlet-crimson  in  colour,  with  a  delicious 
perfume.  At  its  best  this  Rose  is  unequalled,  but  many  of 
the  flowers  on  the  plant  are  not  of  the  best.  It  is  usual  to 
say,  "  Best  as  a  maiden,"  but  I  have  had  quite  as  many 
beautiful  flowers  from  cut-back  plants.  Copious  supplies 
of  very  weak  liquid  manure  are  necessary. 

Mrs.  R.  G.  Sharman  Crawford  (H.P.,  1894)  is  a  clear, 
soft  pink ;  the  petals  with  slightly  crinkled  edges ;  it  is 
beautiful  and  reliable,  its  strong  point  being  its  pure  colour. 
It  produces  exhibition  flowers  with  very  little  trouble,  but 
is  rather  given  to  mildew. 


PLATE   V 

DOROTHY   PERKINS   (WICHURAIANA) 

This  climber  may  be  described  as  the  best  Rose  of  the  Wichu- 
raiana  type.  The  flowers  are  frequently  more  pink  than  shown  in 
the  illustration. 


EXHIBITION    H.P.'S    AND    H.T.'S     95 

Suzanne  Marie  Rodocanachi  (H.P.,  1883)  is  generally 
described  as  glowing  rose,  but  there  is  a  tinge  of  red  in 
the  colouring.  It  is  a  grand  flower  of  globular  form,  easily 
grown  as  a  dwarf  or  standard,  and  useful  both  early  and 
late.     It  has  no  fault,  unless  it  is  its  name. 

La  France  (H.T.,  1867)  was  the  first  Hybrid  Tea  Rose, 
and  who  does  not  kAow  this  charming  flower  ?  The  colour 
is  silvery  rose,  tinged  with  pale,  scarcely  perceptible  lilac, 
the  edges  of  the  petals  being  reflexed  and  more  silvery, 
and  the  fragrance  is  delightful.  Unfortunately  in  some 
gardens  it  is  given  to  the  objectionable  habit  of  "  balling  " 
and  refusing  to  open,  especially  in  damp  weather.  If  this 
is  found  to  be  persistent  two  remedies  may  be  tried  ;  one  is 
to  grow  the  plant  from  cuttings  on  its  own  roots,  and  the 
other  to  try  the  climbing  sport,  which  often  succeeds  where 
La  France  itself  is  unsatisfactory. 

Helen  Keller  (H.P.,  1895)  is  a  beautifully  shaped  Rose, 
seldom  malformed,  but  useful  for  exhibition  only.  It  is  not 
a  strong  grower,  and  I  do  not  like  the  colour,  which  is  rosy- 
cerise,  but  it  is  fragrant  and  the  petals  are  of  good  substance. 

Captain  Hayward  (H.P.,  1893). — Light  scarlet-crimson 
in  colour,  this  beautiful  and  useful  Rose  is  somewhat  loose- 
petaled  and  not  very  full.  It  is  therefore  at  its  best  in  a 
cool  season.  It  has  fine,  vigorous  growth,  and  is  easy  to 
manage.  A  pathetic  interest  attaches  to  this  Rose  in  that 
its  raiser,  Mr.  Bennett,  did  not  live  to  see  it  flower. 

Other  good  exhibition  Roses,  which  I  have  no  space  to 
deal  with  here,  are  : — 

Charles  J.  Grahame  (crimson). 

Commandant  Felix  Faure  (dark  crimson  with  vermilion 
shading). 


96     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

Killarney  (pink). 

Mine.  Mdanie  Souperi  (pale  yellow  and  old  gold). 

Marquise  Litta  (a  weak  grower,  carmine). 

Lady  Moira  Beauderc  (pink). 

Compte  de  Raimhaud  (crimson). 

Avoca  (scarlet-crimson)  ;  one  of  the  very  best. 

Victor  Hugo  (brilliant  crimson). 


EXHIBITION  TEA  ROSES 

The  list  of  Tea  Roses  successful  in  exhibition  boxes  is, 
of  course,  smaller,  and  I  take  the  first  eighteen.  They  find 
their  places  in  the  following  order  : — 


I. 

White  Maman  Cochet. 

ID. 

The  Bride. 

2. 

Mme.  Jules  Graveraux. 

II. 

Mme.  Constant  Soupert. 

3- 

Mrs.  Edward  Mawley. 

12. 

Catherine  Mermet. 

4- 

Maman  Cochet. 

13- 

Innocente  Pirola. 

5- 

Souvenir  de  Pierre  Netting. 

14. 

Bridesmaid. 

6. 

Medea. 

15- 

Souvenir  de  S.  A.  Prince. 

7- 

Muriel  Grahame. 

16. 

Mme.  Cusin. 

8. 

Molly  Sharman  Crawford. 

17- 

Souvenir  d'un  Ami. 

9- 

Comtesse  de  Nadaillac. 

18. 

Souvenir  d'Elise  Vardon. 

The  list  contains  six  white  or  cream-coloured  Roses,  six 
of  various  shades  of  pink,  four  of  various  shades  of  yellow, 
and  two  of  flesh. 

White  Maman  Cochet  (T.,  1897)  is  a  nearly  pure  white 
Rose,  but  just  tinged  with  lemon.  It  has  a  high  pointed 
centre,  with  much  substance  and  depth  of  petal.  The 
flowers  are  apt  to  come  with  a  split  centre.  The  shoots 
from  the  base  of  the  plant  at  first  grow  upwards,  afterwards 
bending  over.     All    the  flowers   droop   head  downwards ; 


EXHIBITION    TEA    ROSES         97 

hence  it  does  not  make  a  good  garden  plant,  which  is  a 
pity,  for  the  foliage  is  good  and  persistent.  The  Rose  will 
not  stand  much  rain,  the  heavy  heads  becoming  rotten, 
and  the  outer  petals  getting  brown  and  clammy  prevent 
the  flower  opening.  From  its  drooping  habit,  however, 
it  will  stand  a  shower  without  injury.  The  flowers  must 
be  protected  from  rain  and,  unless  they  are  on  standards, 
from  mud  splashed  up  from  the  ground. 

Mme.  Jules  Graveraux  (T.,  1901). — The  colour  of  this 
Rose  is  pale  flesh,  with  a  slightly  deeper  centre  sometimes 
of  a  yellowish  shade.  It  is  a  wonderful  grower,  making 
shoots  of  8  feet  or  more  in  the  season.  It  is  not  easy  to 
grow  either  as  a  pillar  or  wall  Rose,  as  the  large  flowers 
must  have  protection  or,  with  rain,  they  rot  off  in  dozens. 
I  have  found  the  best  way  to  grow  this  Rose  is  to  peg  it 
down,  but  it  can  be  cut  back  each  year  if  desired.  The 
flowers  are  exceptionally  large,  but  being  very  freely  pro- 
duced, severe  disbudding  is  essential. 

Mrs.  Edward  Mawley  (T.,  1899). — The  colour  is  pink  and 
the  size  and  shape  of  petal  good  ;  the  form  is  excellent,  and 
it  has  a  high  pointed  centre.  The  plant  is  not  a  good  doer, 
and  perhaps  gives  its  best  flowers  on  maiden  standards. 

Matnan  Cochet  (T.,  1893)  is  pink,  shaded  with  creamy- 
salmon,  sometimes  with  a  suggestion  of  fawn-yellow,  but  in 
other  respects  than  colour  it  is  similar  to  White  Maman 
Cochet. 

Souvenir  de  Pierre  Notting  (T.,  1902)  at  its  best  is  a  very 
beautiful  Rose  of  deep  apricot-yellow  colour.  It  has  an 
excellent  habit,  good  foliage,  is  very  free-flowering,  and 
as  far  as  these  qualities  are  concerned  would  be  a  fine 
garden  Rose.     It  has,  however,  the  disadvantage  of  produc- 

G 


98      PRESENT-DAY   GARDENING 

ing  very  rough  outer  petals,  and  unless  severely  disbudded 
and  grown  as  if  for  exhibition,  and  carefully  protected 
against  the  weather,  the  flowers  are  of  very  little  value. 

Medea  (T.,  1891). — This  is  a  grand  lemon-yellow  Rose 
of  good  depth  of  petal,  and  a  beautifully  rounded  shape, 
pretty  foliage,  and  easily  grown.  It  is  a  favourite  Rose 
with  me,  but  is  not  very  free-flowering,  and  is  decidedly 
liable  to  injury  from  frost. 

Muriel  Grahame  (T.,  1896)  is  a  pale  cream-coloured  sport 
from  Catherine  Mermet.  It  is  tender  and  of  poor  growth 
and  constitution  in  this  country,  and,  though  a  fine  exhibi- 
tion Rose,  is  of  little  use  for  general  garden  purposes. 

Molly  Sharman  Crawford  (T.,  1908). — Eau  de  Nil  white 
of  good  colour  and  fair  constitution.  This  beautiful  Rose 
seems  to  be  among  the  best  of  the  newer  Tea  Roses.  It 
is  undoubtedly  a  fine  Rose  for  exhibition.  It  holds  its 
head  well,  and  makes  a  good  garden  Rose ;  either  for 
bed  or  border,  I  have  liked  it  better  each  year  I  have 
grown  it. 

Comtesse  de  Nadaillac  (T.,  1871). — At  its  best  this  is  one 
of  the  finest  exhibition  Roses.  The  colour  is  coppery 
apricot,  but  the  shade  varies  to  a  very  great  degree  ;  it 
sometimes  comes  a  buff-yellow,  and  will  give  all  inter- 
mediate shades.  As  a  maiden,  especially  on  a  standard, 
this  Rose  makes  vigorous  growth,  with  large  leathery 
foliage,  but  never  again,  for  as  a  cut-back  the  growth  is 
poor.  It  is  very  free-flowering,  but  the  small  flowers  are 
of  little  value.  It  is  tender  and  not  an  easy  Rose  to  grow 
well ;  still  it  may  be  recommended  as  indispensable  for 
exhibition. 

The  Bride  (T.,    1885)  is  a  white  sport  from  Catherine 


EXHIBITION    TEA    ROSES        99 

Mermet,  having  a  slight  tint  of  lemon,  but  it  is  even  more 
solid  and  perfect  in  shape,  the  arrangement  of  the  petals, 
round  a  high,  pointed  centre,  being  particularly  good.  This 
Rose  is  unfortunately  decidedly  tender  and  does  not  stand 
rain  well.  It  is  therefore  often  difficult  to  get  perfect  flowers 
out-of-doors,  but  it  is  one  of  the  best  Roses  under  glass. 

Mme.  Constant  Soupert  (T.,  1905)  is  a  Rose  that  requires 
a  warm  season.  It  is  only  a  fair  grower,  and  should  be 
pruned  hard.  The  flowers  have  a  ground  colour  of  yellow, 
edged  and  shaded  with  peach,  and  are  very  beautiful.  It 
is  a  good  exhibition  Rose. 

Catherine  Mermet  (T.,  1869)  is  of  rather  poor  growth 
and  constitution,  and  the  foliage  is  not  very  good.  The 
colour  is  a  pale  pink  flesh,  and  the  form  of  the  flower  is 
first-rate  when  well  grown.  It  requires  careful  disbudding 
to  two  or  three  flowers  on  a  plant,  and  shading,  as  it  will 
not  stand  wet.  It  should  be  grown  on  a  half-standard. 
It  succeeds  best  under  glass. 

Innocente  Pirola  (T.,  1878). — A  beautiful  Rose  with  fine 
depth  of  shell-like  petal.  The  colour  is  creamy-white,  and 
the  flowers  come  kindly  and  of  nearly  perfect  form,  and 
last  well.  The  plants  require  severe  pruning,  careful  dis- 
budding, and  good  feeding. 

Bridesmaid  (T.,  1893).  —  A  deep  -  coloured  sport  of 
Catherine  Mermet.  It  is  a  slightly  better  doer,  and  one 
of  the  very  best  Roses  for  growing  under  glass. 

Souvenir  de  S.  A.  Prince  (T.,  1889)  is  a  sport  from 
Souvenir  d'un  Ami.  It  is  a  pure  white  flower  of  rather 
rounded  form.  It  is  hardy  for  a  Tea  Rose  and  lasts  well, 
but  is  inclined  to  hang  its  head. 

Mme.  Cusin  (T.,  1881). — I  have  found  this  Rose  much 


100     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

better  and  more  showy  as  a  standard.  As  a  dwarf  its 
growth  is  only  fair  and  the  flowers  are  not  so  good.  It  is 
very  free-flowering  and  lasts  well.  The  colour  is  a  good 
rose-pink,  and  the  shape  attractive,  rather  imbricated,  but 
yet  pointed.  To  obtain  exhibition  flowers  good  feeding 
and  careful  disbudding  are  necessary. 

Souvenir  d'un  Ami  (T.,  1846). — This  Rose  is  a  pale 
and  sometimes  rather  soiled-looking  rose  colour.  I  am 
not  very  fond  of  it,  but  it  is  hardy  and  free-flowering.  It 
should  be  grown  as  a  standard. 

Souvenir  d'Elise  Varden  (T.,  1854). — This  Rose  has  a 
poor  constitution.  It  is  useful  only  for  exhibitors,  and  they 
will  be  fortunate  if  they  get  more  than  one  good  shoot  from 
each  plant.  It  may  be  grown  either  as  a  dwarf  or  standard. 
The  flowers  are  cream-coloured  tinged  with  pale  rose,  and 
when  well  grown  are  very  beautiful.  It  used  to  be  one  of 
the  most  certain  prize-winners,  but  seems  to  be  less  seen 
of  recent  years.     It  is  of  no  value  as  a  garden  Rose. 

Other  good  Tea  Roses  for  exhibition  are  : — 

Anna  Olivier  (flesh  and  buff). 

Lady  Roberts  (apricot,  a  sport  from  Anna  Olivier). 

Madame  de  Watteville  (cream,  tinted  with  rose  ;    very 

tender). 
Madame  Hoste  (lemon-yellow). 
Madame  Vermorel  (light  yellow  with  buff  centre). 
Mrs.  Foley  Hohhs  (ivory-white  ;  new). 
W.   R.   Smith   (creamy-blush    tinged   with   pink ;    very 

pretty,  and  one  of  the  best). 


CHAPTER   XII 

DECORATIVE    ROSES    FOR    EXHIBITION 

Turning  now  to  the  decorative  Roses  that  have  proved 
valuable  at  the  exhibitions,  I  take  the  first  nineteen  in 
Mr.  Mawley's  Hst ;  four  Roses  are  bracketed  together  in 
their  place,  three  coming  next  at  the  23rd  position.  They 
are  as  follows  : — 

SUMMER   LIST 


I. 

Crimson  Rambler. 

12. 

Lady  Battersea. 

2. 

Mme.  Abel  Chatenay.* 

13- 

Mme.  Fernet  Ducher. 

3- 

Gustave  Regis.* 

fa,  Crimson  Damask 
\/3,  Jersey  Beauty. 

4- 

Marquise  de  Salisbury. 

14. 

5- 

Wm.  Allen  Richardson. 

16. 

fa,  Tea  Rambler. 
.(3,  The  Garland. 

6. 

Leuchtstern. 

7- 

Lady  Curzon. 

18. 

Papillon. 

8. 

R.  macrantha. 

a,  Aenchen  Miiller. 

9- 

Mme.  Ravary.* 

19. 

/3,  American  Pillar. 

10. 

Liberty. 

y,  Helena. 

II. 

Blush  Rambler. 

Is,  Una. 

It  is  interesting  to  compare  this  list  with  the  first 
fifteen  Roses  that  have  proved  their  value  for  decorative 
purposes  at  the  autumn  shows.     These  are  : — 


AUTUMN   LIST 


1.  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay. 

2. 1"'  ^^"y- 

\y8,  Irish  Elegance. 


4.  Griiss  an  Teplitz. 

5.  Trier. 

6.  Gustave  Regis.* 


I02     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

fa,  Mme.  Ravary.* 
^'  \f3,  Mme.  W.  H.  Cutbush. 


9,  Mme.  Antoine  Mari. 
fa,  Corallina. 
Papa  Gontier. 


12.  Wm.  Allen  Richardson.* 

fa,  La  Tosca. 
^^'  \/3,  Perle  d'Or. 
15.  Mme.  Jean  Dupuy. 


All  the  summer-flowering  Roses  have  naturally  dis- 
appeared, and  of  the  perpetual-flowering  Roses  we  have 
left  only  the  four  against  which  I  have  placed  a  star, 
and  these  appear  very  nearly  in  their  relative  positions, 
except  that  W.  A.  Richardson  has  taken  a  lower,  and 
Mme.  Ravary  a  higher,  position.  Betty,  Trier,  Irish 
Elegance,  Perle  d'Or,  and  Mme.  W.  H.  Cutbush  would, 
however,  have  been  lower  in  the  summer  list  had  it  been 
extended  to  forty-three  places. 

These  two  lists,  moreover,  have  a  value  for  others 
than  the  exhibitor  of  Roses  in  the  decorative  classes,  for 
they  are  nearly  all  good  garden  Roses. 

They  must,  however,  not  be  regarded  as  in  any  way 
exclusive.  For  instance,  some  may  be  surprised  to  find  that 
Richmond  finds  no  place  in  any  of  the  foregoing  lists.  Its 
position  in  the  florists'  windows,  and  in  Rose  competitive 
classes  at  other  flower  shows  than  those  of  the  N.R.S.,  makes 
it  clear  that  as  a  Rose  for  decorative  purposes  it  is  second 
only  to  Mme.  Abel  Chatenay.  The  explanation  of  its  ex- 
clusion from  these  lists  is  that  Richmond  has  unfortu- 
nately found  a  place  very  low  down  (fifty-ninth)  in  the 
list  of  Exhibition  H.P.'s  and  H.T.'s.  This  is  no  doubt  an 
indication  of  want  of  elasticity  in  the  present  rules  of  the 
N.R.S.  Something  is  being  done  towards  remedying  the 
defect  by  the  creation  of  classes  in  which  certain  decora- 
tive Roses  in  the  exhibition  lists  are  to  be  admitted,  but 
the  limitation  remains  unsatisfactory. 


CHAPTER    XIII 

ROSES   FOR    DECORATION    OF   THE   GARDEN 

First  for  bush  Roses  grown  in  ordinary  beds  or  borders, 
planted  from  i  foot  3  inches  to  2  feet  6  inches  apart, 
according  to  the  vigour  of  growth  of  the  variety. 

A.  K.  Williams  (H.P.).— See  p.  91. 

Alice  Lindsell  (H.T.). — See  p.  92. 

Antoine  Rivoire  (HT.). — Pale  cream  with  deeper  centre, 
a  beautiful  Rose,  good  both  early  and  late.  Makes  a  good 
standard,  but  its  habit  as  a  bush  Rose  is  not  first-class. 

Auguste  Comte  (T.). — Beautiful  foliage,  flowers  pink, 
with  high,  pointed,  creamy-white  centre. 

Betty  (H.T.). — Coppery  rose,  shaded  yellow  ;  a  rather 
thin  Rose,  with  large  shell-like  petals  ;  best  in  autumn. 

Bridesmaid  (T.). — See  p.  99. 

Capt.  Hayward  (H.P.). — See  p.  95. 

Caroline  Testout  (H.T.). — See  p.  89. 

Catherine  Mermet  (T.). — See  p.  99. 

Charles  J.  Grahame  (H.T.). — Bright  crimson,  rather 
thin,  a  cool  season  Rose. 

Cheshunt  Scarlet  (H.P.). — A  brilliant-coloured  flower, 
good  in  autumn. 

Commandant  Felix  Faure  (H.P.).  —  A  lovely,  dark 
crimson,  well-shaped  flower,  shaded  scarlet,  very  fragrant. 


I04     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

Comtesse  de  Nadaillac. — See  p.  89. 

Dean  Hole.— See  p.  88. 

Dorothy  Page  Roberts  (H.T.). — Semi-double,  a  rather 
deep  pink  rose,  with  a  yellow  base  to  the  petal,  giving  a 
somewhat  metallic  lustre.  It  is  very  decorative  and  a 
good  doer. 

Edu  Meyer  (H.T.). — Another  semi-double  Rose,  at  its 
best  most  beautiful,  but  sometimes  disappointing.  The 
colour  is  a  mixture  of  pink  and  yellow  not  easy  to  de- 
scribe. The  base  of  the  petals  on  both  sides  is  yellow, 
carried  half-way  up  on  the  inside  where  it  merges  into 
light  pink,  the  reverse  of  the  petals  being  a  darker  shade 
of  pink,  the  general  effect  being  apricot  with  a  mixture 
of  pink  and  orange.  Though  moderately  hardy,  it  is 
not  a  strong  grower,  and  should   have  plenty  of  sun. 

Florence  Pemberton. — See  p.  90. 

Fran  Karl  Druschki  (H.P.).— See  p.  88. 

General  M'Arthur  (H.T.).  —  Bright  scarlet-crimson. 
A  good  Rose,  its  defects  being  that  its  form  is  not,  to 
my  taste,  of  the  first  rank,  and  that  it  is  a  little  too  long 
between  its  periods  of  flowering. 

Griiss  an  Teplitz  (H.T.). — Bright  crimson,  and  free- 
flowering,  very  showy  in  the  garden,  but  the  flowers  have 
little  form.  It  is  a  strong  grower,  and  makes  a  good 
standard,  and  should  be  treated  like  a  Noisette. 

Gustav  Grilnerwald  (H.T.). — A  beautiful  full  pink  rose 
with  a  yellowish  base  to  the  petal.  A  good  doer  and  ex- 
cellent garden  Rose. 

Gustave  Regis  (H.T.). — A  vigorous  grower.  Nankeen 
yellow,  with  shell-like  petals,  only  semi-double,  but  an 
indispensable  garden  Rose.     Most  decorative. 


ROSES    FOR    THE    GARDEN     105 

Giistave  Piganean. — See  p.  92. 

Harry  Kirk  (T.). — A  good  doer  for  a  Tea,  bright  sulphur- 
yellow,  with  a  deeper  centre  ;  a  good  decorative  Rose,  but 
might  be  little  freer  in  flowering. 

Helen  Keller  (H.P.).— See  p.  95. 

Horace  Vernet. — See  p.  92. 

Hugh  Dickson  (H.P.). — See  p.  90. 

Innocenie  Pirola  (T.). — See  p.  99. 

Irish  Elegance  (H.T.). — Single,  various  shades  of  apricot, 
sometimes  nearly  pink  with  orange-red  buds.  The  most 
decorative  Rose  we  have. 

Irish  Glory  (H.T.). — Single,  silvery  pink.  When  picked 
it  makes  a  fine  vase. 

/.  B.  Clark  (H.T.).— See  p.  89. 

Joseph  Hill  (H.T.). — One  of  the  best  garden  Roses,  with 
shapely  flowers  and  beautiful  foliage.  The  colour  is  very 
variable,  and  consists  of  various  shades  of  pale  pink  much 
suffused  with  yellow,  the  base  of  the  petals  being  quite 
yellow.  It  is  a  good  doer,  but  apt  in  its  second  growth  to 
make  a  single  panicle  of  flower,  a  tendency  which  should 
be  checked. 

Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria  (H.T.). — See  p.  91. 

Killarney  (H.T.). — Clear  pale  pink.  One  of  the  most 
useful  of  Roses.  It  requires  disbudding,  and  though  a 
good  doer  is  unfortunately  very  subject  to  mildew. 

Koenigin  Corola  (H.T.). — This  is  a  fine  Rose  with  big 
flowers,  full,  with  large  loose  petals,  a  soft  pale  pink  colour, 
the  early  flowers  produced  singly. 

Lady  Ashtown. — See  p.  90. 

Lady  Roberts  (T.). — Light  apricot  with  coppery  yellow 
base,  a  good  garden  Rose,  and  useful  for  button-holes. 


io6      PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

La  France  (H.T.).— The  first  H.T.     See  p.  92. 

La  Tosca  (H.T.). — A  good  strong-growing  Rose,  with 
flowers  blush  to  pale  pink  in  colour,  specially  good  in 
autumn. 

Laurent  Carle  (H.T.). — Deep  carmine,  a  good  grower. 

Lyons  Rose  (H.T.). — See  p.  91. 

Maman  Cochet. — See  p.  97. 

Mme.  Abel  Chatenay  (H.T.). — Bright  salmon-pink  with 
paler  reflex  of  the  petals,  probably  the  most  popular  Rose 
grown,  but  difBcult  to  grow  well  in  the  garden.  The 
foliage  is  sparse,  and  the  second  growth  apt  to  be  confined 
to  a  single  strong  panicle. 

Mme.  Antoine  Mart  (T.). — A  beautful  Rose,  shapely  and 
artistic,  the  colour  cream  and  soft  rose-pink,  opening  creamy- 
white.  It  has  beautiful  foliage  which  is  nearly  evergreen, 
and  is  a  good  grower  for  a  Tea  Rose  and  a  useful  Rose 
for  bedding. 

Mme.  Constant  Sonpert  (T.). — See  p.  98. 

Mme.  Cnsin  (T.). — See  p.  99. 

Mme.  Edmee  Metz  (H.T.). — Light  pink,  beautiful  and 
effective  in  fine  weather,  useless  with  the  least  rain. 

Mme.  Hoste  (T.). — Pale  lemon-yellow,  a  good  Tea  Rose, 
best  as  a  standard. 

Mme.  Jean  Diipuy  (T.). — Light  yellow,  edged  rose,  a 
good  grower  and  excellent  garden  Rose. 

Mme.  Jules  Graveraux  (T.). — See  p.  97. 

Mme.  Jules  Grolez  (H.T.). — Deep  rose-pink  ;  a  useful 
garden  Rose,  but  the  colour  does  not  harmonise  with  many 
of  the  pinks.     It  is  rather  dwarf. 

Mme.  Lamhard  (T.). — A  most  satisfactory  Rose,  always 
bright  and  cheerful,  and    most   useful    in   autumn.      The 


ROSES    FOR    THE    GARDEN     107 

colour  is  rose-pink  but  variable  ;  sometimes  tinged  with 
yellow.     It  is  best  hard  pruned. 

Mme.  Leon  Pain  (H.T.). — This  is  one  of  the  three  or 
four  best  garden  Roses.  The  flowers  are  well  formed, 
silvery  blush,  with  salmon  centre  ;  the  growth  is  vigorous 
and  good,  and  it  gives  no  trouble. 

Mme.  Maurice  de  Luze  (H.T.). — A  self-coloured  Rose 
of  good  shape  and  substance,  clear  rose  colour,  often 
making  exhibition  blooms ;  useful  also  for  decoration. 
Fragrant. 

Mme.  MelanieSoupert  (H.T.). — A  beautiful  Rose,  shapely, 
but  rather  thin  ;  the  colour  is  difficult  to  describe  ;  it  is 
pale  fawn  and  gold  with  a  delicate  shading  of  peach,  some- 
times with  the  least  shading  of  mauve  or  amethyst.  The 
foliage  is  large  and  glossy,  and  the  flowers  come  on  long 
stems.     The  second  bloom  requires  disbudding. 

Mme.  Pernet  Ducher  (H.T.). — A  whiter  and  dwarfer 
Gustave  Regis. 

Mme.  Ravary  (H.T.). — Pale  orange-yellow  with  apricot 
centre,  of  rather  a  dwarf  habit,  excellent  for  decoration  in 
the  garden  or  the  house. 

Mme.  Segond  Weber  (H.T.). — Light  salmon-rose,  beauti- 
ful in  fine  weather,  spoilt  at  once  by  rain. 

Maharajah  (H.P.). — Single,  deep  velvety  crimson. 

Marie  van  Houtte  (T.). — Lemon-yellow,  edged  rose,  a 
useful  and  hardy  garden  Tea  Rose. 

Marquise  de  Sinety  (H.T.). — A  wonderful  colour,  golden 
yellow,  shaded  coppery  red  ;  not  a  good  doer, 

Medea  (T.). — See  p.  97. 

Mildred  Grant  (H.T.).— See  p.  88. 

Molly  Sharman  Crawford  (T.). — See  p.  98. 


io8     PRESENT-DAY   GARDENING 

Mrs.  Alfred  Tate  (H.T.). — Coppery  salmon,  shaded  fawn, 
a  promising  Rose  for  decoration. 

Mrs.  A.  R.  Waddell  (H.T.).— The  colour  is  very  beautiful, 
but  comes  best  under  glass.  The  plant  is  a  good  grower, 
and  the  flowers  are  freely  produced,  but  are  rather  fleeting. 

Mrs.  David  M'Kee  (H.T.). — Creamy-yellow,  and  well- 
shaped  flowers.     This  Rose  is  the  best  of  its  type. 

Mrs.  E.  G.  Hill  (H.T.).— This  is  a  free-flowering  and 
upright-growing  Grand  Duke  Alex  de  Luxembourg.  The 
flower  is  pink,  with  coral-red  reverse  and  large  petals.  It  is 
the  most  decorative  Rose  in  my  garden,  and,  with  the  pos- 
sible exception  of  Richmond,  I  think  the  most  continuously 
in  flower.  It  is  good  alike  in  fine  or  wet  weather,  rather 
thin,  but  most  beautiful. 

Mrs.  Edward  Mawley. — See  p.  97. 

Mrs.  G.  W.  Kershaw  (H.T.). — Rose-pink,  a  useful  garden 
Rose. 

Mrs.  Harold  Brocklebank  (H.T.). — Creamy-white  with  a 
buff  centre,  a  good  grower,  and  often  well  shaped. 

Mrs.  John  Laing  (H.P.). — See  p.  89. 

Mrs.  R.  G.  Sharman  Crawford  (H.P). — See  p.  92. 

Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt  (H.T.). — See  p.  90. 

Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  (H.T.).— See  p.  90. 

Muriel  Grahame. — See  p.  98. 

Papa  Gontier  (H.T.). — Rosy-crimson  with  lighter  reverse ; 
a  most  beautiful  but,  with  me,  not  a  very  strong  grower. 
The  climbing  sport  on  a  south  wall  is  beautiful  in  early 
summer,  and  particularly  useful  in  autumn. 

Paula  (T.). — A  pretty  little  pale-yellow  Rose  of  good 
habit. 

Perle   von    Godesberg  (H.T.). — A    creamy-yellow    sport 


ROSES    FOR    THE    GARDEN     109 

from  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria,  to  which  I  prefer  it.  The 
flowers  are  well  shaped. 

Pharisaer  (H.T.). — A  tall-growing  Rose  ;  the  flowers  are 
blush  with  salmon  shading,  carried  on  long  stalks,  beautiful 
for  decoration  in  the  garden  or  when  cut. 

Prince  de  Bulgarie  (H.T.). — Variable  in  colour,  pale 
blush  with  apricot  centre.  With  me  the  early  flowers  are 
seldom  good,  but  those  in  summer  and  autumn  are  lovely 
if  the  weather  prove  fine. 

Princess  Marie  Mertchersky  (H.T.). — Silvery  China  Rose, 
often  good,  but  requires  a  lot  of  disbudding. 

Richmond  (H.T.). — Bright  light  crimson  flowers,  almost 
always  well  formed.  This  Rose  is  more  constantly  in 
flower  than  any  Rose  in  the  garden,  and  provides  a  bright 
patch  of  colour  the  summer  through.  Hot  sun,  however, 
spoils  the  colour  very  much. 

Rosette  de  la  Legion  d'Honneur  (H.T.).  —  Bright-red 
buds  opening  to  pinkish-red  flowers,  veined  yellow,  a  useful 
Garden  Rose,  but  of  an  awkward  habit.  If  pruned  hard, 
it  flowers  late  and  badly.     It  is  best  treated  like  a  Noisette. 

Simplicity  (H.T.). — A  large-flowered,  white,  single  Rose. 
If  gathered  just  as  it  opens,  so  that  the  stamens  are  fresh, 
it  is  beautiful  for  decoration. 

Souvenir  d'Elise  Vardon  (T.). — See  p.  100. 

Souvenir, de  Pierre  Notting  (T.). — See  p.  97. 

Souvenir  de  S.  A.  Prince  (T.). — See  p.  97. 

Souvenir  d'un  Ami  (T.). — See  p.  99. 

Sulphurea  (T.). — Bright  sulphur  yellow,  semi-double, 
specially  good  in  autumn. 

Suzanne  Marie  Rodocanachi  (H.P.). — See  p.  92. 

The  Bride  (T.).— See  p.  98. 


no     PRESENT-DAY   GARDENING 

Ulrich  Brunner  (H.P.). — Cherry-red.     See  p.  89. 

Viscountess  Folkestone  (H.T.). — Creamy-white,  shaded 
flesh,  often  well  shaped  ;  an  artistic  Rose. 

Warrior  (H.T.). — A  fine  colour,  nearly  crimson  when 
first  open,  a  thin  Rose  of  no  great  form,  but  useful  in  the 
garden. 

W.  R.  Smith  (T.). — Blush,  tinted  pale  pink,  well  shaped, 
and  a  beautiful  garden  Rose,  best  in  fine  weather,  as  it 
loses  colour  in  wet. 

White  Killarney  (H.T.). — A  white  sport  from  Killarney. 

White  Maman  Cochet. — See  p.  96. 

William  Shean. — See  p.  91. 

Zephirine  Droiihin  (Bourbon). — Bright  pink,  thornless, 
free-flowering,  and  very  sweetly  scented.  This  is  a  de- 
lightful garden  Rose,  a  great  favourite  with  the  Rev.  Alan 
Cheales.  It  makes  a  good  hedge,  and  can  be  used  in  many 
different  ways.     Every  one  should  grow  it. 


HYBRID  PERPETUALS 

In  the  foregoing  list  I  have  included  comparatively  few 
Hybrid  Perpetuals,  only  those,  in  fact,  which  have  some 
claim  to  be  considered  decorative  in  the  garden  ;  but  where 
practicable,  some  space  should  be  found  for  growing  some 
of  the  older  sorts.  Few  of  the  modern  Roses  equal  them 
for  perfume,  and  when  well  grown  they  are  very  beautiful. 
We  have  nothing  else  quite  like  them.  The  following  are 
some  of  the  best  varieties  : — 

Charles  Lefehvre,  velvety  crimson. 

Comte  de  Raimbaud,  clear  crimson,  always  well  shaped  ; 
a  good  old  Rose. 


HYBRID    PERPETUALS  iii 

Duchess  of  Bedford,  scarlet-crimson,  not  a  good   doer, 

best  as  a  maiden. 
Duke  of  Edinburgh,  scarlet-crimson,  very  vigorous,  with 

long  autumn  shoots,  only  slightly  fragrant. 
Duke  of  Teck,  bright  crimson-scarlet. 
Duke  of  Wellington,  dark  crimson. 
Dupuy  Jamain  or  Etienne  Level,  carmine-rose.     Both 

these  have  delicious  perfume.    One,  at  least,  should 

be  cultivated. 
Fisher  Holmes,  crimson-scarlet,  a  good  Rose. 
General  Jacqueminot,  bright  scarlet-crimson  and  free- 
flowering. 
Mme.  Gabriel  Luizet,  clear  pink,  flowers  little  in  autumn. 
Maurice  Bernardin,  crimson,  often  good. 
Oscar  Cordel,  light  carmine. 
Prince  Camille  de  Rohan,  dark  crimson,  the  best  Rose 

of  its  colour. 
Rev,  Alan  Cheales,  pink-lake,  with  the  reverse  of  the 

petals  silvery  pink. 
Victor  Hugo,  bright  crimson,  unique  in  colour,  but  the 

flowers  often  come  rough. 
Xavier  Olibo,  dark  purplish-crimson,  the  purple  shade 

being  very  noticeable  as  the  flowers  fade. 


CHAPTER   XIV 

ROSES   FOR    BEDDING 

It  is  not  an  easy  task  to  select  the  best  Roses  for  bedding. 
A  good  bedding  Rose  must  hold  itself  well  and  be  of  good 
habit  and  foliage,  must  be  very  free-flowering,  not  too  tall, 
and  not  greatly  susceptible  to  disfiguring  disease.  These 
requirements  rule  out  all  the  H.P.'s,  but  if  any  were 
admitted  they  should  be  Cheshunt  Scarlet  for  its  brilliant 
colour,  Mrs.  R.  G.  Sharman  Crawford  for  its  clear  pink, 
and  perhaps  Suzanne  Marie  Rodocanachi  ;  but  it  is  really 
better  to  rely  entirely  on  the  H.T.'s  and  Teas  as  in  the 
following  list : — 

H.T.'s 

Augustine  Guinoisseaii  (white,  blush  centre). 

Camoens  (pink). 

Dr.  J.  Campbell  Hall  (pink),  dwarf,  almost  the  best. 

Duchess  of  Wellington  (yellow). 

Ecarlate  (scarlet). 

Lady  Ashtown  (pink). 

Liberty  (red). 

Marquise  de  Salisbury  (dark  red). 

Mme.  Jules  Grolez  or  Frau  Ernst  Borsig  (pink), 

Mme.  Leon  Pain  (pink). 


ROSES    FOR    BEDDING  113 

Mine.  Ravary  (yellow). 

Mrs.  E.  G.  Hill  (pale  pink,  coral-red  reverse). 

Richmond  (red). 


Teas 

Hon.  Edith  Gifford  (white,  blush  centre). 
Mme.  Antoine  Mari  (cream  and  pink). 
Mme.  Lambard  (pink). 

Mme.  Henri  Berger  (pink),  later  than  the  last. 
Molly  Sharman  Crawford  (white). 

Those  who  are  chiefly  at  home  in  the  autumn  may  add 
Corallina,  a  strong-growing  pink  Tea,  but  the  summer 
flowers  are  generally  an  unattractive  colour,  and  the  flower 
lacks  good  form.  Lady  Ashtown  is  beautiful  when  in 
flower,  but  it  has  periods  when  few  flowers  are  to  be  found, 
though  it  is  not  actually  without  them.  Lady  Quartus 
Ewart  is  a  pretty  white  bedding  Rose,  with  perfect  flowers, 
but  it  is  useless  in  bad  weather. 

In  addition  to  the  above,  any  of  the  China  Roses  (see 
p.  122)  and  the  Dwarf  Polyantha  Roses  (see  p.  124)  make 
excellent  Roses  for  bedding. 


CHAPTER    XV 

PILLAR    ROSES 

For  tall  pillars  up  to  12  feet  high,  many  of  the  Multifloras 
and  nearly  all  the  Wichuraianas  are  suitable.  For  pillars 
up  to  8  and  9  feet,  Tausendschdn  is  good  and  easily  grown. 
The  sho-^y  Carmine  Pillar  is  also  excellent.  But  where 
many  Pillar  Roses  are  grown,  at  least  half  the  number 
should  be  perpetual-flowering  Roses.  For  this  purpose  resort 
must  be  had  to  the  Noisettes  and  vigorous-growing  H.T.'s. 
The  following  list  gives  a  selection  of  those  suitable  for  the 
purpose.  But  in  all  these  Roses  constant  care  is  required 
to  keep  them  furnished  down  to  the  base — a  difficulty 
which  does  not  arise  with  the  Wichuraianas  : — 

Aimee  Vibert,  N.  (white). 

Alister  Stella  Gray,  N.  (yellow),  best  in  autumn. 

Ards  Rover,  H.P.  (red). 

Ards  Rambler,  H.T.  (red). 

Billard   et  Bane,    T.    (yellow),   a    beautiful    Rose,   but 

useless  without  protection. 
Clivibiug  Caroline  Testoiit,  H.T.  (pink). 
Celine  Forestier,  X.  (pale  yellow). 
Climbing  Frail  Karl  Druschki,  H.P.  (white). 
Franfois  Crousse,  H.T.  (red). 

Gloire  des  Rosomanes,  H.B.  (red),  good  early  and  late. 
Gruss  an  Tepiitz,  H.T.  (red),  showy. 


PLATE   VI 

THE   LYONS   ROSE   (H.T.) 

This  Rose  is  very  variable  in  tint;  sometimes  it  is  nearly  pink. 
The  prevailing  colours  are  pink  and  shades  of  orange. 


PILLAR    ROSES  117 

Lady  Waterlow,  H.T.  (pink). 

Climbing  La  France,  H.T.  (pink). 

L'Ideal,  N.  (yellowish-red). 

Lina  Schmidt  Michel,  H.T.,  a  beautiful  Rose,  colouring 

after  the  style  of  Grand  Duke  A.  de  Luxembourg. 
Mme.  Alfred  Carriere,  N.  (white),  a  useful  Rose,  best  in 

autumn. 
Mme.  Isaac  Pereire,  B.  (pink),  hardy  and  fragrant,  but 

not  first-class. 
Maharajah,  H.P.,  single  (red). 
Morgenroth,    H.T.    (red,    after    the    style    of   Carmine 

Pillar,  but  perpetual). 
Climbing  Mrs.   W.  J.  Grant,  H.T.  (pink),  very  difficult 

to  keep  clothed  to  the  base. 
Noella  Nabonnand,  T.  (crimson). 
Climbing  Papa  Gontier,  H.T.   (beautiful  rosy-pink,  but 

tender). 
PapHlon,  T.  (pink),  the  best  Tea  for  a  pillar. 
Paul's  Single  White, 
Reve  d'Or,  N.  (yellow). 
William  Allen  Richardson,  N.  (orange). 


CHAPTER   XVI 

ROSES   FOR  THE    ROCK   GARDEN 

Many  of  the  dwarfer  species  make  beautiful  subjects  for  the 
rock  garden.  In  some  the  foHage  and  fruit  are  worthy 
of  consideration  as  well  as  their  flowers,  and  others  have 
beautiful  red  stems,  which  look  very  bright  in  the  winter 
sun.     The  following  are  worth  notice  : — 

Alpina  pyrenaica  (red). 

Alherti  (yellow). 

Biirgiirdica  (double  Daisy-like  flowers). 

Burnet  Rose  (cream). 

De  Meaux  (pink). 

„       „     (white). 
Ecce  (yellow). 

Ferox  (the  Hedgehog  Rose). 
Foliolosa     (good     foliage,     and    warm,    rose-coloured 

flowers).^ 
Gallica  pumila  (single  pink). 
Humilis  (pink  and  perpetual). 
Lawrenceana  (deep  pink  double  flowers). 
Nitida    (the   most   beautiful    of   all ;   the   foliage   turns 

brilliant  red  in  autumn,  leaving  later  stems  covered 

with  innumerable  red  prickles). 

^  Better  still  is  Rugosa  x  foliosa,  which  is  perpetual  and  fragrant. 
ii8 


ROSES    FOR    ROCK    GARDEN     119 

Seraphini  (a  beautiful  little  Corsican  Rose,  with  single 

pink  flowers). 
William   III.     (a   dwarf    Scotch    Rose    with    dark   red 

flowers). 

Many  of  the  Dwarf  Polyanthas  are  also  suitable,  speci- 
ally :— 

Anna  Maria  de  Montravel. 

Eugenie  Lamesch. 

Jessie. 

Leonie  Lamesch. 

Mrs.  W.  H.  Cutbiish. 

And  the  Tea  Princesse  de  Sagan. 

Farther  back  in  the  rockery  there  are  a  few  taller 
varieties  which  may  be  used  with  effect.  They  grow  4  to 
5  feet  high,  e.g. : — 

Altaica  (creamy-white). 

Hispida  (soft  yellow). 

Hugonis  (yellow,  beautiful  foliage). 

Indica  Miss  Willmott. 

Moyesii  (salmon-pink). 

Nuttalliana  (late  flowering,  pink). 

Xanthina  (yellow). 


CHAPTER   XVII 

ROSES  SUITABLE   FOR  GROWING  AS  BIG 
BUSHES,   OR  SPECIMEN   PLANTS 

Altaica  (cream  coloured,  short  period  of  flowering). 

GriXss  an  Teplitz  (brilliant  red  and  free-flowering,  per- 
petual). 

Janet's  Pride  (white,  edged  deep  pink,  summer-flowering). 

Lady  Curzon  (summer-flowering  only). 

Mme.  Plantier  (white). 

Macrantha  (single,  blush,  with  yellow  stamens,  most 
useful  for  decoration). 

Trier  (white  and  fawn,  perpetual). 

Una  (single,  cream  coloured). 

Most  of  the  Rugosa  Roses,  specially  Conrad  F.  Meyer 
and  its  sports. 

ROSES  FOR  WALLS 


Ards  Rambler. 

Banksian. 

Climbing  Caroline  Tcstout. 

Climbing  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant. 

Frangois  Crousse. 

Goubault. 

Gloire  de  Dijon. 

L'Ideal. 


Macartney. 

Mme.  Alfred  Carrier e. 

Reve  d'Or. 

Reine    Olga    de    Wurtem- 

berg. 
Sinica  Anemone. 
William  Allen  Richardson. 
Zephirine  Dronhin. 


CHAPTER   XVIII 

SWEET  BRIARS  (R.  rubiginosa) 

Somewhere  near  the  Rose  garden  room  should  be  found 
for  one,  or  more,  hedges  of  Sweet  Briars.  Their  scent  from 
the  glands  on  the  under  surface  of  their  leaves,  in  the  early 
morning  or  evening  air,  adds  much  to  the  charm  of  the 
garden. 

Of  the  common  Sweet  Briar,  which  has  pink  flowers, 
there  is  a  dwarf  variety  growing  4-5  feet  high,  and  a  tall  one 
growing  10  feet  or  more.  Beside  these  there  is  a  double 
white  and  a  double  scarlet  form,  and  there  are  also  the 
Penzance  Briars  growing  12  to  15  feet  in  height.  Many  of 
the  Penzance  Briars  are  very  like  one  another.  The  follow- 
ing is  a  selection  from  them  : — 

Amy  Robsart,  deep  rose. 

Catherine  Seyton,  rosy-pink,  free-flowering. 

Flora  M'lvor,  white,  edged  and  flushed  rose. 

Jeannie  Deans,  deep  rose. 

Julia  Mannering,  pink. 

Lady  Penzance,  coppery  yellow,  distinct. 

Lucy  Ashton,  white,  edged  pink. 

Meg  Merrilies,  rich  rose. 

Rose  Bradwardine,  clear  rose. 

Refulgence  is  not  a  Penzance  Briar,  though  like  them, 
it  is  semi-double  and  bright  crimson. 


CHAPTER    XIX 

THE    CHINA   ROSES 
(J?,  indica  and  R.  indica  semperflorens) 

The  flowers  of  China  Roses,  as  a  class,  are  somewhat 
wanting  in  form,  and,  individually,  rather  fleeting,  but  the 
colours  are  good,  and  they  are  specially  useful  early  and  late 
in  the  season.  They  begin  to  flower  about  the  last  week  in 
May,  and  the  first  period  of  flowering  lasts  for  three  or  four 
weeks  ;  after  this,  though  they  continue  to  flower  to  some 
extent,  the  show  of  bloom  diminishes,  and  it  is  often  difficult 
to  obtain  a  vase  of  any  one  variety  for  the  July  shows.  Suc- 
cessional  crops  soon  begin  again,  and  continue  till  Novem- 
ber, but  there  is  a  well-defined  burst  of  flower  in  the  early 
autumn.  For  garden  purposes  they  consist  of  two  types — 
the  taller  growers  represented  by  the  Common  Blush  or 
Pink  China,  which  make  good-sized  bushes  or  dwarf  hedges  ; 
and  a  dwarf  section  headed  by  the  Old  Crimson  China. 
There  are  numerous  intermediate  varieties,  and  others  which 
approach  the  Teas  in  character  and  habit. 

They  may  all  be  used  for  bedding,  and  should  be  planted 
rather  closely,  and  the  taller  varieties  may  be  used  for  low 
hedges.  Like  the  Teas  they  prefer  rather  light  soil.  The 
following  varieties  are  recommended  : — 


THE    CHINA    ROSES 


123 


White 
Ducher. 

Rival  de  Pfestum. 
White  Pet. 

Fale  Yellow 

*Arethusa. 
Chin  Chin. 

Salmon  and  Apricot 
♦Comtesse  du  Cayla. 
♦Queen  Mab  (the  best  of  all). 
Mme.  Eugene  Resal. 
Mile,  de  la  Vallette. 


Pinks 

*Laurette  Messimy. 
♦Common  Pink  (Old  Monthly 
Rose). 


Scarlet  and  Crimson 
Alice  Hamilton. 
♦Charlotte  Klemm. 
Cramoisie  Superieure. 
Fabvier. 
Leuchtfeuer. 
Old  Crimson. 


If  six  only  are  wanted,  those  marked  with  a  star  may 
be  selected.  A  very  curious  coloured  pink  is  Maddelina 
Scalarandis.  It  is  difficult  to  harmonise  with  other  coloured 
Roses,  but  lights  up  well  by  candle-light.  Ducher  and  the 
Common  Pink  are  hardy  and  good  growers. 


CHAPTER   XX 

POLYANTHA   POMPON    ROSES 

The  Dwarf  Polyantha  Roses  are  of  recent  introduction. 
Ma  Paquerette  was  introduced  by  Guillot  in  1875,  and  was 
probably  the  earliest.  It  was  followed  by  Anna  Maria  de 
Montravel,  white  and  very  dwarf,  obtained  by  Mme. 
Rambaux  in  1879,  Cecile  Brunner  (Ducher,  1881),  and 
Perle  d'Or  (Dubreuil,  1883),  since  which  date  the  varieties 
have  become  numerous.  They  are  nearly  related  to  R. 
multiflora,  crossed  probably  with  Teas  and  China  Roses. 

As  a  class  they  are  very  bright  and  cheerful  in  the  garden, 
and  being  constantly  in  flower  from  early  June  to  late 
autumn,  they  make  good  bedding  Roses.  In  fact,  they 
should  generally  be  massed  together  to  produce  a  good 
effect.  They  may  often  be  used  with  effect  for  decorative 
purposes,  but  for  the  most  part  they  are  wanting  in  beauty 
of  form  in  the  individual  flower  and  have  little  fragrance. 
However,  Eugenie  Lamesch,  L^onie  Lamesch,  and  Lady 
Violet  Henderson  are  slightly  scented. 

Though  not  so  attractive  as  the  Chinas,  they  last  better, 
and  for  this  reason  have,  to  some  extent,  replaced  them  in 
some  gardens.  The  Dwarf  Polyanthas  are  excellent  autumn 
flowerers. 

Aenchen  Miiller  is  bright  and  attractive,  but  very  badly 
given  to  mildew. 


POLYANTHA    POMPON    ROSES     125 

Cecile  Brunner,  blush  white,  with  a  pale  rose-coloured 
centre,  and  Perle  d'Or,  pale  yellow,  with  orange  centre, 
are  distinct  in  habit  from  the  rest  of  the  class,  throwing 
up  tall  and  loose  panicles  of  flower,  while  in  the  majority 
of  the  varieties  the  flowers,  though  also  borne  on  panicles, 
are  rather  closely  clustered. 

The  following  are  worth  growing  : — 

White  and  Blush 
Anna  Maria  de  Montravel  (very  dwarf). 
Katharine  Zeimet  (the  best  white). 
Marie  Pavie  (blush). 
Cecile  Brunner. 

Fink 
Aschenbrodel  (peach). 
Aenchen  MiiUer  (bright,  rich  pink). 
Mrs.  W.  H.  Cutbush  (light  clear  pink). 
Philippine  Lambert  (pale  pink). 

Yellow  and  Orange 
Canarienvogel  (golden  yellow,  tinged  mauve). 
Eugenie  Lamesch  (yellow  ochre,  shaded  pink). 
Leonie  Lamesch  (bright  coppery  red,  golden  centre). 
Perle  d'Or. 

Red 

Jessie  (dwarf  and  good). 

Kleiner  Alfred  (red,  shaded  yellow). 

Closely  connected  with  the  Dwarf  Polyanthas  for 
garden  purposes  are  the  new  race  of  Perpetual-Flower- 
ing   Dwarf   Wichuraianas,   lately    introduced    by   G.    Paul 


126     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

and  Son,  of  Cheshunt.  They  are  attractive  little  Roses, 
but  it  is  too  early  to  write  of  their  merits  or  otherwise. 
I  may  mention  Iceberg  (white),  Amber  (yellow),  and 
Seashell  (with  terra-cotta  buds)  as  worth  a  trial. 

Newer  still  are  some  little  Roses  introduced  by 
Lambert,  including  Tip-top  and  Bettel- Student ;  but  I 
have  no  personal  experience  of  them. 


/ 


CHAPTER   XXI 

RAMBLING    ROSES 

jff.  multiflora  a?id  R.    Wichiiraiana 

The  Multiflora  and  Wichuraiana  Roses  are  employed  in 
the  garden  for  very  similar  purposes,  namely,  for  covering 
arches  and  screens,  growing  over  pergolas,  or  as  isolated 
pillars.  The  garden  hybrids  of  these  Roses  are  confused 
one  with  another ;  for  instance,  Hiawatha  is  sometimes 
found  described  as  a  Multiflora  and  sometimes  as  a 
Wichuraiana,  though  from  its  lax  growth  it  ought  properly 
to  be  included  in  the  latter  group.  Tea  Rambler  and 
Gruss  an  Zabern  I  have  included  in  the  Multiflora  group, 
to  which  section,  for  garden  purposes,  they  clearly  belong, 
though  the  first  is  frequently  described  as  a  T.,  and  the 
second  as  a  H.T.,  groups  with  which  they  have  little  or 
nothing  in  common.  Both  groups  are  alike  in  this,  that 
they  tend  to  throw  up  strong  shoots  from  the  base,  from 
which  the  flowers  are  produced  in  the  following  summer 
on  short  laterals. 

In  Multiflora  varieties  the  wood  that  has  flowered  is  quite 
useless  for  flowering  again,  and  in  the  case  of  the  Wichu- 
raianas  nearly  so,  and  may  be  removed  when  flowering  is 
over.  In  both  cases,  however,  there  are  often  produced 
from  the  old  wood  strong  lateral   growths,  quite  different 


128     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

from  the  short  flowering  laterals.  These  strong  growths 
are  called  "continuing  laterals,"  and  as  these  will  flower, 
they  may  be  retained  if  there  are  not  sufficient  basal  shoots 
to  furnish  the  plant.  The  basal  shoots  from  the  plants 
of  the  Multiflora  section  are  decidedly  stronger  and  ot 
more  upright  habit  than  those  from  the  Wichuraiana 
group,  which  are  much  more  lax,  and  tend,  if  not  tied 
up,  to  creep  along  the  ground.  On  account  of  this  lax 
habit  of  growth  many  of  the  Wichuraianas  are  specially 
adapted  for  growing  as  weeping  standards. 

With  three  exceptions,  the  Multiflora  hybrids  are 
summer  flowering  only  —  that  is,  they  have  no  second 
crop  of  flowers.  The  exceptions  are  Trier,  Perpetual 
Thalia,  and  Flower  of  Fairfield.  Though  fairly  strong 
growers,  the  first  two,  and  probably  the  third,  are  better 
adapted  for  bushes  or  low  pillars  than  for  screen  or 
pergola.  Trier  seems  the  best  of  the  three,  and  should 
be  in  every  garden.  It  is  creamy-white  with  a  fawn 
centre,  and  makes  a  nice  little  bush  4  to  5  feet  high  and 
3  to  4  feet  through.  As  soon  as  the  first  bloom  is  over 
it  begins  to  flower  anew,  sparsely  at  first,  but,  soon 
gathering  strength  again,  it  gives  a  good  crop  in  late 
summer  and  autumn.  The  foliage  is  dark  green  and 
good. 

Perpetual  Thalia  has  pyramidal  clusters  of  white 
flowers,  and  makes  a  bush  about  the  same  size,  but  the 
foliage  is  lighter  green.  The  flowers  are  apt  to  get  brown 
and  untidy  as  they  fade,  and  should  then  be  cut  off. 

Flower  of  Fairfield  is  the  Perpetual  Crimson  Rambler. 

Leaving  the  Perpetual  varieties,  the  following  lists  of 
summer-flowering  Multifloras  and  Wichuraianas  are  selected. 


TIME   OF   FLOWERING 


129 


The  varieties  marked  E  begin  to  flower  about  the  loth  or 
15th  of  June;  those  marked  M,  from  the  20th  to  the  end 
of  the  month  ;  and  those  marked  h,  towards  the  middle  of 
July. 

Multifloras 


PVAife. 
Griiss  an  Zabern  (E). 

Ye/Zow. 
Aglaia  (E). 
Goldfinch  (M). 

J'ink. 
American  Pillar  (M). 
Blush  Rambler  (M). 


Leuchtstern  (E). 
Tausendschon    (M).     Mildews 

badly. 
Tea  Rambler  (E). 


Crimson  Rambler  (M). 
Rubin  (M). 


Wichuraianas 


WMe  and  Cream. 
Alberic  Barbier  (E),  cream,  yel- 
low centre. 
Jersey  Beauty  (E),  cream,  single. 
White  Dorothy  (L),  white. 

Yellow. 
Gardenia  (E). 
Shower  of  Gold  (M). 

Pink. 
Debutante  (M). 
Dorothy  Perkins  (L). 


Frangois  Juranville  (M). 

Gerbe  Rose  (E). 

Joseph  Lamy  (E),  white,  heavily 
edged  pink. 

Lady  Godiva  (L),  pale  pink. 

Leontine  Gervais  (M),  salmon- 
pink. 

Minnehaha  (L). 

Rene  Andre  (E). 

Red. 
Diabolo  (M). 
Excelsa  (L),  new. 
Hiawatha  (L). 


Lady  Godiva  is  very  like  Dorothy  Dennison  and  Chris- 
tian   Curie,    and   the   plants    that   have    been    sent  me   as 


I30     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

Lady  Gay  I  am  unable  to  distinguish  for  garden  purposes 
from  Dorothy  Perkins.  There  may  be  sHght  differences  in 
each  case,  but  if  one  is  grown,  those  so  nearly  like  it  are 
not  wanted. 

Many  of  the  Wichuraianas  flower  again  sparsely  in 
autumn,  and  there  are  two,  Coquina  and  Mme.  Alice  Garnier, 
which  seem  to  produce  a  moderate  second  crop. 

OTHER   RAMBLING   ROSES 

Besides  the  Multiflora  and  Wichuraiana  groups,  there 
are  certain  strong-growing  Roses  from  other  groups  that 
may  be  used  for  similar  purposes  in  the  garden.  Of  these 
I  select  some  of  the  best : — 

Noisette. — Climbing  Aim^e  Vibert,  a  white  cluster  Rose, 
almost  evergreen,  and  flowering  in  summer  and  again  in 
autumn. 

Hybrid  Musk. — The  Garland,  summer  flowering  only, 
coming  into  flower  early  in  July.  Its  flowers  are  blush 
fading  to  white,  and  very  freely  produced. 

Ayrshire. — Dundee  Rambler,  white  with  pink  edges. 
This  is  a  very  vigorous  Rose,  and  may  be  grown  into  trees. 
It  flowers  early,  about  mid-June. 

Semperflorens. — F^licite  Perp6tue,  creamy-white,  a  very 
vigorous  Rose  that  does  well  in  very  exposed  gardens  and 
even  fairly  well  on  north  walls. 

Hybrid  Briar.  —  Una,  a  single,  large-flowered  Rose, 
creamy-white  in  colour. 

Boursaidt. — Inermis  Morletii,  a  thornless  Rose,  with 
light  rosy-pink  flowers  ;  early  flowering. 


CHAPTER   XXII 

ROSA   RUGOSA 

These  like  the  Wichuraianas  came  from  Japan,  and  like 
them  they  possess  very  good  qualities.  They  are  very  hardy 
and  free  from  disease ;  they  have  beautiful  and  strong 
foliage,  generally  rather  light  green  and  rough  ;  they  are 
not  particular  as  to  soil  or  situation,  and  they  do  well  in 
exposed  places,  and  even  near  the  sea.  They  are  very  sweetly 
scented.  It  was  from  among  their  ranks  that  Mons.  Jules 
Graveraux  selected  "Rose  a  Perfum  de  I'Hay"  as  the  most 
highly  perfumed  of  all  Roses.  They  are  perpetual  flower- 
ing, and  the  typical  Rugosas  have  brilliant  and  large  red  or 
orange-coloured  pips  in  the  autumn,  which  last  as  long  as 
the  birds  will  allow  them.  They  have  two  faults  :  one  is, 
the  flowers  are  deficient  in  form,  and  the  other,  they  do  not 
last  well  in  water.  Attempts  have  been  made  by  crossing 
to  remedy  these  defects,  and  the  production  of  Conrad  F. 
Meyer  and  its  sports  is  perhaps  the  most  successful  result 
of  these  crosses.  Unfortunately  the  improvement  in  form  has 
generally  taken  place  at  the  expense  of  the  autumn  berries. 

Out  of  a  large  number  of  varieties  the   following  are 
recommended : — 


White. 
Blanc  Double  de  Coubert. 
Mme.  Georges  Bruant. 


Repens  alba. 

Nova  Zembla  (sport  from  Conrad 
F.  Meyer). 


132 


PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 


S/mdes  of  Fink  and  Blush. 

Delicata. 

Thusnelda,    blush,    one    of    the 

best. 
Fimbriata,  with  serrated  edges. 
Mercedes. 
Conrad  F.  Meyer,  a  strong  grower 

with  shapely  flowers. 
Mme.    Lucienne    Willeminot,   a 

paler   sport    from   Conrad  F. 

Meyer ;    more    free-flowering 

than  its  parent. 
Mme.  Ballu. 
Rose-apples. 


Yellow. 

Daniel  Leseuer,  a  variety  with  a 
good  deal  of  resemblance  to 
the  Dijon  Teas. 


Red. 

Atropurpurea,  the  best  dark  red, 

very  bright  and  attractive. 
Carmen. 

Mrs.  Anthony  Waterer. 
Rose  a  Perfum  de  I'Hay. 


CHAPTER   XXIII 

ROSES   FOR   A   SMALL   GARDEN 

In  a  small  garden,  where  every  inch  is  of  value,  it  is  of  the 
greatest  importance  to  select  suitable  Roses.  Some  will 
prefer  chiefly  climbing  Roses,  others  bushes  and  standards 
for  decorating  the  garden,  others  again  may  set  their  hearts 
on  exhibition  Roses.  Whatever  scheme  is  decided  on  in  the 
small  garden,  the  owner  should  try  to  make  a  feature  of  it. 
If  he  wishes  to  have  bush  Roses  and  standards  for  garden 
decoration  he  should  not  employ  too  many  sorts,  but  he 
should  grow  several  plants  of  each  variety  he  selects.  If  he 
decides  to  grow  fifty  plants,  he  should  not  have  more  than, 
say,  ten  varieties  (except  as  experiments  in  an  out-of-the-way 
part  of  the  garden)  ;  if  he  grows  one  hundred  plants,  some 
dozen  or  fifteen  varieties  will  be  better  than  a  larger  number, 
and  in  either  case  he  should  keep  the  varieties  together  and  not 
try  chessboard  arrangement.  The  Rose  is  not  a  formal  plant, 
but  a  batch  of  several  of  the  same  kind  is  much  more  effective 
than  the  same  number  arranged  alternately  or  at  haphazard. 
In  the  following  list  I  have  purposely  omitted  Mme. 
Abel  Chatenay,  for,  popular  as  it  is,  it  is  not  easy  to  grow 
the  plant  to  look  well  in  a  garden  : — 

Dorothy  Perkins  (Wich.),  pink. 


Climbing  Roses. 
Rambling  Roses — 

Alberic  Barbier(VVichuraiana), 
white. 


Shower  of  Gold  (Wich.),  yellow. 
Hiawatha  (Wich.),  red. 
American   Pillar    (Multiflora), 
pink. 


134 


PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 


Rambling  Roses — 

Blush    Rambler    (Multiflora), 

pink. 
Crimson  Rambler  (Multiflora), 

red. 
Tea  Rambler  (Multiflora),  pink. 

Noisettes. 

Aimee  Vibert. 
Alister  Stella  Gray. 
Mme.  Alfred  Carriere. 
William  Allen  Richardson. 

Climbing  H.Th. 
Climbing  Caroline  Testout. 
Climbing  La  France. 
Climbing  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant. 

To  form  Big  Bushes. 

Gustave  Regis. 
Griiss  an  Teplitz. 
Zephirine  Drouhin. 

China  Roses. 
Common  Pink. 
Laurette  Messimy. 
Queen  Mab. 
Charlotte  Klemm. 

Bush  and  Bedding  Roses. 
Caroline  Testout  (H.T.). 
Commandant  Felix  Faure  (H.P.). 
Frau  Karl  Druschki  (H.T.). 
Gustav  Griinerwald  (H.T.). 
Joseph  Hill  (H.T.). 
La  France  (H.T.). 


Lady  Ashtown  (H.T.),  but  not 
if  the  garden  is  confined. 

Mme.  Antoine  Mari  (T.). 

Mme.  Jules  Grolez  (H.T.). 

Mme.  Leon  Pain(H.T.). 

Mme.  Lambard  (T.). 

Mme.  Ravary  (H.T.). 

Mrs.  E.  G.  Hill  (H.T.). 

Mrs.  R.  G.  Sharman  Crawford 
(H.P.). 

Molly  Sharman  Crawford  (T.). 

Pharisaer  (H.T.). 

Richmond  (H.T.). 

Suzanne  Marie  Rodocanachi 
(H.P). 

Exhibition  Roses  for  a  Small 

Exhibitor 

H.P:s:  Capt.  Hay  ward. 

Frau  Karl  Druschki. 

Mrs.  John  Laing. 

A.  K.  Williams. 

Hugh  Dickson  (see  Plate  L). 

Ulrich  Brunner. 
H.T.'s:  Caroline  Testout. 

Dean  Hole. 

Marquise  Litta. 

Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt. 

Lady  Ashtown. 

The  Lyons  Rose. 
Teas :  Maman  Cochet. 

White  Maman  Cochet. 

Medea. 

Mme.  Jules  Graveraux. 

Mme.  Constant  Soupert. 

Molly  Sharman  Crawford. 


CHAPTER   XXIV 
FRAGRANCE    IN    ROSES 

By  Mrs.  H.  R.  Darlington 

Fragrance  I  The  very  word  has  an  alluring  sound,  and 
transports  us  from  dusty  scenes  of  toil  and  the  irksome 
but  necessary  "daily  round  and  common  task"  to  wide- 
stretching  downs  and  moorlands  sweet  with  the  scent  of 
gorse  and  heather,  now  and  again  blent  with  salt-laden 
whiffs  from  the  not  far-distant  sea. 

Or  again  the  word  with  its  associations  may  lead  us  in 
fancy  to  some  old-time  garden  full  of  sweet-scented  flowers, 
where  the  great  hedges  of  lavender  and  rosemary,  the  beds 
gay  with  gillyflowers,  the  low-growing  mignonette,  and  the 
stately  Madonna  lilies  fill  the  air  with  a  variety  of  delicious 
perfumes.  In  such  a  garden  our  fancies  or  our  memories 
will  picture  for  us  huge  bushes  of  the  old  Cabbage  and 
Damask  Roses,  the  dusky  Tuscany,  and  the  charming 
Maiden's  Blush,  with  beds  of  the  aromatic  Moss  Roses 
bordered  by  the  tiny  Spong  and  De  Meaux,  and  here 
and  there  a  clump  of  Sweetbriars  to  remind  us  in  spring- 
time of  "  the  sweets  o'  the  year." 

Readers  of  Lord  Beaconsfield's  "  Lothair  "  will  remem- 
ber the  fair  Lady  Corisande's  garden,  into  which  no  flower 
without  perfume  was  admitted.  They  will  also  probably 
recall  the  inimitable  Lord  St.  Aldegonde's  sweeping  con- 


136     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

demnation  of  the  gardens  of  his  time :  "  How  I  hate 
modern  gardens  .  .  .  give  me  Cabbage  Roses,  Sweet  Peas, 
and  Wallflowers."  Here,  at  any  rate,  are  two  whole- 
hearted advocates  of  the  theory  that  fragrance  is  a  flower's 
most  precious  possession.  Fortunately,  even  if  we  hold 
this  same  opinion,  we  need  not  be  so  exclusive  as  St. 
Aldegonde ;  we  need  not  confine  ourselves  to  Cabbage 
Roses  1  Nor,  if  we  may  judge  from  the  length  of  time  it 
took  her  to  choose  a  Rose  for  her  lover,  did  Lady  Corisande. 
The  stroll  to  her  garden  is  said  to  have  taken  place  "after 
breakfast,"  and  we  know  that  many  hours  had  elapsed 
when  Lothair  on  returning  to  the  house  could  offer  no 
better  explanation  of  their  long  absence  and  their  forget- 
fulness  of  lunch  than  this  :  "  I  have  been  in  Corisande's 
garden,  and  she  has  given  me  a  Rose  ! " 

But  this  is  a  digression  ;  we  are  not  all  the  fortunate 
owners  of  the  site  of  an  ancient  garden  as  was  Disraeli's 
heroine,  but  I  imagine  almost  every  reader  of  this  book  has 
a  bit  of  ground  he  calls  his  garden,  and  he  can  if  he  will 
transform  a  part  or  the  whole  of  it  into  a  garden  for  sweet- 
scented  Roses,  thereby,  I  feel  sure,  laying  in  store  for  him- 
self and  others  an  unfailing  source  of  pleasure  and  delight. 
His  choice  will  be  very  large  even  among  modern  Roses. 
He  may  leave  out  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  but  he  will  be  sure 
to  include  Molly  Sharman  Crawford;  if  Baroness  Roths- 
child is  missing,  her  place  will  be  well  filled  by  La  France, 
Mrs.  John  Laing,  or  Madame  Maurice  de  Luze  ;  and  the 
presence  of  Franfois  Juranville  and  Gerbe  Rose  will  leave 
little  room  for  regret  that  Leuchtstern  and  Crimson  Rambler 
have  been  denied  a  place. 

The   Hybrid   Perpetuals  may  perhaps  be  neglected  by 


FRAGRANCE   IN    ROSES 


137 


those  who  look  for  a  continuous  display  of  colour  in 
bed  or  border  ;  but  those  in  search  of  fragrance  will  come 
to  this  class  first  of  all.  Indeed,  many  people  to  whom  the 
scent  of  the  Tea  Rose  is  scarcely  perceptible  will  claim 
that  here  only  among  modern  Roses  is  the  real  rose  scent 
to  be  found.  If  it  is  not  invidious  to  choose  among  such  a 
fragrant  company,  I  think  the  following  dozen  varieties  are 
unsurpassed  in  richness  and  endurance  of  perfume  : — 


Marie  Baumann, 
Etienne  Levet. 
Dupuy  Jamain. 
Senateur  Vaisse. 
General  Jacqueminot. 
Hugh  Dickson. 


Charles  Lefebvre. 
Commandant  Felix  Faure. 
Prince  Arthur. 
A.  K.  WilHams. 
Madame  Gabriel  Luizet. 
Horace  Vernet. 


Among  the  Hybrid  Teas  we  find  many  practically 
without  scent,  and  only  a  few,  I  think,  really  equal  the 
old  H.P.  in  this  respect.  But  there  are  undoubtedly  two 
Roses  that  may  well  claim  to  do  this,  the  pioneer  of 
this  class,  La  France,  and  its  blush  white  sport,  Augustine 
Guinoisseau,  the  latter  diffuses  its  fragrance  into  the  air 
in  the  way  a  honeysuckle  or  jasmine  does,  more  than 
any  Rose  I  know  ;  for  this  reason  a  bed  of  it  in  a  much 
frequented  part  of  the  garden  is  a  very  pleasant  posses- 
sion.    Other  fragrant  H.T.'s  are  : — 


Richmond. 

Chateau  de  Clos  Vougeot. 

Betty. 

Gladys  Harkness. 

John  Ruskin  (almost  an 

H.P.). 
Gustav  Grlinerwald. 


Viscountess  Folkestone. 
Johanna  Sebus. 
General  Mac  Arthur. 
Griiss  an  Teplitz. 
Princess  Bonnie. 
Mme.  Maurice  de  Luze. 
Lady  Alice  Stanley. 


138     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

Delicacy  of  form  and  colouring  are  certainly  attributes 
of  the  delightful  Tea  Roses,  and  I  think  we  may  add 
delicacy  of  scent  to  their  many  charms.  It  is  as  different 
in  quality  from  that  of  an  H.P.  or  Damask  as  one  flower 
smell  can  well  be  from  another — many  have  the  refreshing 
aroma  of  ripe  fruit,  and  others  justify  their  name  of 
"  tea  scented."  Catherine  Mermet  and  its  sports.  The 
Bride,  Bridesmaid,  and  Muriel  Grahame,  are  typical  of  the 
fruity  smell,  Innocence  and  Madame  Cusin  of  the  true 
tea  scent. 


Devoniensis, 

Socrates, 

Goubault, 

Souvenir  de  Wm.  Robinson, 


Molly  Sharman  Crawford, 
Souvenir  de  S.  A.  Prince, 
Souvenir  de  Stella  Gray, 
Lady  Roberts, 


are  all  finely  scented  Tea  Roses. 

The  Noisettes  can  boast  among  their  number  one 
of  the  most  powerfully  scented  of  all  Roses,  the  glorious 
Mar^chal  Niel. 

L' I  deal  and  Madame  Alfred  Carri^re  are  well  worth 
growing  in  any  garden  for  their  sweet  scent,  and  he 
who  has  a  greenhouse  or  a  very  sheltered  south  wall 
should  plant  Lamarque,  and  he  will  be  rewarded  with 
sheafs  of  soft  creamy-white  flowers  which  exhale  a  most 
delicate  fragrance. 

The  Bourbons  are  rather  out  of  fashion  nowadays — 
they  are  apt  to  be  somewhat  coarse  in  shape.  Unfortu- 
nately, one  of  the  sweetest  scented  among  these  Roses, 
Madame  Isaac  Pereire,  is  quite  indefensible  as  to  contour. 
But  a  beautiful  bunch  of  the  hybrid  Bourbon,  Z^phirine 
Drouhin  —  shown,    if   my    memory   serves    me    right,    by 


PLATE  VII 

FRAU   KARL   DRUSCHKI   (H.P.) 

(Slightly  reduced) 


FRAGRANCE    IN    ROSES         141 

Messrs.  Frank  Cant  &  Co.  some  few  years  ago  —  has 
deservedly  brought  back  to  our  gardens  one  of  the  most 
fragrant  and  charming  of  garden  Roses  in  existence,  one, 
too,  which  has  the  great  merit  of  being  able  to  set  at 
naught  the  old  proverb,  "  Every  rose  has  its  thorn." 
Neither  the  Chinas  nor  the  Dwarf  Polyanthas  are  specially 
fragrant  as  a  class,  though  most  of  the  Chinas  have  a 
pleasant  smell,  very  much  like  that  of  the  H.P.  Duke  of 
Edinburgh  ;  the  old  Common  Pink  and  Charlotte  Klemm 
belong  to  this  class  ;  while  Comtesse  du  Cayla,  Madame 
Eugene  Resal,  and  Laurette  Messimy  are  strongly  tea- 
scented. 

We  look  to  the  Dwarf  Polyanthas  more  for  brilliance 
of  colour  and  mass  of  bloom  than  for  fineness  of  form 
or  sweetness  of  scent ;  but  there  are  exceptions  to  this 
rule  ;  the  tiny  white  Rose  with  the  formidable  title,  Anna 
Maria  de  Montravel,  manages  to  store  quite  a  perceptible 
amount  of  fragrance  in  its  miniature  but  shapely  blossoms, 
as  do  Cecile  Brunner  and  the  curiously  coloured,  roughly 
shaped  L^onie  Lamesch ;  while  Eugenie  Lamesch,  as 
Mr.  George  Laing  Paul  pointed  out  to  me,  is  scented 
like  a  violet,  or  to  be  still  more  precise,  like  a  "  Marie 
Louise  "  violet. 

So  far  we  have  only  considered  the  more  or  less 
perpetual  flowering  Roses.  Among  the  bush  and  summer 
flowering  classes  we  find  some  of  the  sweetest  Roses. 
The  Alba,  Scotch,  and  Moss  Roses  are  all  more  or  less 
fragrant — Stan  well  Perpetual  Scotch  Rose,  delightfully  so. 

The  Rugosas,  some  of  which  are  true  autumnals,  are 
all  richly  endowed  in  the  matter  of  fragrance — so  much  so 
that  it  is  difficult  to  choose  from  among  them,  and  any  may 


142     PRESENT-DAY   GARDENING 

be  safely  planted  where  this  quality  is  the  first  consideration. 
None  is  sweeter  than  Conrad  F.  Meyer,  with  its  white 
sport  Nova  Zembla  ;  Rose  a  Perfum  de  I'Hay,  Blanc  Double 
de  Coubert,  and  Delicata. 

The  surpassingly  sweet  scent  of  the  old  Damask  and 
Provence  Roses  is  well  known,  but  perhaps  the  fragrance  of 
some  of  the  Rose  species  is  not  so  familiar  to  all.  Nitida, 
the  charming  little  shrub  with  clear  rose-coloured  flowers 
and  bright  red  stems  and  berries,  is  one  of  the  sweetest ; 
Nuttalliana,  which  does  not  produce  its  pretty  pink  blossoms 
till  late  July  or  early  August,  is  very  fragrant ;  the  beautiful 
creamy  Altiaca  has  a  scent  resembling  the  wild  Rose  ;  while 
the  resinous  perfume  of  Alpina  is  very  refreshing.  But  of 
all  Roses  known  to  me,  Indica  semperflorens  has  far  the 
strongest  aroma.  It  is  so  powerful  and  spicy  as  almost  to 
induce  a  sneeze  !  and  it  is  difficult  to  get  rid  of  the  scent 
when  it  has  once  been  inhaled. 

I  have  left  myself  but  little  space  to  consider  what 
claims  the  Rambling  Roses  have  to  rank  among  fragrant 
Roses.  Most  of  the  Multifloras  are  scentless.  Laure 
Davoust  is  the  only  striking  exception  that  occurs  to  me. 

Though  few  of  the  Wichuraianas  are  as  devoid  of 
perfume  as  Crimson  Rambler  or  Blush  Rambler,  yet  many 
of  the  Dorothy  Perkins'  type  are  only  slightly  scented. 
Debutante,  a  pale  pink,  has  a  very  sweet  scent,  and  some 
of  this  class  which  have  more  Tea  blood  in  them  retain 
the  fruity,  refreshing  fragrance  found  among  the  Teas. 
Fran9ois  Juranville,  a  delightful  Rose  in  every  respect,  is 
very  rich  in  this  perfume  ;  and  Gerbe  Rose,  as  Dr.  Williams 
has  noticed,  is  almost  as  sweet  as  Augustine  Guinoisseau. 
Alberic    Barbier,    L^ontine    Gervais,    Rene    Andr6,     Paul 


FRAGRANCE   IN    ROSES         143 

Transon,  and  a  few  others  of  this  class  are  decidedly  fra- 
grant. 

There  are,  of  course,  hundreds  of  Roses  not  mentioned 
here  which  possess  in  a  greater  or  less  degree  this  wonderful 
attribute  of  fragrance.  I  have  only  mentioned  those  I  know 
well,  and  with  the  single  exception  of  Madame  Isaac  Pereire, 
they  are  all  grown  in  our  own  garden.  Should  any  beginner 
wishing  to  start  a  rosary  chiefly  for  fragrant  Roses  consult 
this  book,  I  hope  he  will  not  be  disappointed  in  any  of 
the  varieties  I  have  recommended.  In  conclusion,  I  would 
advise  him  to  plant  round  his  garden  a  dwarf  hedge  of 
Sweetbriar  for  the  sake  of  its  leaves  "very  greene  and 
sweete  in  smell  above  the  leaves  of  any  other  kind  of 
Rose,"  and  at  a  little  distance  from  the  Roses,  to  shelter 
them  from  the  north  and  east,  a  tall  hedge  of  Lord 
Penzance's  Sweetbriars.  He  will  then  be  delighted  in  spring, 
before  even  the  earliest  Roses  are  in  bloom,  with  the  most 
refreshing  scent  of  the  garden,  that  of  Sweetbriar  leaves  aftei 
"  soft  showers." 


CHAPTER    XXV 

ROSE  SPECIES 

The  number  of  species  of  the  genus  Rosa  is  considerable, 
and  botanists  have  differed  a  good  deal  in  the  arrangement 
and  classification.  Sixteen  species  were  known  to  Linnaeus, 
and  to  these  De  Candolle  added  another,  the  Systylae. 
Lindley  in  his  Monograph  in  1820  recognised  76  species, 
which  he  divided  into  11  groups.  Regel  admitted  52 
species,  divided  into  15  groups  ;  Crdipin  made  a  somewhat 
complicated  division  of  the  species  into  16  groups  ;  and 
Baker,  in  a  paper  published  in  1905  in  the  Journal  of  the 
Linnean  Society,  recognised  69  species,  divided  into  11 
groups.  This  is  the  simplest  and  most  satisfactory  classi- 
fication yet  published,  and  I  have  followed  it  here.  Although 
the  species  are  so  numerous,  it  is  from  comparatively  few 
that  our  garden  Roses  have  been  derived. 

The  rambling  and  climbing  Roses  have  practically  all 
come  from  Roses  of  the  Systylae  group,  a  group  which 
includes  R.  arvensis,  the  common  white  Field  Roses  of 
our  hedges,  flowering  a  little  later  than  R.  canina ;  also 
R,  sempervirens,  the  Evergreen  Rose,  from  which  we  get 
Felicite  Perpetue  ;  R.  moschata,  the  Musk  Roses  (hyb.  the 
Garland),  R.  uiuUiflora  (hyb.  Crimson  Rambler),  R.  WicJm- 
raiana  {hyb.  Dorothy  Perkins),  and  R.  setigcra,  the  Prairie 
Rose  {hyb.  Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemberg). 


ROSE   SPECIES  145 

The  Noisettes  appear  to  be  hybrids  between  R.  moschata 
and  R.  indica.  The  bush  Roses  of  our  gardens  are  derived 
from  two  species  only,  R.  indica  and  R.  gallica.  R.  gallica 
includes  among  its  derivatives  Provincialis  centifolia  (the 
Cabbage  Roses),  muscosa  (the  Mosses),  Dauiascena  (the 
Damasks),  the  old  bifera  (gallica  x  moschata),  and  the 
Bourbons  (gallica  x  indica). 

The  Teas — aristocrats  of  the  garden — have  the  purest 
descent,  being  almost  entirely  derived  from  R.  indica,  and 
the  Chinas  have  a  like  descent,  while  the  H.P.'s  seem  to 
have  come  (it  is  almost  entirely  surmise)  from  R.  indica 
crossed  with  various  derivatives  of  R.  gallica,  the  progeny 
being  again  crossed  with  R.  indica.  Then  to  get  the  H.T.'s 
the  H.P.'s,  already  three-fourths  R.  indica,  were  again 
crossed  with  derivatives  from  that  wonderful  Rose.  But  in 
addition  to  our  ordinary  garden  Roses,  there  are  many 
species  and  hybrids  of  species  very  well  worth  growing 
by  those  who  can  find  room  for  them.  I  will  take  them 
in  Baker's  order. 

Group  I. — The  single-leafed  Rose  R.  herberidifolia  has 
given  us  a  pretty  little  hybrid  named  Berheridifolia  Hardii ; 
it  is  a  small  Rose  with  yellow  petals,  each  of  which  has  a 
chocolate  blotch  at  the  base.  In  spite  of  its  name  it  is 
rather  tender,  but  might  do  well  in  the  south  of  England. 

Group  II.,  Systylae. — I  have  already  referred  to,  but 
there  are  three  hybrids  of  R.  moschata  I  must  mention. 

1.  Brnnonis  is  a  beautiful  pure  white  cluster  Rose,  rather 
late  in  flowering,  growing  8  or  9  feet  high,  not  very  hardy, 
best  on  a  wall. 

2.  Pissardii  has  the  advantage  of  being  a  perpetual 
flowering  Rose  ;  there  is  a  rampant  pink  form  and  a  white 

K 


146     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

variety,  more  free  flowering,  but  less  vigorous  in  growth  ; 
both  make  good  pillars. 

3.  Nivea,  a  cross  with  R.  gallica,  is  a  strong  grower, 
with  white  flowers. 

R.  setigera,  which  is  a  species  of  the  same  group,  is 
hardy,  and  makes  a  big  bush,  with  pretty  single  pink 
flowers. 

Group  III. — The  Banksians,  white  and  yellow,  are  well- 
known  climbing  Roses,  but  rather  tender.  They  require 
practically  no  pruning,  and  if  grown  out  of  doors  are  best 
on  a  wall. 

R.  Icevigata,  in  this  group,  has  given  us  a  beautiful 
hybrid  in  Sinica  Anemone,  with  large,  single  pink  flowers  ; 
it  is  an  early  Rose,  flowering  on  a  south  wall  soon  after 
the  middle  of  May. 

Group  IV.,  Bracteatae. — Comprises  R.  lucida  and  clyno- 
Phylla.  R.  lucida  plena  is  a  pretty  little  Rose,  with  double 
pink  flowers.  The  pink  has  the  least  tinge  of  purple  in  it, 
which,  like  that  of  Madame  Jules  Grolez,  is  difficult  to  har- 
monise with  other  Roses. 

Group  V.,  Microphyllae. — R.  microphylla  is  a  pretty  little 
single  Rose,  with  very  curious  buds  and  graceful  foliage  ;  it 
grows  2-3  feet  high,  and  may  be  used  on  the  rockery. 

Group  VI.,  Cinnamomeae. — Contains  a  large  number  ot 
species.  R.  cinnamomea  itself  has  single  pink  flowers  with 
a  cinnamon  scent,  and  long,  twisted  sepals  projecting  beyond 
the  petals  ;  its  red  stems  in  winter  are  attractive. 

R.  macrophylla  has  very  large  leaves  and  curious,  flask- 
shaped  hips.  It  has  a  stiff,  upright  habit  of  growth,  and  the 
sepals  are  toothed,  and  longer  than  the  petals. 

R.  sericea  is  unique  among  Roses  in  having  only  four 


ROSE    SPECIES  147 

petals  arranged  like  a  Maltese  cross.  The  best  garden 
forms  have  pure  white  flowers,  though  there  appear  to  be 
varieties  with  pink  and  also  with  yellow  tinged  flowers. 
There  are  two  forms,  which  differ  chiefly  in  the  thorns. 
These  are  strong  and  numerous  in  S.  tetrapetala,  slightly 
recurved,  while  in  the  V3.nety  pteracantha  they  are  enormously 
dilated  at  the  base,  which  is  sometimes  1^  inch  long.  The 
young  stems,  with  their  red  prickles,  look  very  bright  in 
winter  sunshine.  Both  forms  are  worth  growing.  The 
foliage  is  very  fern-like  and  beautiful,  and  the  berries 
orange  coloured. 

The  form  of  R.  beggeriana  in  my  possession  has  white 
flowers,  with  a  curious,  not  altogether  pleasing  scent ;  it  is  a 
Rose  for  the  shrubbery. 

Fedschenkoana,^  Nutkana,  and  Fendleri  make  good  shrub- 
bery Roses.  R.  riigosa  I  have  already  mentioned.  R.  humilis 
is  a  charming  little  single  pink  rose,  with  two  flowering 
periods  in  the  year.     It  might  be  useful  for  the  rockery. 

R.  nitida  and  R.  foliolosa  are  two  of  the  best  of  the 
species.  They  are  referred  to  in  the  chapter  on  Roses  for 
Rock  Work. 

Group  VI 1.,  Spinosissimae. — Includes  a  large  number  of 
forms  useful  in  the  garden. 

R.  hemisphcerica  is  a  well-known  double  yellow  rose, 
difficult  to  flower  well.  A  garden  form  of  this  rose,  Persian 
Yellow,  is  however  worth  growing  for  its  deep  yellow 
colouring. 

R.  spinosissima  itself  is  the  Burnet  Rose  ;  from  this  are 
derived  the  Scotch  Roses,  of  which  there  are  white,  blush, 

^  A  hybrid  between  Fedschenkoana  and  R.  rugosa  is  a  more  beautiful  garden 
Rose  than  either  of  its  parents.     It  has  white  flowers,  and  is  perpetual. 


148     PRESENT-DAY   GARDENING 

pink,  and  yellow  forms  growing  2-3  feet  high,  and  very 
useful  for  low  hedges. 

Stanwell  Perpetual  is  blush  white,  and  has  a  second 
flowering. 

Altaica  (Lindley's  grandiflora)  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  species  ;  it  has  large  single,  cream-coloured  flowers 
and  handsome  foliage.  In  a  fine  summer  there  is  sometimes 
a  sparse  second  flowering.  It  makes  a  good  hedge  about 
4  feet  high.  The  fruits  are  a  dark  purple.  Hispida  and 
Xanthina  are  good  yellow  varieties,  also  with  good  foliage 
and  a  similar  habit  to  Altaica. 

R.  aipina  is  thornless  ;  it  grows  about  5-6  feet  high,  and 
has  blood-red  flowers.  There  is  a  variety,  pendidina,  with 
even  more  decorative  foliage,  and  a  small  form,  pyretiaica, 
with  a  few  thorns  ;  useful  for  the  rockery. 

R.  hlanda  may  be  planted  in  the  open  shrubbery  ;  it  is 
doubly  useful  for  its  red  winter  stems. 

Group  VIII.,  Gallicanae. — This  group  includes  the 
Cabbage  Roses,  the  Mosses,  and  Damask  Roses.  The 
varieties  of  R.  gallica  are  showy,  and  they  furnished  the 
exhibition  Roses  of  the  first  half  of  last  century.  Turner's 
Crimson  Damask  and  Lady  Curzon  are  garden  varieties 
belonging  to  this  group. 

Group  IX.,  Caninae. — R.  indica  belongs  to  this  group, 
and  our  modern  garden  Roses  are  largely  derived  from  it. 

R.  indica,  "  Miss  Willmott,"  is  an  interesting,  copper- 
coloured  variety.  There  is  a  tall  form  known  as  Major  ;  a 
variety  of  R.  indica  semperflorens  sent  me  recently  has  the 
most  powerful  aromatic  scent  of  any  Rose  known  to  me. 

R.  canina  and  its  varieties  are  the  Dog  Roses  of  the 
hedges.     R.  macrantha  is  a  garden  variety  supposed  to  be 


ROSE   SPECIES  149 

a  cross  between  canina  and  a  variety  of  gallica.  It  is  a 
most  beautiful  rose,  with  pale,  flesh-coloured  single  flowers 
tinged  somewhat  deeper  towards  the  edges,  and  bright 
yellow  stamens.  It  is  very  useful  for  arranging  on  dinner 
tables  or  for  other  indoor  decoration,  for  which  purpose  it 
should  be  picked  as  the  flowers  are  just  opening.  Andersoni, 
with  single  pink  flowers,  is  another  useful  garden  seedling 
of  R.  canina  and  R.  arvensis. 

Group  X.,  Villosae,  the  Hairy  Roses. — Many  of  these 
are  natives  of  England,  and  common  in  the  Lake  District. 

Group  XI. — Rubiginosae  is  the  Sweetbriar  group.  Be- 
side the  Sweetbriars,  it  includes  R.  seraphini,  a  delightful 
little  Corsican  Rose,  useful  on  the  rockery,  and  R.  ferox,  the 
Hedgehog  Rose,  a  low-growing,  hardy  little  Rose,  sometimes 
called  The  Bird's  Nest  from  the  dense  tangle  it  makes. 


CHAPTER   XXVI 

THE    BRITISH    ROSES 

Rose-lovers  ought  not  to  confine  their  interest  in  the  Rose 
to  their  own  or  even  their  friends'  gardens.  There  is  the 
large  garden  of  Nature  open  to  them,  and  I  feel  that  this 
small  book  would  be  incomplete  without  a  chapter  on  our 
native  British  Roses.  Of  these  wild  Roses  there  are  five 
main  divisions  : 

1.  Rosa  arvensis.  I       4.  Rosa  villosa  (Hairy  Rose). 

2.  ,,     spinosissima.  5.      „     rubiginosa       (Sweet- 

3.  „     canina  (Dog  Rose).  |  briars). 

I.  R.  arvensis,  the  late  Wild  Rose,  the  Field  Rose. — 
This  beautiful  wild  Rose  opens  about  ten  days  later  than 
the  Dog  Rose,  and  is  the  first  most  people  learn  to  dis- 
tinguish from  the  Dog  Rose.  The  flowers  have  pure  white 
petals,  with  yellow  base  and  brilliant  yellow  stamens  ;  in 
some  varieties  the  petals  are  a  pale  blush,  and  the  Rose  is 
easily  distinguishable  by  the  styles  which,  instead  of  form- 
ing a  little  pincushion  like  canina,  are  gummed  together 
into  a  central  column  as  long  or  longer  than  the  stamens. 
When  not  in  flower  it  is  equally  easy  to  distinguish,  for 
the  stems   are  very  flexuous   and  trailing,  never   forming 

^  See  Major  Wolley-Dod's  elaborate  treatises  published  as  supplements  to  ihe 
Journal  of  Botany,  and  obtainable  separately  (l)  on  Eti-canince,  (2)  on  British 
Roses  except  Eu-canince. 

ISO 


THE    BRITISH    ROSES  151 

strong  arching  shoots  Hke  R.  canina.  It  is  quite  common 
in  the  hedges,  and  often  forms  dense  bushes  or  thickets. 
The  fruits  are  round  and  smooth. 

2.  R.  spinosissima — the  Burnet  Rose — makes  small 
bushes  from  a  few  inches  to  over  2  feet  in  height,  according 
to  the  soil  and  locality.  It  has  numerous,  unequal  and 
straight  prickles,  and  from  seven  to  eleven  little  leaflets 
packed  closely  together  on  each  leaf,  producing  a  graceful 
and  fern-like  effect.  The  flowers  are  solitary,  and  white  or 
cream  coloured,  the  styles  collected  together  into  a  woolly 
head.  The  fruits  are  dark  purple,  nearly  black  when  ripe. 
Very  near  relatives  of  this  little  Rose  are  the  Scotch  Roses 
and  some  of  the  single  garden  Roses  like  Altaica.  There  is 
a  variety  well  known  in  botanic  gardens  called  Rubella,  with 
rose-coloured  flowers  and  red  fruits. 

3.  R.  canina,  the  Dog  Rose. — This  is  the  common 
Rose  of  our  hedges.  The  flowers  last  but  two  days,  and 
generally  appear  in  Hertfordshire  (according  to  Mr.  Mawley's 
careful  observations)  about  the  middle  of  June.  There 
are  numerous  varieties ;  something  like  150  have  been 
described.  They  may  be  roughly  divided  into  five  sub- 
groups, (i.)  In  Canina  proper  or  Lutetiana  the  leaves  are 
quite  hairless  (glabrous),  and  the  sepals  are  reflexed  after  the 
petals  fall,  (ii.)  Dumetorum  is  similar,  but  has  some  hairs 
on  the  underside  of  the  leaf,  if  only  on  the  mid-rib.  (iii.) 
Glauca  (which,  as  Cr^pin  pointed  out,  replaces  Lutetiana  in 
the  north  and  hilly  districts)  is  hairless,  has  rather  shorter 
leaf-stalks,  woolly  styles  in  a  flat  head,  and  the  sepals  rise 
over  the  top  of  the  bract  after  the  petals  fall,  (iv.)  Coriifolia 
is  similar  to  Glauca,  but  more  or  less  hairy  under  the  leaf, 
(v.)  Tomentella  (or  Borreri)  have  usually  glands  at  least  in 


152     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

the  secondary  nerves  of  the  underside  of  the  leaf,  well- 
developed  sepals,  strong  hooked  prickles,  and  roundish 
leaves  with  double  teeth  ;  in  fact  they  approach  the  Sweet- 
briars. 

4.  R.  villosa — the  Hairy  Rose — is  by  no  means  un- 
common in  the  hedges.  The  leaves  are  covered  with  hair 
or  down  on  both  upper  and  lower  surfaces.  The  plants  are 
usually  short,  2  or  3  feet,  and  the  prickles  straight  or  nearly 
so,  and  the  flowers  a  deep  rose.  This  group  includes  R. 
pomifera,  R.  mollis,  and  R.  omissa,  which  are  often  grown 
in  gardens,  especially  the  first.  The  difference  between 
Pomifera  and  Mollis  is  small  and,  for  garden  purposes, 
negligible.  Pomifera  has  rather  larger  leaves  and  fewer 
prickles.  Both  have  shiny,  brown  bark  stems,  and  the  hairy 
covering  gives  a  bluish  look  to  the  leaves.  They  flower  at 
the  beginning  of  summer,  and  the  fruit,  which  is  large  and 
pulpy,  ripens  before  that  of  Omissa. 

The  group  of  R.  tomentosa,  which  also  belongs  to  this 
species,  is  nearer  R.  canina,  being  taller,  and  with  arching 
branches,  and  the  prickles  stout  and  bent,  though  perhaps 
not  hooked. 

5.  R.  rubiginosa,  the  Sweetbriar. — This  section  is  dis- 
tinguished by  the  sweet-scented  glands  with  which,  when 
looked  at  through  a  low-power  microscope,  the  under 
surfaces  of  the  leaves  are  densely  covered,  but  they  are 
never  so  densely  and  softly  hairy  on  the  upper  leaf  surface 
as  in  R.  villosa.  There  are  four  groups — two  dwarf,  with 
unequal  prickles,  viz.  R.  eglanteria,  with  hairy  leaf-stalks, 
and  R.  elliptica,  with  smooth  ones,  and  two  taller  groups 
with  equal  prickles,  viz.  micrantha  with  hairy  and  agrcstis 
with  smooth  leaf-stalks. 


THE    BRITISH    ROSES  153 

Besides  these  principal  classes  there  are  intermediate 
groups  and  varieties  which  are  very  numerous.  Thus 
R.  stylosa  is  a  group  of  varieties  intermediate  between  the 
first  and  third  sections  {R.  arvensis  and  R.  canina),  some 
varieties  approaching  one,  some  the  other  species.  It  has 
dark,  shining  green  leaves.  The  flowers  are  white,  and  the 
styles  united  as  in  R.  arvensis,  but  the  column  is  not  so  long, 
and  the  stems  and  branches  are  stronger  and  less  pliant. 

R.  involuta  and  R.  Sahini  are  intermediate  between 
the  second  and  fourth  sections  {R.  spinosissima  and  R. 
villosa).  The  Irish  Rose,  R.  hihernica,  is  intermediate 
between  the  second  and  third  sections  {R.  spinosissima 
and  R.  canina),  while  intermediate  forms  between  the  second 
and  fifth  sections  {R.  spinosissima  and  R.  ruhiginosa)  have 
been  found  in  R.  biturigensis  and  its  varieties. 

Those  who  are  interested  in  the  subject  are  advised  in 
the  first  place  to  make  themselves  acquainted  with  the  five 
typical  sections  of  wild  British  Roses.  In  that  task  they  will 
find  little  difficulty  unless  it  be  at  first  with  R.  villosa,  and 
afterwards  to  take  up  the  intermediate  forms  and  sub- 
divisions. They  will  find  the  study  will  well  repay  them 
in  the  interest  it  arouses. 


CHAPTER    XXVII 
ROSES    UNDER    GLASS 

There  are  three  ways  of  growing  Roses  under  glass  : — 

1.  Roses  in  pots. 

2.  Roses  on  their  own  roots  on  shallow  benches. 

3.  Roses  permanently  planted  out. 

The  first  is  the  method  generally  employed  by,  and 
most  suitable  for,  amateurs  with  "  a  bit  of  glass." 

The  second  and  third  require  a  house  devoted  to  Roses 
alone.  The  second,  i.e.  growing  on  shallow  benches,  is 
the  method  commonly  employed  in  America.  The  third 
method  is  not  satisfactory  for  obtaining  flowers  in  winter, 
but  it  yields  a  good  supply  of  spring  Roses. 

I.  Roses  in  Pots.^ — I  have  called  this  the  most  suit- 
able method  for  amateurs,  because  it  does  not  necessarily 
involve  a  house  devoted  to  Roses  only.  Where  facilities 
exist,  no  doubt  a  house  devoted  exclusively  to  Roses  has 
its  advantages,  but  probably  the  majority  of  amateurs  do 
not  possess  such  a  house,  but  have  to  do  the  best  with  the 
means  at  their  disposal.  I  am  amused  and  interested  to 
find  from  Mr.  Holland's  paper  in  the  Rose  Annual,   191 1, 

^  See  an  article  by  Mr.  E.  J.  Holland  in  the  ^ose  Annual,  191 1,  p.  159,  and 
one  by  Mr.  George  Mount,  R.  H.  S.  Journal,  1902-3,  vol.  xxvii.  p.  542. 


ROSES    IN    POTS  155 

that  he  and  I  both  began  growing  Roses  under  glass  in 
the  same  way,  that  is,  we  potted  up  our  cripples.  Finding 
I  could  do  little  good  in  the  open  ground  with  such  Roses 
as  Georges  Schwartz  and  Etoile  de  France,  I  potted  them 
up  to  get  the  flowers  under  glass  I  could  not  obtain  outside. 
Doubtless  many  amateurs  have  done  the  same  before  us 
and  will  do  so  again. 

The  plants  should  either  be  obtained  from  nurserymen 
specially  prepared  for  forcing,  which  is  probably  the  best 
course,  or  if  one's  own  plants  are  to  be  used,  they  should 
be  lifted  from  the  open  ground  and  potted  into  8-inch  pots. 
The  soil  should  have  been  prepared  beforehand,  by  making 
a  heap  of  turf  in  the  spring,  sifting  a  layer  of  manure 
between  each  layer  of  turf.  At  potting  time  the  heap  is 
broken  down  and  chopped  up,  but  not  too  finely,  and 
mixed  with  a  little  sand  and  broken  charcoal,  just  enough 
to  keep  the  soil  open,  adding  a  little  bone-meal  and  wood- 
ashes  if  available.  The  junction  of  the  bud  or  Rose  with 
the  stock  on  which  it  is  worked  should  just  be  covered 
with  the  soil,  which  must  be  made  very  firm  and  rammed 
hard  with  a  stick  or  the  handle  of  the  trowel. 

At  the  same  time  of  the  year  any  Roses  that  have  been 
previously  grown  in  pots  should  be  looked  over  and  the 
drainage  removed  and  fresh  crocks  and  clean  pots  sub- 
stituted, adding  a  little  coarse  charcoal  at  the  bottom  of 
the  pot.  The  top  inch  or  so  of  soil  should  be  removed 
and  a  rich  top-dressing  put  in  its  place.  Do  not  hesitate 
to  discard  any  weakly  and  unsatisfactory  plants. 

If  the  plants  are  wanted  to  flower  really  early,  say 
in  January  and  February  (the  newly-potted  plants  will 
not  be  satisfactory  ;    they  must  wait  till   next  year),  only 


156     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

plants  established  in  pots  can  be  used.  These  are  to  be 
pruned  and  brought  indoors  in  November. 

Few  amateurs  will,  however,  want  their  Roses  as 
early  as  this,  and  most  will  be  content  to  begin  pruning 
in  December,  bringing  them  indoors  by  the  beginning 
of  the  new  year.  Another  batch  may  be  brought  in  a 
fortnight  later,  and  a  third  at  the  beginning  of  February. 
I  think  it  best  to  leave  them  outside  for  a  short  time 
after  pruning,  unless  the  weather  is  very  severe.  As 
regards  pruning,  it  must  be  very  severe,  the  plants  being 
cut  right  down,  leaving  only  two  or  three  buds  as  if  prun- 
ing for  exhibition. 

When  the  plants  are  brought  indoors,  they  should 
not  be  forced,  but  allowed  to  start  in  a  cool  tempera- 
ture. The  plants  should  be  syringed  from  time  to  time. 
Mr.  Mount  advises  that  this  should  cease  when  the 
leaves  appear,  but  I  think  that  most  of  us  continue  it 
till  the  buds  begin  to  open.  Mildew  must  be  kept  in 
check  by  painting  the  hot-water  pipes  with  sulphur  or 
with  a  mixture  of  lime  and  sulphur,  but  do  not  use 
too  much.  I  paint  about  a  yard  occasionally,  which  is 
generally  sufficient.  A  little  weak  liquid  manure  should 
be  given  from  time  to  time  to  help  the  plants  in  their 
growth. 

Treated  in  this  way,  a  supply  of  Roses  will  be  ob- 
tained from  the  middle  of  March  onwards.  After  their 
first  flowering,  a  second  crop  of  flowers  may  be  obtained 
from  the  Teas  and  H.T.'s  about  May. 

Throughout  their  growing  period  watering  should 
receive  careful  attention,  and  a  rather  moist  atmosphere 
should    be    maintained.     It   is   usual    to   find    the   plants 


THE   AMERICAN    METHOD     157 

over-watered  early  in  the  year  and  under-watered  later, 
when  the  foliage  is  vigorous  and  the  sun  powerful.  These 
faults  must  be  carefully  guarded  against. 

After  the  flowering  is  over,  the  pots  may  be  taken 
outside  and  plunged  in  a  bed  of  coal  ashes  till  the 
autumn.  Watering  must  then  be  carefully  attended  to, 
and  a  little  weak  manure  water  given  from  time  to  time 
in  order  to  build  up  good  plants  for  next  year. 

The  following  is  a  good  selection  of  Roses  for  culture 
in  pots  : — 


Bridesmaid. 

Frau  Karl  Druschki. 

General  Jacqueminot. 

Killarney. 

Lady  Faire  (Joseph  Low). 

Mme.  Leon  Pain. 


Mrs.  A.  R.  Waddell. 
Mrs.  John  Laing. 
Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant. 
Pharisaer. 
Richmond. 
The  Bride. 


2.  The  American  Method — It  is  claimed  that  this 
method  is  the  most  satisfactory  for  securing  a  supply 
of  Roses  throughout  the  winter.  A  span-roofed  house, 
running  north  and  south,  is  provided,  and  this  is  fitted 
with  rows  of  benches  running  round  the  house  and  down 
the  centre.  The  benches  are  made  of  i^-inch  boards  6 
inches  deep,  the  bottoms  being  of  3 -inch  battens  nailed 
^  inch  apart.  The  benches  are  conveniently  about  2  feet 
6  inches  wide,  and  the  top  of  the  side  benches  should 
be  3  feet  9  inches  below  the  roof.  The  plants  are  pre- 
pared  by  striking  cuttings  in   a  hotbed  in  February  from 

^  An  elaborate  account  of  this  method  appeared  in  a  paper  by  Miss  A, 
Dorrance,  entitled  "Rose  P'orcing  in  America,"  in  vol.  xxvii.  of  the  R.  II,  S. 
Journal,  p.  459.  A  simpler  and  excellent  account  of  the  same  method  is  given 
by  Mr.  C.  R.  Fielder  in  the  Rose  Annual,  1909,  p.  136. 


158     PRESENT-DAY   GARDENING 

shoots  that  have  just  flowered.  When  rooted,  they  are 
potted  into  5-inch  pots  and  grown  on  till  the  end  of 
May.  They  are  then  planted  out  on  the  benches  in  a 
compost  previously  prepared  by  stacking  three  parts  of 
fibrous  loam  and  one  part  of  cow  manure. 

Two  rows  of  Roses,  15  inches  apart,  are  planted  in 
each  bench,  and  the  soil  made  very  firm.  Watering 
must  be  done  with  judgment,  and  a  night  temperature 
of  55°  maintained,  all  flowers  being  removed  till  six 
weeks  before  the  time  when  flowers  are  wanted.  No 
ventilation  is  given  during  winter.  The  Roses  so  grown 
may  be  grown  on  for  two  or  three  years,  and  then  a 
fresh  start  made  with  new  cuttings. 

Roses  suitable  for  this  method  are  Liberty,  Caroline 
Testout,  The  Bride,  and  Bridesmaid. 

By  this  method  Roses  may  be  had  from  October  to 
February,  another  short  blooming  season  being  ob- 
tained at  the  end  of  May. 

3.  Roses   Planted  out  under  Glass The   span-roof 

is  the  best  form  of  house,  and  the  Roses  are  planted  as 
early  in  the  autumn  as  convenient. 

At  the  beginning  of  January  they  are  pruned,  and 
the  house  kept  close  and  damp  to  get  them  to  start  well. 
The  first  crop  may  be  had  towards  the  end  of  April  or 
in  May,  the  second  in  June,  and  a  few  flowers  may  be 
obtained  in  autumn. 


CHAPTER    XXVIII 

DISEASES    AND    PESTS 

Whether  it  arises  from  the  length  of  time  the  Rose  has 
been  cultivated  as  a  garden  plant,  or  whether  cultivation 
has  developed  its  flowers  at  the  expense  of  its  constitution, 
by  general  consent  the  Rose  is  exposed  to  many  foes. 

Diseases  take  the  form  of  several  species  of  parasitic 
fungi,  of  which  some  eight  or  ten  are  more  or  less  commonly 
found  in  gardens  ;  while  as  for  pests,  innumerable  insect 
foes  find  the  Rose  a  favourite  source  of  sustenance,  to  the 
annoyance  of  the  rosarian,  who  is  compelled  to  devote  a 
large  part  of  his  time  during  the  summer  months  to  restrict- 
ing or  guarding  against  their  rapacity.  So  soon  as  his 
spring  pruning  is  over,  nay,  even  during  its  course,  he 
must  begin  the  watch  for  the  foe,  and  the  watch  must 
continue  without  cessation  till  the  autumn  frosts  bring  the 
Rose  year  to  a  close. 

DISEASES 

Rose  Mildew  {Sphcerotheca  pannosa). — This  is  the  com- 
monest of  Rose  diseases  ;  it  appears  as  a  greasy  mould, 
first  on  the  leaves  and  later  on  the  stems. 

Every  summer  there  are  two  phases  of  the  attack.  The 
first  is  early,  and  generally  of  a  mild  type,  and  so  is  often 


i6o     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

overlooked,  but  it  is  important  to  check  the  disease  at  its 
first  appearance  in  order  to  prevent  serious  trouble  later  on. 
The  early  attack  is  confined  to  the  leaves,  making  its  ap- 
pearance when  the  leaves  are  fully  grown.  The  more 
serious  attack  takes  place  towards  the  end  of  July  and  in 
August.  First  the  leaves  are  affected  and  then  the  flower- 
stalks.  In  the  autumn  the  disease  extends  to  the  stems  of 
the  plants  as  white  cottony  tufts  which  carry  the  winter 
spores. 

It  has  been  suggested  that  the  disease  might  be  checked 
in  winter  by  soaking  the  stems  and  soil  with  Bordeaux 
Mixture,  but  I  have  been  unable  to  find  that  the  parts  of  the 
garden  which  have  been  so  treated  have  proved  any  more 
free  from  the  disease  than  those  which  were  left  untreated. 

Mr.  G.  L.  Paul  tells  me  that  he  has  noticed  in  France 
that  those  parts  of  the  country  which  have  no  hedges  are 
free  from  the  disease,  while  in  the  parts  where  hedges 
abound  the  mildew  appears  as  it  does  with  us.  In  this 
country  it  is  well  known  that  plants  in  an  open  situation 
suffer  less  than  those  where  the  circulation  of  air  is  restricted. 
It  is  virtually  impossible  to  treat  with  copper  solution  all  the 
trees  and  foliage  in  the  garden,  and  if  these  harbour  the 
mildew  spores  during  winter,  merely  destroying  those  on 
the  Roses  themselves  is  insufficient,  and  scarcely  worth  the 
time  involved. 

The  old-fashioned  remedy  for  mildew  was  to  powder 
the  leaves  with  flowers  of  sulphur,  and  this  is  still  recom- 
mended by  the  Germans,  who  think  it  has  the  incidental 
advantage  of  improving  the  character  of  the  flowers.  There 
is  no  doubt  that  under  glass  sulphur  is  the  most  convenient 
treatment,  and  by  making  a  mixture  of  lime  and  sulphur, 


DISEASES  i6i 

either  painted  on  a  part  of  the  hot-water  pipes  or  placed  on 
a  board  over  them,  a  slight  vapour  of  sulphur  is  formed 
which  is  usually  sufficient  to  keep  mildew  in  check.  But 
out  of  doors  in  this  country  I  think  that  flowers  of  sulphur 
are  only  really  effectual  during  hot  weather,  and  that, 
under  normal  conditions,  spraying  is  by  far  the  best  means 
of  combating  the  disease. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  spraying  does  not  cure 
the  disease,  but  merely  prevents  it  spreading  ;  it  is  there- 
fore important  to  begin  early  and  continue  systematically 
spraying  the  plants,  if  possible,  once  a  week,  or  at  least 
once  a  fortnight.  The  time  to  begin  is  as  soon  as  the 
leaves  have  fully  unfolded,  before  any  mildew  is  seen,  and 
if  this  is  done  and  carefully  followed  up,  it  is  effectual. 

As  to  the  fungicide  to  be  used  in  the  spray,  there 
are  several  on  the  market  all  fairly  effectual.  In  my 
own  garden  I  use  either  White's  Abol,  which  I  find 
less  trouble  than  any  other,  or  Cyllin  soft  soap,  i  ounce 
to  the  gallon  of  water,  adding  an  extra  teaspoonful  of  Cyllin 
itself  to  each  gallon.  This  is  a  little  cheaper  than  Abol, 
but  rather  more  trouble  to  make  up.  The  best  plan  is 
to  heat  I  pound  of  Cyllin  soft  soap  in  |  gallon  (4  pints) 
of  water  in  an  old  saucepan,  adding  to  this  2^  ounces 
of  pure  Cyllin  and  storing  it  for  use,  taking  for  the 
spray  5  ounces  of  the  sticky  liquid  so  formed  to  the 
gallon  of  water. 

Sulphide  of  potash  is  also  a  potent  fungicide  used 
early  in  the  season  at  the  rate  of  i  ounce  to  10  gallons 
of  water,  and  later  at  double  this  strength. 

Other  useful  preparations  for  the  purpose  are  Wright's 
Moeffic  and  Cooper's  V  2  K  fluid, 

h 


i62     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

Roses  vary  much  in  their  susceptibiHty  to  mildew. 
As  a  class,  the  Teas,  the  Chinas,  and  the  Wichuraianas 
are  generally  free  from  the  trouble. 

The  following  is  a  short  list  of  Roses  which  are, 
so  far  as  my  experience  goes,  commonly  liable  to  attack, 
and  therefore  require  special  and  continuous  watchful- 
ness to  prevent  an  outbreak.  The  list  is  not  exhaustive, 
and  is  confined  to  good  Roses  which  are  worth  growing, 
notwithstanding  their  liability  to  mildew. 

Decidedly  subject  to  Mildew 


Aenchen  Miiller. 
Conrad  F.  Meyer. 
Crimson  Rambler. 
Her  Majesty. 
Killarney. 


Lady  Curzon. 

Leuchtstern. 

Mme.  Gabriel  Luizet. 

Marquise  de  Salisbury. 

Mrs.  O.  G.  Orpen. 


Frau  Karl  Druschki. 
Grand  Due  A.  de  Luxem- 
bourg. 
Lady  Ashtown. 
Mme.  Jules  Grolez. 


Rather  subject  to  Mildew 

Mrs.  Cutbush. 


Mrs.  John  Laing. 
Mrs.  R.  G.  Sharman  Craw- 
ford. 
Viscountess  Folkestone. 


And  for  their  respective  classes  which  are  generally  free 
Dorothy  Perkins.  |  Mme.  Cusin. 

False  Rose  Mildew  (Peronospora  sparsa). — This,  some- 
times called  Black  Mildew,  is  fortunately  rare,  for  it  is  a 
very  fatal  disease,  particularly  to  young  stock.  When  an 
attack  occurs,  young  and  vigorous  leaves  suddenly  begin  to 
droop  and  fall  in  showers  if  the  branch  is  shaken.     The 


DISEASES  163 

shoots  become  limp  and  die  back.  The  fungus  will  be 
found  on  the  leaves  in  irregular  discoloured  patches  of  a 
browny-yellow  colour,  and  sometimes  on  the  back  of  the 
leaf  there  will  be  a  slight  whitish-coloured  down.  Under 
glass,  vaporising  with  sulphur  has  proved  effectual  to  get 
rid  of  the  disease,  so  probably  out  of  doors  spraying  with 
sulphide  of  potash  would  be  the  best  remedy.  Dr.  Lambert 
advises  Bordeaux  Mixture. 

Rose  Rust,  or  Orange  Fungus  (Phragmidium  subcor- 
ticatum). — This  is  a  widespread  disease,  but  it  is  seldom 
troublesome  until  late  summer  or  autumn. 

It  makes  its  appearance  in  the  form  of  deep,  orange- 
coloured,  powdery  patches,  as  a  rule  first  on  the  stems  and 
later  on  the  leaves,  the  latter  being  sometimes  covered  with 
them. 

In  the  autumn  the  winter  spores  are  produced  which, 
instead  of  being  orange-coloured,  appear  as  small  black 
points  scattered  over  the  under  surface  of  the  leaves.  These 
contain  the  winter  or  resting  spores,  which,  in  the  following 
spring,  if  they  encounter  a  suitable  medium,  infect  the  young 
wood  and  give  rise  to  the  fungus,  which  in  turn  produces 
in  due  time  the  orange-coloured  spores  of  summer.  The 
disease  is  particularly  common  on  Wild  Roses,  which 
are  often  a  cause  of  infection,  seedling  Briars  generally 
being  the  first  plants  in  the  garden  to  be  attacked  by  the 
disease. 

It  seems  next  to  impossible  to  stamp  out  this  fungus  on 
Briars,  but  on  garden  Roses  the  amateur  should  endeavour 
to  get  rid  of  it  as  far  as  possible,  or  at  least  to  keep  it  in 
check,  for  leaves  which  are  badly  infected  soon  fall,  and  the 
plant  is  thus  enfeebled  in  its  constitution. 


164     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

As  preventive  measures,  wherever  a  bad  attack  has 
occurred,  the  fallen  leaves  which  are  infected  should  be 
carefully  collected  and  burnt,  and  in  the  following  spring 
spraying  should  be  commenced  early  and  followed  up,  as  is 
advised  in  the  case  of  mildew.  Besides  this,  as  soon  as  the 
first  patches  of  orange  fungus  appear  on  the  stems  in  early 
summer  they  should  be  sought  for,  and  if  they  are  found 
on  a  part  that  can  be  readily  removed,  they  should  be  cut 
off  and  burnt ;  but  if,  as  often  happens,  they  occur  on  a 
part  which  cannot  be  removed  without  unduly  sacrificing 
the  plant  and  its  young  growth,  the  part  affected  should 
be  rubbed  over  with  a  tuft  of  cotton-wool  dipped  in  methy- 
lated spirit,  or  in  cupram,  which  latter  I  prefer. 

The  Roses  most  liable  to  infection  from  the  disease 
(apart  from  Briars)  are  the  H.P.'s,  especially  those  of  the 
Victor  Verdier  race,  and  some  of  the  H.T.'s,  the  Teas  as 
a  class  being  little  subject  to  it.  When  a  bed  of  H.P.'s  has 
been  badly  infected,  the  whole  bed  may  be  found  in  early 
September  almost  denuded  of  leaves  except  for  tufts  of  the 
young  foliage  at  the  top  of  the  shoots. 

Black  Spot  {Adinonema  rosce). — Black  spot,  like  orange 
fungus,  seldom  appears  till  after  midsummer.  It  is  found 
as  black  or  brownish  spots  on  the  surface  of  the  leaves, 
which  afterwards  fall  off,  if  the  attack  is  a  serious  one,  in 
large  numbers.  In  this  respect  it  seems  even  worse  than 
orange  fungus. 

The  fungus  in  the  infected  leaves  produces  spores  which 
carry  the  disease  to  neighbouring  plants,  and  in  a  large 
garden  it  is  sometimes  possible  from  the  condition  of  the 
Roses  to  trace  approximately  the  origin  of  the  infection. 
Wet  summers  seem  to  favour  the  spread    of  black  spot, 


PLATE   VIII 

JULIET   (HYBRID   BRIAR) 

The  plant  is  a  strong  grower,  and  should  make  a  good  hedge. 
The  flower  is  fragrant. 


DISEASES  167 

which  is  very  difficult  to  check.  Spraying  is  at  present  the 
only  remedy  beyond  the  careful  collection  and  destruction 
of  infected  leaves.  Mr.  Massee  advises  spraying  with 
potassium  permanganate  ;  ^  the  crystals  are  to  be  dissolved 
in  water  and  diluted  to  a  pale  red  colour.  Few  Roses  seem 
to  escape  this  disease.  I  have  had  Sweetbriars  badly  at- 
tacked. Maman  Cochet  and  its  sports  seem  rather  liable 
to  it,  and  the  Roses  recently  raised  by  M.  Pernet  Ducher 
from  Soleil  d'Or  parentage  have  proved  in  my  garden  very 
susceptible. 

Rose  Leaf  Scorch  {Septoria  rosce). — This  disease  is  con- 
fined to  the  leaves,  and  appears  first  as  yellowish  patches 
scattered,  changing  to  brown,  and  often  surrounded  by 
a  dark  line.  At  this  stage  it  is  not  unlike  an  early  attack 
of  black  spot.  Later  the  brown  patches  fall  out,  carrying 
with  them  the  spores  which  reproduce  the  disease.  This 
disease  also  causes  the  infected  leaves  to  fall  early,  even 
by  the  middle  of  July.  I  have  succeeded  in  checking  its 
spread  by  spraying  with  potassium  sulphide,  using  it  as 
strong  as  I  dared,  ^  and  sometimes  J  ounce  to  the  gallon, 
but  to  be  successful  the  treatment  must  begin  when  the 
disease  first  appears. 

Parasitic  Rose  Canker  {Coniothyrium  Fuckelii). — This 
is  a  new  and  dangerous  disease  of  Roses.  It  is  generally 
first  noticed  at  pruning  time,  two-year  or  older  wood  being 
found  with  cankered  and  swollen  patches,  the  bark,  especi- 
ally if  it  be  near  the  ground,  being  often  split,  and  some- 
times cracked  right  off  ;  lines  of  the  fungus  running  up  the 
stem  may  generally  be  seen  above  the  part  attached.  From 
the  frequency  with  which  this  disease  is  found  near  pruning 

1  About  five  grains  of  permanganate  to  a  gallon  of  water. 


i68     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

cuts,  I  infer  that  the  plant  is  infected  by  the  spores 
finding  entrance  where  the  bark  has  been  injured. 

It  appears  that  the  fungus  first  attacks  the  year-old 
wood  in  the  form  of  elongated  red  or,  as  I  have  generally 
noticed  them,  brownish-yellow  patches.  In  the  follow- 
ing winter  the  infected  parts  are  cracked  by  frost,  and 
the  plant  tries  to  heal  this  injury  by  the  formation  of 
callus,  which  perhaps  cracks  again,  hence  the  cankerous 
appearance. 

The  remedy  is  at  pruning  time  to  cut  off  and  burn  all 
affected  parts,  and  to  paint  any  pruning  cuts  or  injuries 
to  the  bark,  and  later  in  the  year  to  cover  the  red  or 
browny-yellow  patches  with  Stockholm  tar,  mixed  with 
creosote  or,  perhaps  better,  with  Cyllin. 

The  disease  seems  to  have  been  first  noticed  in 
Germany  in  1890,  but  the  cause  of  it  was  not  discovered 
till  fourteen  years  later.  In  my  own  garden  I  first  saw 
it  after  the  April  snows  and  frost  of  1908.  There  is 
a  very  elaborate  account  of  this  disease  in  the  RM.S. 
Journal  (1908),  vol.  xxxiv.  p.  229,  by  Dr.  Giissow. 

Rose  Root  Fungus  (Rcesleria  hypogced). — I  have  had 
a  certain  amount  of  trouble  with  this  fungus,  which  attacks 
the  roots  of  old  standards.  The  shoots  are  seen  to  be 
unhealthy  and  droop  and  die  back,  and  on  examining  the 
root  of  the  stock  below  ground  it  is  found  to  be  covered 
with  a  white  fungus.  What  seems  to  happen  is  that  part 
of  the  woody  stock  or  root  of  the  standard  dies  and  gets 
infected  with  the  fungus,  which  afterwards  affects  the 
living  part  of  the  plant. 

The  only  remedy  I  know  is  to  pull  up  the  tree  and 
burn  it  before  the  trouble  spreads  to  other  plants.     Down 


DISEASES  169 

to  the  present  I  have  not  found  it  on  dwarf  plants.  Mr. 
Massee  recommends  treating  the  ground  with  lime.  This 
disease  appears  to  be  identical  with  that  described  by  Dr. 
Lambert  as  "  La  France  disease,"  but  I  have  not  seen  it 
on  that  variety. 

Botrytis. — Dr.  Lambert  describes  two  diseases  caused 
by  the  Botrytis  fungus,  of  which  I  have  no  personal  ex- 
perience on  Roses.  The  first  appears  as  a  black  spot  at 
the  base  of  the  flower-stalk  when  fairly  developed,  increasing 
in  size  and  causing  the  stalk  to  wither  and  die.  He  suggests 
the  disease  may  be  influenced  by  conditions  of  weather  and 
soil,  which  latter  should  be  treated  with  lime. 

The  second,  Botrytis  cinerea,  is  fairly  well  known  as 
attacking  various  plants,  and  seems  only  capable  of  attacking 
living  tissue  when  the  cells  are  distended  with  excess  of 
moisture.  The  symptoms  of  the  disease  are  similar  to  the 
first,  except  that  they  appear  in  wet  weather,  and  the  flower 
bud  becomes  covered  with  a  greyish  mould. 

Sooty  Mould  (Fumago). — This  is  not  a  Rose  disease, 
though  it  sometimes  gives  trouble  on  Roses.  Where  there 
has  been  a  bad  attack  of  greenfly  and  the  pest  has  covered 
the  leaves  with  honey  dew,  this  fungus  grows  on  the  honey 
dew,  and  is  not  altogether  easy  to  remove.  The  means  of 
prevention  is  to  destroy  the  greenfly,  but  if  the  fungus  is 
established,  wash  the  leaves  with  Cyllin  soft  soap.  I  have 
only  found  it  really  troublesome  under  glass. 

Canker. — This  is  not  a  fungus  disease.  It  is  practically 
confined  to  budded  or  grafted  Roses,  and  occurs  as  a  swell- 
ing of  the  stem,  either  just  below,  or  more  often  just  above, 
the  junction  of  stock  and  scion.  This  leads  to  a  diseased 
condition,  and  ultimately  the  tissues  may  be  ruptured  and 


I/O     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

disease  result.  Mar^chal  Niel  is  the  greatest  offender  in 
this  respect,  so  much  so  indeed  that  I  have  seen  sHght 
cankerous  swelHngs  just  above  the  junction  of  year-old 
wood  with  that  of  a  year  previous.  Other  Roses,  however, 
produce  it  occasionally.  I  have  seen  it,  though  rarely,  on 
some  of  the  strong-growing  Teas  and  Crimson  Rambler. 
When  the  disease  is  established  I  know  of  no  cure. 


PESTS 

These  are,  in  a  sense,  less  dangerous  than  the  fungous 
diseases,  for  in  most  cases  the  injury  they  do  is  only  local, 
and  it  is  only  a  question  of  care  and  attention  to  prevent 
them  from  causing  harm.  They  are,  however,  sufficiently 
troublesome. 

Greenfly  or  Aphis  (Siphonophora). — Every  one  knows 
these  objectionable  pests.  In  spring  the  eggs  that  have 
been  laid  on  the  stems  and  buds  of  the  Roses  hatch  and 
produce  wingless  females.  These  mature  and  produce 
asexually  others  of  their  kind,  which  repeat  the  process  at  a 
great  rate,  till  the  whole  plant  may  be  covered.  They  stick 
their  beaks  into  the  leaves  and  soft  stems  of  the  Rose  and 
suck  the  sap.  In  addition  to  the  harm  they  do  in  this  way, 
they  produce  "  honey  dew,"  a  sticky  substance,  which  covers 
the  leaves  and  stops  the  pores,  in  which  "sooty  mould" 
may,  perhaps,  develop. 

Towards  autumn,  instead  of  wingless  females,  males  and 
winged  females  are  produced.  These  winged  females  are 
fertilised  by  the  males,  and  may  fly  off  to  other  trees  or 
to  other  plants,  and  lay  their  eggs,  tiny  spindle-shaped, 
shiny  black  things,  which  remain  on  the  stems  and  axils  of 


PESTS  171 

the  Roses.  Occasionally  winged  forms  are  found  in  the 
spring.  Greenfly  is  easily  kept  in  check  by  spraying  with 
Abol  or  Cyllin  soft  soap  (see  p.  161).  A  spray  containing 
soft  soap  and  quassia  is  also  very  good,  or  the  pest  may 
be  destroyed  by  the  finger  and  thumb.  The  great  point 
is  to  destroy  them  the  moment  they  appear,  before  they 
have  a  chance  of  increasing. 

Ladybirds,  Ichneumon  flies.  Horse-flies,  and  Lace-wing 
flies  all  prey  on  the  greenfly. 

Scale  Insects  {Coccidce)  are  seldom  troublesome  out 
of  doors,  though  sometimes  a  bad  attack  occurs  specially 
on  climbers  out  of  reach.  Under  glass  they  are  more 
common.  The  best  treatment  is  probably  washing  with 
soft  soap  and  quassia  or  Cyllin  soft  soap. 

Frog-hoppers  and  Cuckoo  Spit  (Philcenus  spumarius). 
— The  frothy  substance,  called  Cuckoo  Spit,  which  is 
found  on  the  flower-stalks  and  axils  of  the  leaves,  in  May 
and  June  conceals  a  yellowish  insect,  which  bites  into  the 
buds  and  bark  and  sucks  the  sap.  It  is  also  found  on  the 
hawthorn  and  other  plants.  In  July  and  August  the  insect 
develops  into  the  frog-hopper,  which  also  sucks  the  sap.  It 
is  well  known  for  its  jumping  powers.  There  are  several 
varieties,  varying  in  colour  from  yellow  to  dark  brown. 
Spraying  is  the  best  remedy,  but  hand-picking  may  be 
resorted  to  if  there  are  not  many  present. 

Beetles  (Coleoptera). — The  larvae  of  certain  beetles  live 
in  the  ground  and  eat  the  roots  of  Roses,  sometimes  killing 
them.  They  are  mostly  white  grubs  with  brown  or  blackish 
heads.  The  cockchafer  grubs  live  three  years  in  the  soil 
before  pupating,  the  summer  chafer  two  years,  and  the 
garden  chafer  and  rose  beetle  one  year  only.     The  remedy 


172     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

is  either  to  search  for  the  grubs  and  kill  them,  or  trap  them 
under  pieces  of  turf,  or  else  to  inject  carbon  bisulphide  into 
the  soil.  Mons.  Vermorel  has  introduced  an  injector  suit- 
able for  the  purpose.  The  well-known  beautiful  rose  beetle 
also  does  damage  to  the  flowers,  eating  the  anthers  and 
petals. 

Weevil  (Otiorhynchus). — This  little  creature  is  sometimes 
a  nuisance  to  those  who  bud  their  own  Roses.  It  is  a 
little  brown  beetle  which  feeds  by  night,  and  will  eat  the 
dormant  buds.  Raffia  or  "  Bass  "  is  no  protection  however 
carefully  it  is  tied,  and  if  the  buds  are  found  to  be  attacked, 
either  the  beetles  must  be  sought  for  and  destroyed  at  night, 
spreading  a  white  cloth  under  the  tree  to  catch  the  beetles 
as  they  fall,  or  the  buds  must  be  protected  with  grafting 
wax.  The  weevils  lay  their  eggs  in  the  soil,  and  these 
produce  larvae  which  are  white  with  brown  heads,  and  feed 
on  all  kinds  of  roots.     Vaporite  is  said  to  destroy  them. 

Lepidoptera — Moths  (Heterocera). — The  caterpillars  of 
several  moths  cause  endless  trouble  to  the  rosarian.  There 
is  no  real  cure  but  searching  for  them  and  destroying  them 
before  they  do  much  damage.  But  I  am  by  no  means 
certain  that  the  voracious  caterpillar  may  not  be  a  blessing 
in  disguise,  the  constant  quest  and  minute  attention  involved 
causing  us  to  note  many  things  in  the  habit  and  growth 
of  our  Roses  that  might  otherwise  escape  notice. 

The  caterpillars  of  the  winter  moth  (Cheimatobia 
hrumata)  are  the  first  to  appear,  and  almost  the  worst. 
They  hatch  out  at  the  beginning  of  April,  or  even  earlier, 
and  are  then  so  small  as  to  escape  notice.  At  first  a  dark 
grey  colour,  they  afterwards  become  green  with  paler  stripes. 
They  spin  the  Rose  leaves  together  and  eat  into  the  flower 


PESTS  173 

buds.  They  become  fully  grown  in  June,  fall  to  the  ground 
and  pupate.  There  they  remain  till  October,  when  they 
begin  to  hatch  out,  a  process  which  continues  till  the  new 
year.  The  males  have  wings,  but  the  females  are  wingless, 
and  when  hatched  crawl  up  the  stems  of  Roses  and  fruit- 
trees.  On  the  latter  they  are  often  caught  by  means  of 
grease  bands.  I  have  never  seen  this  preventive  method 
tried  on  Roses,  but  it  might  be  of  use  for  standards.  They 
not  only  infest  Roses,  but  orchard  and  forest  trees,  so  there 
is  no  hope  of  exterminating  them.  Constant  vigilance  is 
the  only  protection. 

Next  come  the  Rose  maggots,  nasty  fat  grubs,  green, 
yellow,  red,  and  brown,  belonging  to  various  species  of 
tortrices  which  are  all  small  moths.  They  eat  into  the  buds. 
Hand-picking  is  generally  the  remedy,  but  sprayings  with 
nicotine  wash  may  be  tried. 

Then  come  the  caterpillars  of  other  moths,  the  quaint 
brown  one  of  the  mottled  umber  moth,  and  the  fat  green 
one  of  the  beautiful  yellow  tail  moth  being  generally  most 
in  evidence,  but  there  are  in  my  collection  of  injurious 
moths  some  six  or  eight  others.  I  need  give  no  special 
directions — they  are  all  ravenous  caterpillars. 

The    following    is    a    list    of    the    moths    whose    larvae 
commonly  attack  Roses  : — 

Name.  Time  of  finding  Caterpillar. 
Brown    Tail    Moth   {Euproctus   chry- 

sorrhced) May- August. 

BufF  Tip  Moth  {Pyg<zra  bacephald)      .  Late  summer  and  autumn. 

Dagger  Moth  {Acronycta  pst)      .         .  August-October. 
Gold  Tail  Moth  (Yellow  Tail)  {For- 

thesia  auriflua)  ....  Autumn  and  spring. 


174     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

Name.  Time  of  finding  Caterpillar. 

Mottled  Umber  Moth  {Hybernia  de- 

foliana)      .....     May-June. 
Pale  Tussock  Moth  {Dasychira  pude- 

bunda) August-October. 

Found  in  clusters  when  young. 

Tortrices  (several  varieties)         .         .     May-June. 
Vapourer  Moth  {Orgyia  antiqua)        .     May  (?)-August. 
Eggs  laid  in  the  cocoon  from  which  the 
female  has  emerged. 

Winter  Moth  {Cheimatobia  brumata)  .     April-June. 

The  Sawflies  {Hymenoptera). — Of  the  numerous  insect 
enemies  of  the  Rose  there  is  none  more  varied  in  its 
form  of  attack  or  more  difficult  to  deal  with  effectually 
than  the  sawflies.  The  perfect  insects  are  quite  small,  the 
largest  scarcely  attain  the  size  of  an  ordinary  house-fly,  and 
many  are  a  good  deal  smaller.  The  larvae  of  several  kinds 
prey  upon  Roses,  and  I  can  only  mention  the  most  distinct. 

The  Leaf-rolling  Sawfly  {Blenocampa  pusilla). — This  is 
one  of  the  worst,  and  in  the  last  few  years  has  become  a 
great  nuisance.  It  seems  specially  partial  to  climbing 
Roses,  but  does  not  confine  itself  to  them,  no  Rose  being 
safe  from  attack. 

When  an  attack  occurs,  the  leaves  are  found  rolled 
inwards  on  the  midrib  from  both  sides  ;  they  are  seriously 
injured,  and  ultimately  die.  Many  who  do  not  know  the 
sawfly  and  its  ways  are  much  puzzled  by  this,  for  one  may 
often  unroll  a  dozen  or  more  leaves  before  finding  the  little 
green  larvae  inside. 

If,  however,  the  edges  of  the  leaves  are  carefully  examined 


PESTS  175 

with  a  glass,  the  white  egg  of  the  sawfly  may  often  be  found 
glued  to  the  edge  of  the  leaf  which  has  been  curled  inwards. 
Even  with  a  microscope,  however,  it  is  often  difficult  to 
find  either  egg  or  larva.  But  if  the  curled  leaves  are  col- 
lected and  put  into  a  tin,  dozens  of  sawflies  will  hatch  out 
at  the  beginning  of  September.  The  books  say  the  curling 
of  the  leaf  is  done  by  the  larva,  but  from  so  often  finding 
the  egg  on  the  edge  of  the  rolled  leaf,  I  think  this  is  not  so  ; 
what  happens  is  that  the  female  lays  its  eggs  on  the  edge 
and  then  saws  the  leaf  to  make  the  edge  curl  inwards  and 
protect  the  egg. 

The  attack  generally  begins  in  the  latter  half  of  May  and 
continues  through  June.  In  September  the  flies  hatch  out, 
and  I  think  there  must  be  another  generation  before  the 
autumn,  but  what  they  live  on  I  have  not  discovered.  A 
writer  in  the  Journal  des  Roses  says  sawflies  are  fond  of 
parsley.  However  this  may  be,  I  notice  the  attack  is 
usually  confined  to  particular  parts  of  the  garden,  from 
which  I  infer  they  do  not  travel  far.  The  only  remedy  I 
have  tried  is  picking  ofi^  and  burning  the  leaves.  Spraying 
of  course  is  useless,  but  possibly  removing  and  burning  the 
top  soil  in  early  spring  might  be  effectual. 

The  Rose-shoot-boring:  Sawfiy  {PcBclosoma  candidatum). 
— This  is  a  most  exasperating  insect.  The  female  lays  her 
eggs  in  the  tips  of  the  shoots,  generally  selecting  the  tallest 
and  best.  The  grub  hatching  from  the  tgg  immediately 
proceeds  to  bore  its  way  down  the  pith.  I  have  never  been 
able  to  catch  the  grub  before  the  harm  is  done.  The  first 
indication  is  a  speck  or  two  of  blackish  dust  at  the  top  of 
the  shoot,  later  the  leaves  flag,  and  the  marauder  will  be 
found  as  a  fat  white   maggot   i   or  even   2  inches  down 


176     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

the  centre  of  the  shoot.  There  is  no  remedy — the  flower 
is  gone — but  you  may  take  revenge,  and  so  help  to  prevent 
the  increase  of  the  race.  The  grubs  are  found  in  June  and 
early  July. 

Another  sawfly  whose  larvae  lives  inside  the  branches  of 
the  Rose  is  known  as  Cephus  phtisicus.  The  grub  is  white, 
with  a  horny,  strongly  built  head. 

The  Rose  Emphytus  {Emphytus  ductus). — The  larvae  of 
this  sawfly  are  in  my  garden  almost  as  troublesome  as  those 
of  the  winter  moth.  They  appear  later  than  these  latter, 
and  are  active  little  green  caterpillars  with  black  heads. 

Mr.  Massee  and  Dr.  Schwartz  both  state  that  these  are  the 
same  sawflies  whose  larvae  eat  into  the  pith  of  the  mature 
wood  and  are  found  at  pruning  time,  having  eaten  down 
the  pith  of  the  wood  which  they  enter  at  a  pruning  cut. 
They  are  usually  found  comfortably  ensconced  from  i  to  2 
mches  down  the  stem,  but  I  have  found  them  as  far  down 
as  6  inches  or  more,  and  they  have  an  ingenious  habit  of 
replacing  the  pith  behind  them.  Two  kinds  are  found  in 
the  spring  in  this  way  ;  one  is  white  and  rather  small,  the 
other  a  dark  green,  and  larger.  If  these  are  the  same 
sawfly  as  the  Rose  Emphytus,  then  there  must,  I  think,  be 
two  generations  in  the  year,  for  if  the  Emphytus  larvae  be 
collected  and  fed  in  captivity,  they  will  pupate  and  hatch 
out  sawflies  in  the  course  of  the  summer. 

I  notice  the  chrysalides  produced  in  the  summer  by  these 
Emphytus  larvae  are  of  two  kinds,  one  a  shiny  black,  and 
the  other  a  light  chestnut-brown  colour.  Possibly  these  in 
the  second  generation  become  the  white  and  the  dark  green 
larvae  respectively  found  in  the  pith  of  the  mature  wood  at 
pruning  time.     Cameron  mentions  at  least  four  varieties  of 


PESTS  177 

Emphytus  which  prey  on  the  Rose.  E.  rugocinchis  does 
not  enter  the  pith,  but  pupates  in  the  ground.  As  some 
protection  against  these  larvae  in  their  wood-boring  stage 
when  I  find  them  numerous,  after  pruning  I  smear  the  cut 
surface  with  ordinary  white  lead  paint,  and  this  seems 
effectual,  as  I  have  seldom  found  them  to  enter  a  shoot  that 
has  been  painted.  I  hope  the  painting  may  also  to  some 
extent  help  to  check  infection  from  the  Coniothyrium 
fungus. 

There  is  another  curious  sawfly  (Pamphilius  inaniius) 
whose  larvae,  aided  by  the  incisions  in  the  leaf  made  by 
the  female  parent  when  laying  her  eggs,  makes  for  himself 
a  little  house  out  of  the  rolled  down  leaves  of  the  Rose. 
When  he  wishes  to  move,  he  does  so  by  means  of  his  fore- 
legs, leaving  his  tail  end  in  the  house,  which  he  thus  takes 
with  him.  The  larvae  feeds  on  the  Rose  leaves,  and  is 
sometimes  very  destructive,  but  lives  chiefly  on  Wild 
Roses.  This  sawfly  is  said  to  be  fairly  common,  but  on 
garden  Roses  I  have  only  found  it  on  Reine  Olga  de 
Wurtemberg.  The  larvae  are  found  in  June  and  July  ;  they 
pupate  in  the  earth,  and  the  flies  appear  in  May. 

The  Rose  Slugworm  {Eriocampa  rosce). — The  larvae  of 
this  sawfly,  unlike  the  Emphytus,  which  eats  the  whole  leaf, 
only  consume  the  upper  surface,  or  sometimes  the  under 
surface  only.  Whichever  way  it  works,  it  destroys  the  leaf. 
It  is  yellowish-green  with  an  orange-coloured  head  ;  and 
two  broods  are  produced  in  the  year,  one  in  June,  the  other 
in  August  or  later.  It  is  killed  by  spraying  with  nicotine, 
and  either  killed  or  checked  by  Abol  and  Cyllin. 

Rhodites. — Another  group  of  sawflies,  the  Rhodites, 
causes  the  well-known  galls  common  chiefly  on  Briar  Roses, 

M 


178     PRESENT-DAY   GARDENING 

but  occasionally  found  on  garden  Roses.  There  are  three 
distinct  types.  The  formation  of  the  gall  seems  to  be 
caused  in  part  by  the  sawfly  laying  its  eggs  in  the  cambium 
layer,  forming  a  protection  for  the  egg  until  it  hatches,  and 
in  part  by  the  action  of  the  larvae  when  hatched. 

Rhodites  rosce  forms  the  well  known  and  often  very 
beautiful  pincushion  galls  or  "  bedeguars "  on  the  Dog 
Rose.  They  are  said  to  originate  from  three  leaflets,  and 
the  process  of  oviposition  by  the  female  sawfly  is  long  and 
laborious. 

Rhodites  eglanterice  produces  a  very  different  gall.  This 
is  pea-shaped,  about  ^  inch  in  diameter,  smooth  and  green, 
or  with  reddish  cheeks.  It  is  found  either  on  the  upper  or 
under  side  of  the  leaf,  or  sometimes  on  the  leaf-stalk.  The 
galls  are  readily  detached,  and  when  ripe  they  fall  to  the 
ground  and  the  insect  emerges  in  the  following  spring. 
Common  on  the  Wild  Rose,  it  has  also  been  found  on  the 
Sweetbriar  and  the  Moss  Rose. 

Rhodites  spinosissimce  also  produces  roundish  galls,  which 
may  be  green  or  dull  or  bright  red.  They  usually  have 
more  than  one  cell,  and  differ  from  the  last  named  in  always 
forming  part  of  the  plant.  They  are  also  rather  less  regular. 
They  are  said  only  to  be  found  on  the  Burnet  Rose. 

Rhodites  nervosus  forms  a  gall  attached  by  a  narrow 
point  to  the  underside  of  the  leaf  vein,  and  bearing  four  or 
five  pointed  spines. 

These  gall-making  flies  seldom  do  any  great  damage  in 
the  garden,  but  should  they  occur  in  sufficient  numbers 
they  might  become  a  nuisance.  The  remedy  would  then 
be  to  pick  off  the  galls  and  burn  them. 

Thrips  (Thysanoptera  or  Physopoda)  are  chiefly  harmful 


PESTS  179 

under  glass,  but  in  dry  summers  they  will  occasionally  be 
troublesome  to  the  exhibitor,  spoiling  the  petals  of  his 
Roses,  especially  Teas.  The  remedy  is  copious  syringing, 
but  this  is  as  bad  as  the  pest.  Thrips  are  very  small 
black  and  winged  insects.  Before  19 11,  during  which 
year  thrips  were  very  numerous  and  did  much  damage 
to  Rose  blossoms,  I  only  remember  one  year  in  which 
my  Roses  were  seriously  affected  by  this  pest. 

Red  Spider  (Tetranychus  telarins)  is  only  found  under 
glass.  The  remedy  is  found  in  copious  syringings  with 
water. 


CHAPTER   XXIX 

CALENDAR   OF   OPERATIONS   FOR    EACH 
MONTH    IN   THE   YEAR 

In  the  days  of  Dean  Hole  it  was  thought  that  the  month  of 
September  gave  the  rosarian  little  to  do,  and  even  Foster- 
Melliar  held  that  the  hard-worked  rosarian  might  take  his 
holiday  in  September.  I  can  give  him  no  hope  nowadays 
of  a  cessation  of  work  in  the  Rose  garden  even  in  that 
month.  There  is,  in  fact,  ample  work  to  occupy  his  time 
and  attention  during  the  whole  year,  and  his  holiday  he  must 
snatch  when  he  can  or  when  his  business  will  allow  him. 

October. — The  preparation  of  new  Rose  beds  which 
should  have  been  commenced  in  September  ought  to  be 
completed  by  the  middle  of  this  month,  except  those 
mtended  for  the  reception  of  stocks  for  budding. 

The  ordering  of  new  Roses  from  the  nurserymen 
should  be  taken  in  hand  and  completed  during  the  first 
week.  If  it  has  been  done  earlier,  so  much  the  better. 
Attend  to  the  removal  of  leaves  as  they  fall  from  all  plants 
affected  by  fungous  diseases. 

The  end  of  the  month  is  the  best  time  for  taking 
cuttings  of  Roses  in  the  open,  especially  of  Ramblers  and 
Wichuraiana  Roses.  Make  Briar  cuttings  for  stocks.  Pre- 
pare a  good  heap  of  mixed  manure  for  dressing  the  beds  in 
spring.     Do  not  use  this  in  autumn. 


CALENDAR   OF   OPERATIONS      i8i 

November — The  last  week  in  October  and  the  first 
half  of  November  is  the  best  time  for  planting  and  trans- 
planting Roses.  Be  careful  to  remove  all  foliage  before 
planting.  A  partial  clearing  up  of  the  wild  growth  on 
budded  stocks  may  be  made,  leaving  the  branches  where 
buds  have  taken.  Fresh  standard  stocks  may  be  got  in 
and  planted.  Proceed  with  the  pruning  of  Ramblers  and 
Wichuraianas  when  time  allows.  Carefully  collect  and 
burn  fallen  leaves  from  diseased  plants. 

Pot  up  Roses  intended  to  be  grown  under  glass.  These 
must  not  be  forced  early.  Towards  the  end  of  the  month 
bring  indoors  the  first  batch  of  Roses  established  in  pots. 

December Planting  should  be  finished  by   the   first 

week  of  this  month.  Towards  Christmas  begin  earthing 
up  the  Teas,  Chinas,  and  other  tender  Roses.  The  time  for 
this  will  depend  on  the  weather  and  the  ripeness  of  the 
wood.  It  is  little  use  earthing-up  sappy  shoots.  See  that 
the  surface  of  the  beds  is  "  turned  up  rough." 

January. — With  the  commencement  of  the  new  year 
bring  in  the  main  batch  of  Roses  in  pots.  The  sides  of 
beds  in  the  neighbourhood  of  big  trees  may  be  searched  for 
invading  roots.  See  to  staking  and  tying.  By  the  end  of 
this  month  the  pruning  and  training  of  rambling  and 
Wichuraiana  Roses  should  be  completed.  Prepare  beds 
for  planting  Dwarf  Briar  stocks. 

February — Examine  the  heap  of  manure,  and  give  it 
a  turn  over  if  it  has  not  nicely  mellowed.  Take  advan- 
tage of  open  weather  to  get  the  dwarf  stocks  planted  that 
are  to  be  budded  in  the  summer.  Head  down  dwarf  stocks 
that  have  been  budded,  and  shorten  the  budded  standards 
to  two  eyes  beyond  the  buds.     Examine  cuttings,  and  push 


i82     PRESENT-DAY   GARDENING 

back  and  make  firm  those  lifted  by  the  frost.  If  Tonk 
or  artificial  manure  is  to  be  given,  apply  it  about  the  middle 
of  the  month,  at  which  time  the  digging  in  of  a  dressing 
of  manure  from  the  heap  may  be  begun. 

Prune  Rugosa  Roses,  and  at  the  end  of  the  month  the 
H.P.'s.  Train  Roses  on  walls.  The  last  batch  of  Roses 
in  pots  may  be  brought  indoors  this  month. 

March. — This  is  the  month  for  pruning.  First  finish  the 
H.P.'s,  then  go  on  with  the  H.T.'s  and  Chinas.  At  the 
end  of  the  month  remove  the  earth  from  Tea  Roses.  Try 
to  get  the  manuring  finished.  Remove  the  surface  earth 
round  standards,  and  cut  off  incipient  suckers.  Get  the 
stakes  put  in  position  for  the  maiden  plants.  Indoors  paint 
a  little  lime  and  sulphur  wash  over  the  pipes  to  check 
mildew. 

April. — Prune  the  Tea  Roses,  and  try  to  get  the  pruning 
finished  soon  after  the  middle  of  the  month.  Begin  the 
summer  hoeing.  A  "buco"  is  a  good  tool  for  a  start. 
Watch  for  caterpillars,  rose  grubs,  and  greenfly,  also  for 
suckers.     Tie  maidens  as  they  start  growth. 

May. — This  is  the  month  of  pests.  Watch  for  them 
ceaselessly.  Begin  syringing  with  Abol  or  Cyllin  by  the 
second  week.  Continue  tying  maiden  growths,  and 
shorten  the  growth  from  wild  eyes  left  beyond  the  buds 
on  standards  as  soon  as  the  shoots  are  well  away.  Begin 
to  apply  liquid  manure,  especially  after  rain.  If  artificial 
manure  is  used,  a  dressing  may  be  given  in  the  middle 
of  the  month.  Rub  out  eyes  of  Teas  where  too  crowded. 
Hoe  continually.  Harden  off  plants  in  pots  that  have 
flowered. 

June.— Continue  (i.)  watching  for  pests,  (ii.)  syringing, 


CALENDAR   OF   OPERATIONS      183 

(iii.)  hoeing,  (iv.)  applying  liquid  manure  at  intervals,  (v.) 
tying  up  maiden  growths.  Thin  out  superfluous  buds.  By 
the  beginning  of  the  month  Roses  will  begin  to  come  into 
flower.  Note  the  time  of  flowering  of  different  varieties, 
also  the  time  the  buds  take  to  expand.  The  Rose  Shows 
begin  in  the  South  the  last  week  of  this  month.  Have  your 
shades  ready  at  hand  when  wanted,  also  your  boxes  if  you 
exhibit.  Pot  Roses  should  be  plunged  in  coal  ashes  out 
of  doors. 

July. — The  first  half  of  this  month  is  the  time  of  Rose 
Shows.  Note  down  in  writing  your  experience  of  different 
varieties  in  your  garden.  Cut  all  flowers  as  soon  as  they 
fade.  Some  recommend  another  top  dressing  of  manure 
as  soon  as  the  first  bloom  is  over,  others  a  summer  mulch. 
If  either  is  employed,  this  is  the  time  to  apply  it.  I  hold 
both  to  be  unnecessary  and  undesirable.  Continue  syring- 
ing and  hoeing.  Watch  for  mildew,  rust,  and  black  spot. 
Remove  and  burn  all  leaves  affected  by  the  two  last-named 
diseases.  Begin  budding  as  soon  as  the  Shows  are  over. 
Bud  standard  stocks  first,  because  the  sap  ceases  to  run  with 
them  earlier  than  with  dwarf  stocks.  Give  liquid  manure 
to  Roses  in  pots. 

August.— Finish  budding  this  month.  At  the  end  of 
the  month  look  over  budded  stocks  and  re-bud  those  that 
have  failed  to  take.  Continue  to  syringe,  hoe,  and  watch 
for  pests  and  fungous  diseases.  Collect  and  burn  diseased 
leaves.  During  this  month  the  work  of  pruning  rambling 
Roses  may  be  begun.  Begin  with  those  early  flowering 
varieties  that  do  not  flower  a  second  time  in  the  season. 

September. — Continue  to  hoe  and  watch  for  pests  and 
diseases.     Collect  and  burn    leaves   affected  with   fungus. 


i84     PRESENT-DAY    GARDENING 

Continue  to  prune  Ramblers,  Wichuraianas,  and  Pillar  Roses. 
Tidy  up  and  tie  in  Roses  grown  on  walls  and  as  hedges. 
Budding  may  often  be  practised  until  the  middle  of  the 
month  or  later,  but  it  is  risky,  and  only  worth  doing  where 
a  bud  has  failed.  Towards  the  end  of  the  month  a  little 
protection  improvised  for  the  China  Roses  and  their  near 
allies  will  be  well  repaid.  Complete  your  plans  for  the 
"Autumn  Manoeuvres."     Then  begin  again. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 

Purely  scientific  and  foreign  works,  unless  specifically  referred 
to  in  this  book,  are  omitted. 


A.  H.  B.     The  Tree  Rose.     1845. 

H.  C.  Andrews.     Monograph  on  the  Genus  Rosa.     I787> 

Anon.     Roses  and  How  to  Grow  them.     1906. 

J.  G.  Baker.     Monograph  of  British  Roses,     wfo.  Linn.  Soc.  197- 

1877. 

Robert  Buist.     The  Rose  Annual,     date  ? 

E.  T.  Cook.     Rose  Growing  made  Easy. 

Henry  Curtis.     Beauties  of  the  Rose.     2  vols.     1853. 

Rev.  H.  d'Ombrain.     The  Rosarian's  Year  Book.     1878-18S1. 

G.  J.  Duncan.     Rose  Growing.     1887. 

Louis  Durand.     The  Book  of  Roses.     1911. 

H.  B.  Ellwanger.     The  Rose.     1882. 

Rev.  O.  Fisher.     The  Art  of  Growing  Roses  Out-of-doors.     1872. 

Rev.  A.  Foster-Melliar.     The  Book  of  the  Rose.     1894.     New  edition, 
edited  by  Rev.  F.  Page  Roberts  and  H.  E.  Molyneux.     1910. 

—  Glenny.     Cultivation  of  Roses. 

Miss  Gore.     The  Rose  Fanciers'  Manual. 

Dr.  Julius  Hoffman.     The  Amateur  Gardener's  Rose  Book.     Trans- 
lated by  John  Weathers.     1905. 

Rev.  S.   R.   Hole  (afterwards  Dean  Hole).     A  Book  about  Roses. 
6th  edition,  1878.     Latest  edition,  1901. 

H.  Jamain  and  E.  Fornez.     Les  Roses.     1873. 

G.  Jekyl  and  E.  Mawley.     Roses  for  English  Gardens.     1902. 

Journal  des  Roses  (Cochet).     Periodical. 

Rose  G.  Kingsley.     Roses  and  Rose  Growing.     1908. 

Miss  Mary  Lawrence.     A  Collection  of  Roses  from  Nature.     1780- 
1810. 

John  Lindley.     Monograph  on  Roses.     1820. 
18s 


i86  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

George  Massie.     Diseases  of  Cultivated  Plants  and  Trees,     igio. 

H.  Millman.     My  Roses  and  How  I  Grow  them.     1899. 

National  Rose  Society.  Catalogue.  Last  edition,  19 10. — Enemies  of 
the  Rose.  Last  edition,  1910, — Handbook  on  Pruning  Roses. 
Last  edition,  1909. — Rose  Annual,  1907-1911. 

Th.  Nietner.     Die  Rose.     1880. 

Francis  Packman.     The  Book  of  Roses. 

John  Parkinson.     The  Rose  Tree  or  Bush  {Paradisi  in  Soli).     1629. 

S.  B.  Parsons.  The  Rose,  its  History,  Poetry,  Culture,  and  Classifica- 
tion.    1847. 

William  Paul.     Observations  on  the  Cultivation  of  Roses  in  Pots. 

William  Paul.     The  Rose  Garden.     9th  edition,  1888. 

William  Paul.     The  Rose  Annual.      1860-1881. 

Rev.  Joseph  Pemberton.  Roses,  their  History,  Development,  and 
Cultivation.     1908. 

W.  R.  Prince.     Manual  of  Roses. 

P.  J.  Redoute  et  C.  A.  Thory.     Les  Roses.     1817. 

E.  Regel.     Tentarum  Rosarum  Monographia.     1877. 

Thomas  Rivers.     Rose  Amateur's  Guide,     nth  edition,  1877. 

T.  W.  Sandars.     Roses  and  their  Cultivation.     1908. 

Shirley  Hibberd.     The  Rose  Book.     1864. 

Andre  Theuriet.     Le  Roses  Cultiv^es  ^  I'Hay.     1902. 

R.  W.  Thompson.     The  Amateur's  Rosarium.     1862. 

J.  Weathers.     Beautiful  Roses  for  Garden  and  Greenhouse.     1903. 

Ellen  Willmott.     The  Genus  Rosa.     1910. 

Major  A.  H.  Wolley-Dod.  Subsection  En  Caninae  of  Genus  Rosa. 
1908. 

Major  A.  H.  Wolley-Dod.     The  British  Roses.     1910. 

Joseph  Wood.     Synopsis  of  British  Species  of  Roses.     1816. 


GENERAL    INDEX 


Abol,  i6i 
Aphis,  170 

Barr's  Daffodil  hoe,  24 

Beds  and  borders,  size  and  shape,  13 

preparation  of,  14,  17-19 

depth  of,  17 

remaking,  19 
Beetles,  171 
Black  Spot,  164 
Botrytis  diseases,  169 
Briar  cuttings,  66 

seedlings,  65 
Bud  cuttings,  75 
Budding,  65-72 

apparatus  for,  66 

Calendar  of  operations,  180 

Cuckoo  Spit,  171 

"  Cut  backs,"  77 

Cuttings,  73 

Cyllin  wash  for  syringing,  161 

Decorative  Roses,  exhibiting,  83-85 
De  la  Grifferse  stocks,  64 
Disbudding  for  exhibition,  80 
Diseases  and  pests,  159 
Division,  propagation  by,  76 
Drainage,  14 
Dwarf  stocks,  65 

Emphytus,  176 

Evaporation,  effect  of,  on  heavy  soils, 

II 
Exhibiting,  77 
Exhibition  boxes,  82 

cutting  Roses  for,  82 

decorative  Roses  for,  83 

tubes,  82 
Exposure,  9 


Firm  planting,  17,  79 
Fragrance  in  Roses,  135 
Frog-hoppers,  171 
Frost,  9 

Garden,  Roses  in  the,  i,  5 
Greenfly,  170 
Grafting,  72 

Hoeing,  60 

Layering,  75 

Maiden  plants,  JJ 

Manures,  52 

Manures  from  yard  and  stable,  $2-53 

liquid,  53,  58 

artificial,  54 
Manuring  poor  soils,  19 

for  exhibition,  79 
Mildew,  159 

false,  162 
Moisture,  value  of  humus  in  retention 

of,  14 
Moths,  injurious,  1 72 
Mulching,  58 

Orange  fungus,  163 

Parasitic  Rose  canker,  167 

Pergolas,  7 

Pests,  170 

Planting  and  transplanting,  21 

necessity  for  firm,  1 7,  79 

time  for,  21,22 
Propagation,  61 
Protection  from  wind,  10 
Pruning,  23 

bush  Roses,  summer-flowering,  34 

directions  for,  28 


GENERAL    INDEX 


Pruning — 

for  exhibition,  79 

implements,  23-26 

object  of,  27 

species  requiring  special  treatment,  5$ 

China  Roses,  47 

Hybrid  Perpetuals,  37 

Hybrid  Teas,  39 

Rugosas,  35 

Tea  Roses,  48 
Sweetbriars,  30 
the  Noisettes,  32 
the  Ramblers,  29 
Wichuraianas,  3 1 

Red  Spider,  179 
Rhodites,  177 
Rosa  laxa  for  stocks,  65 
Rose  leaf  scorch,  167 
Rose  shows,  2 
Rose  species,  144 
Rose  root  fungus,  168 
Roses — 

American  method  of  growing,  157 

British,  150 

decorative  for  exhibition,  lOl 
preparation  of,  83 

for  bedding,  112 

for  big  bushes  or  specimen  plants, 
120 

for  decoration  of  the  garden,  103 

for  exhibition,  H.P.'s  and  H.T.'s,  86 
Teas,  96 

for  pillars,  114 

for  rock  gardens,  118 

for  small  gardens,  133 

for  walls,  120 

fragrance  in,  135 

in  pots,  154 

planted  out  under  glass,  158 

the  China,  122 


Roses — 

the  Multiflora,  1 29 

the  Polyantha  Pompon,  124 

the  Rambling,  127 

the  Rugosa,  131 

the  Sweetbriar,  121 

the  Wichuraiana,  129 

under  glass,  154 
Rust  or  orange  fungus,  163 

Sawflies,  174 

Saws,  25 

Scale  insects,  171 

Secateurs,  25-26 

Shading  for  exhibition,  8 1 

decorative  Roses  for  exhibition,  84 
Situation  of  the  Rose  garden,  9 
Slugworm,  177 
Small  garden,  Roses  in,  5,  6 

Roses  for,  133 
Soils,  II 

general  directions  for  treatment  of, 

19 

value   of   working    to    secure    good 
physical  condition,  20 
Sooty  mould,  169 
Stocks,  62 

dwarf,  63 

preparing  the,  65 

standard,  64 
Suckers,  propagation  by,  76 
Sulphide  of  potash,  161 
Summer  treatment,  58 

thinning,  59 

Thinning  shoots  of  exhibition  Roses, 
79-80 
Roses  in  summer,  59 
Tying  Roses  for  exhibition,  8 1 

Weevils,  172 


INDEX    OF    ROSES    MENTIONED 
IN    THIS    BOOK 


Aenchen  MiJLLER,  loi,  124, 125, 162 

Aglaia,  129 

agrestis,  152 

Aimee  Vibert,  32,  33,  114,  130,  13^+ 

A.  K.  Williams,  87,  91,  134,  137 

Alba,  34,  141 

Alberic  Barbier,  31,  129,  133,  142 

Alberti,  118 

Alice  Hamilton,  123 

Alice  Lindsell,  87,  92 

Alister  Stella  Gray,  53,  114,  134 

Alpina,  142,  148 

Altaica,  76,  1 19,  I20,  I42,  148,  151 

Amadis,  29 

Amber,  126 

American  Pillar,  loi,  129,  133 

Amy  Robsart,  121 

andersoni,  149 

Anna  Maria  de  Montravel,   119,  124, 

125,  141 
Anna  Olivier,  lOO 
Antoine  Rivoire,  103 
Ards  Rambler,  114,  120 
Aids  Rover,  114 
Arethusa,  123 
Arvensis,  144,  150 
Aschenbrbdel,  125 
Atropurpurea,  132 
Auguste  Comte,  103 
Augustine  Guinoisseau,  43,   112,   137, 

142 
Austrian  Briar,  5,  40,  87 
Avoca,  95 

Banksian,  120 
Baroness  Rothschild,  136 
beggeriana,  147 


189 


berberidifolia,  145 

Bessie  Brown,  5,  40,  87 

Bettel-Student,  126 

Betty,  102,  103,  137 

Betty  Berkeley,  51 

bifera,  145 

Billard  et  Barre,  51,  1 14 

Blanc  Double  de  Coubert,  35,  131,  142 

blanda,  148 

Blush  Rambler,  29,  74,  loi,  129,  134 

Boule  de  Neige,  36 

Bridesmaid,  5,  96,  99,  13S,  157,   15S 

Brunonis,  145 

Burgurdica,  118 

Burnet  Rose,  118,  151 

Cai-ocarpa,  35 

Camoens,  112 

Canarienvogel,  125 

Canina,  144,  148,  150,  151 

Captain  Hayward,  87,  95,  103,  134 

Carmen,  132 

Carmine  Pillar,  39,  114 

Caroline  Testout,  39,  45,  87,  89,  103, 

134, 158 
Caroline  Testout  (climbing),  114,  120, 

134 
Catherine  Mermet,  96,  99,  138 
Catherine  Seton,  121 
Cecile  Brunner,  124,  125,  141 
Celine  Foiestier,  114 
Charles  J.  Grahame,  95 
Charles  Lefebvre,  37,  1 10,  137 
Charlotte  Klemm,  123,  134,  141 
Chateau  de  Clos  Vougeot,  137 
Cheshunt  Scarlet,  103,  112 
Chin  Chin,  123 


90 


INDEX    OF    ROSES 


Christian  Curie,  129 

cinnamomece,  146 

clynophylla,  14b 

Commandant    Felix    Faure,    95,    103, 

I34>  137 
Common  Pink  China,  47,  123,  134,  141 
Comte  de  Raimbaud,  95,  110 
Comtesse  de  Nadaillac,  96,  98 
Comtesse  du  Cayla,  123,  141 
Conrad  F.    Meyer,  32,   35,    120,   131, 

132,  142,  162 
Coquina,  130 
Corallina,  102,  1 13 
coriifolia,  15 1 
Cramoisie  Superieure,  123 
Crimson  Damask,  34,  loi 
Crimson    Rambler,  24,   74,   loi,   129, 

134,  136,  144,  162 

Damascena,  145 

Daniel  Leseuer,  36,  132 

Dean  Hole,  87,  88,  134 

Debutante,  129,  142 

Delicata,  35,  132,  142 

De  Meaux,  118,  135 

Devoniensis,  138 

Diabolo,  32,  129 

Dorothy  i3ennison,  129 

Dorothy  Page  Roberts,  103 

Dorothy  Perkins,  I,  lO,  129,  130,  133, 

144,  162 
Dr.  J.  Campbell  Hall,  40,  43,  112 
Ducher,  123 
Duchess  of  Bedford,  ill 
Duchess  of  Wellington,  43,  112 
Duke  of  Edinburgh,  37,  iii,  141 
Duke  of  Teck,  iii 
Duke  of  Wellington,  ill 
dumetorum,  151 
Dundee  Rambler,  7,  29,  130 
Dupuy  Jamain,  iii,  137 

Ec^,  118 

Ecarlate,  40,  112 

Edu  Meyer,  104 

eglanteria,  152 

Elegans,  30 

elliptica,  152 

Etienne  Levet,  III,  137 

Etoile  de  France,  155 

Eugenie  Lamesch,  119,  124,  125,  141 


Fabvier,  47,  123 

fedschenkoana,  147 

Felicite  et  Perpetue,  7,  29,  130,  144 

fendleri,  147 

Ferox,  118,  149 

Fimbriata,  132 

Fisher  Holmes,  III 

Flora  M'lvor,  121 

Florence  Pemberton,  87,  90 

Flower  of  Fairfield,  128 

Foliolosa,  118,  147 

Fortune's  Yellow,  33 

Franjois  Crousse,  46,  114,  120 

Fran9ois  Foucard,  31 

Fran9ois  Juranville,  129,  136,  142 

Frau  Ernst  Borsig,  112 

Frau  Karl  Druschki,  87,  88,  104,  134, 

136,  157,  162 
Frau  Karl  Druschki  (climbing),  114 

Gallica,  145,  148,  149 

Gallica  pumila,  118 

Gardenia,  31,  129 

General  Jacqueminot,  III,  137,  157 

General  MacArthur,  104,  137 

Georges  Schwartz,  155 

Gerbe  Rose,  32,  129,  142 

Gladys  Harkness,  40,  137 

Glauca,  151 

Gloire  de  Dijon,  51,  120 

Gloire  des  Rosomanes,  1 14 

Goldfinch,  129 

Goubault,  120,  138 

Gracilis,  30 

Grand  Due  A.  de  Luxembourg,  162 

Grandiflora,  148 

Griiss  an  Teplitz,  5,  39,  46,  84,  loi, 

104,  114,  120,  134,  137 
Griiss  an  2Sabern,  127,  129 
Gustav  Griinerwald,  104,  134,  137 
Gustave  Piganeau,  87,  92 
Gustave  Regis,  S,  39,  46,  loi,  104,  134 

Harry  Kirk,  49,  51,  105 
Helen  Keller,  87,  95 
Helene,  loi 
hemisphterica,  147 
Her  Majesty,  162 
Hermosa,  36 

Hiawatha,  i,  74,  127,  129,  133 
hibernica,  153 


INDEX    OF    ROSES 


Hispida,  76,  121,  148 

Hon.  Edith  Gifford,  113 

Horace  Vernet,  80,  87,  92,  1 37 

Hugh  Dickson,  37,  87,  90,  105,  134, 137 

Hugonis,  119 

Humilis,  118,  147 

Iceberg, 32,  126 

Indica,  145,  148 

Indica  Miss  Willmott,  119,  148 

Indica  semperflorens,  142,  148 

Inermis  Morletii,  30,  130 

Innocence,  138 

Innocenta  Pirola,  96,  99,  105 

invohUa,  153 

Irish  Elegance,  40,  loi,  102,  105 

Irish  Glory,  105 

Janet's  Pride,  120 

J.  B.  Clarke,  87,  89,  105 

Jeannie  Deans,  121 

Jersey  Beauty,  31,  lOl,  129 

Jessie,  119,  125 

Johanna  Sebus,  137 

John  Ruskin,  40,  137 

Joseph  Hill,  40,  44,  105,  134 

Joseph  Lamy,  129 

Julia  Mannering,  121 

Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria,  87,  91 
Katharine  Zeimet,  125 
Killarney,  95,  105,  157,  162 
Kleiner  Alfred,  125 
Koenigin  Carola,  105 

Lady  Alice  Stanley,  137 

Lady  Ashtown,  5,  43,  87,  90,  112,  113, 

134,  162 
Lady  Battersea,  lOl 
Lady  Curzon,  34,  loi,  120,  162 
Lady  Faire,  157 
Lady  Gay,  31,  130 
Lady  Godiva,  31,  129 
Lady  Moira  Beauclerc,  95 
Lady  Penzance,  121 
Lady  Quartus  Ewart,  1 13 
Lady  Roberts,  100,  106,  138 
Lady  Violet  Henderson,  124 
Lady  Waterlow,  117 
La  France,  74,  80,  87,  92,   106,   134, 

136,  137 


La  France  (climbing),  117,  134 

Lamarque,  33,  138 

La  Tosca,  102,  106 

Laure  Davoust,  142 

Laurent  Carle,  106 

Laurette  Messimy,  47,  123,  134,  141 

Lawrenceana,  118 

L^onie  Lamesch,  119,  124,  125,  141 

Leontine  Gervais,  129,  142 

Leuchtfeuer,  123 

Leuchtstern,  loi,  129,  136,  162 

Liberty,  84,  loi,  112,  158 

L'Ideal,  32,  117,  120,  138 

Lina  Schmidt  Michel,  117 

Lucida,  146 

Lucy  Ashlon,  121 

Lutetiana,  151 

Lyons  Rose,  5,  40,  87,  91,  106,  134 

Macartney,  120 

Macrantha,loi,  121,  148 

macrophylla,  146 

Mme.  Abel  Chatenay,  40,  44,  84,  10 1, 

102,  106,  133 
Mme.  Alfred  Carri^re,  32,33,  1 17,  120, 

134.  138 
Mme.  Alice  Garnier,  130 
Mme.  Ancelot,  36 
Mme.  Antoine  Mari,  49,  102,  106,  113, 

134 
Mme.  Ballu,  132 
Mme.  Berard,  51 

Mme.  Constant  Soupert,  96,  98,  134 
Mme.  Cusin,  96,  99,  138,  162 
Mme.  d'Arblay,  29 
Mme.  de  Watteville,  100 
Mme.  Edmee  Metz,  106 
Mme.  Eugene  Resal,  123,  141 
Mme.  Gabriel  Luizet,  iii,  137,  162 
Mme.  Georges  Bruant,  131 
Mme.  Haste,  100,  107 
Mme.  Henri  Berger,  113 
Mme.  Isaac  Pereire,  36,  117,  138 
Mme.  Jean  Dupuy,  102,  107 
Mme.  Jules  Graveraux,  51,  96,  97,  134 
Mme.  Jules  Grolez,  5,  107,  112,  134, 

146,  162 
Mme.  Lambard,  107,  113,  134 
Mme.  Leon  Pain,  107,  112,  134,  157 
Mme.  Lucienne  Willeminot,  36,  132 
Mme.  Maurice  de  Luze,  107,  136,  137 


192 


INDEX    OF    ROSES 


Mme.  Melanie  Soupert,  44,  96,  107 

Mme.  Pernet  Ducher,  loi,  107 

Mme.  Plantier,  34,  I20 

Mme.  Rambaux,  124 

Mme.  Ravary,  43,  84,    lOI,   I02,  107, 

"3,  134 
Mme.  Segond  Weber,  107 
Maddelina  Scalarandis,  123 
Mile,  de  la  Vallelte,  123 
Maharajah,  107,  1 17 
Maman  Cochet,  96,  97,  134 
Ma  Paquerette,  124 
Marechal  Niel,  32,  33,  138 
Marie  Baumann,  137 
Marie  Pare,  36 
Marie  Pavie,  125 
Marie  van  Houtte,  49,  108 
Marquise  de  Salisbury,  43,  108, 112,  162 
Marquise  de  Sinety,  65,  loi,  108 
Marquise  Litta,  40,  80,  95,  134 
Maurice  Bernardin,  ill 
Medea,  96,  97,  134 
Meg  Merrilies,  121 
Mercedes,  132 
micrantha,  152 
microphylla,  146 
Mildred  Grant,  40,  87,  88 
Minnehaha,  i,  31,  129 
mollis,  154 
Molly  Sharman  Crawford,  96,  108,  1 13, 

134,  136,  138 
Morgenroth,  117 
Moschata,  145 
Moyesii,  119 
Mrs.  Alfred  Tate,  108 
Mrs.  Anthony  Waterer,  132 
Mrs.  A.  R.  Waddell,  108,  157 
Mrs.  David  M'Kee,  108 
Mrs.  Edward  Mawley,  96,  97 
Mrs.  E.  G.  Hill,  39,  108,  113,  1 34 
Mrs.  Foley  Hobbs,  100 
Mrs.  G.  W.  Kershaw,  108 
Mrs.  Harold  Brocklebank,  108 
Mrs.  John  Laing,  80,  87,  89,  108,  134, 

136,  157.  162 
Mrs.  Myles  Kennedy,  49,  5 1 
Mrs.  O.  G.  Orpen,  34,  162 
Mrs.  Paul,  36 
Mrs.  R.  G.  Sharman  Crawford,  87,  92, 

108,  134,  162 
Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt,  87,  90,  134 


Mrs.  W.  H.  Cutbush,  119,  125 
Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  80,  87,90,  157 
Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  (climbing),  39,  46, 

117,  120,  134 
multiflora,  129,  144 
Muriel  Grahame,  96,  98,  138 

NiTiDA,  35,  61,  118,  142,  147 
Noella  Nabonnand,  5,  51,  117 
Nova  Zembla,  1 3 1,  142 
Nuttalliana,  119,  142 

Old  Crimson,  123 
Omissa,  152 
Oscar  Cordel,  III 

Papa  Gontier,  5,  102,  108 

Papa  Gontier  (climbing),  46,  117 

Papillon,  49,  51,  102,  117 

Paul  Transon,  142 

Paula,  49,  108 

Paul's  Single  White,  117 

Penzance     Sweetbriars,     6,     10,     30, 

143 
Perl  von  Godesberg,  108 
Perle  d'Or,  102,  124,  125 
Pharisaer,  39,  45,  109,  134,  157 
Philippine  Lambert,  125 
Pisardii,  145 
Pomifera,  152 
Prince  Arthur,  137 
Prince  Camille  de  Rohan,  III 
Prince  de  Bulgarie,  109 
Princess  Bonnie,  137 
Princess  de  Sagan,  49,  50,  I19 
Princess  Marie  Mertchersky,  109 

Queen  Mab,  123,  134 

Refulgence,  121 

Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemberg,  39,  46, 

120,  144,  177 
Rene  Andre,  31,  129,  142 
Repens  alba,  131 
Reve  d'Or,  117,  120 
Rev.  Alan  Cheales,  1 1 1 
Richmond,  84,  102,  109,  XI 3,  1 34,  137, 

157 
Rival  de  Pastum,  123 
R.  muscosa,  145 
R.  nivea,  146 


INDEX    OF    ROSES 


193 


Rosa  Mundi,  34 

Rose-apples,  i  i2 

Rose  a  Perfum  de  I'Hay,  13 1,  132,  142 

Rose  Bradwardine,  1 21 

Rosette  de  la  Legion  d'Honneur,  109 

Rubella,  153 

Rubiginosa,  149,  150,  152,  153 

Rubin,  129 

Sabini,  153 
Seashell,  32,  126 
Sempervirens,  144 
Senateur  Vaisse,  137 
Semphini,  75,  119,  149 
Sericea,  146 
Setigera,  144,  146 
Shower  of  Gold,  129,  133 
Simplicity,  40,  I  lO 
Sinica  Anemone,  120,  146 
Socrates,  138 

Souvenir  dc  Catherine  Guillot,  50 
Souvenir  de  J.  B.  Guillot,  50 
Souvenir  de  la  Malmaison,  36 
Souvenir  d'Elise  Vardon,  96,  100 
Souvenir  de  Pierre  Netting,  96,  97 
Souvenir  de  S.  A.  Prince, "96,  99,  138 
Souvenir  de  Stella  Gray,  138 
Souvenir  de  Wm.  Robinson,  51,  138 
Souvenir  d'un  Ami,  96,  99 
spinosissima,  147,  150,  151 
Spong,  IT,<^ 

Stanwell  Perpetual,  141,  148 
Sulphurea,  iio 

Suzanne    Marie    Rodocanachi,  87,   92, 
112,  134 

Tausendschon,  114,  129 

Tea  Rambler,  29,  loi,  127,  129,  134 


Thalia  (perpetual),  128 

The  Bride,  96,  98,  138,  157,  i  s8 

The  Garland,  29,  loi,  130,  144 

Theresa,  46 

Thusnelda,  132 

Tip-top,  126 

tomentella,  151 

tomentosa,  152 

Trier,  loi,  102,  120,  128 

Tuscany,  34,  135 

Ulrich  Brunnkr,  87,  89,  no,  134 
Una,  loi,  120,  130 

Victor  Hugo,  95,  in 
Villosa,  149,  150,  152,  153 
Viscountess  Folkestone,  no,  137,  162 

Warrior,  no 

White  Dorothy,  31,  129 

White  Killarney,  no 

White  Lady,  40 

White  Maman  Cochet,  96,  134 

White  Pet,  123 

Wichuraiana,  129,  144 

Wilham   Allen   Richardson,   32,    loi, 

102,  117,  120,  134 
William  III.,  119 
William  Shean,  87,  91 
W.  R.  Smith,  100,  no 

Xanthina,  76,  119,  148 
Xavier  Olibo,  x  1 1 

York  and  Lancaster,  34 

Z^PHiRiNE    Drouhin,    36,   74,   no, 
120,  134,  138 


lo/ll  Printed  by  Ballantynk.  Hanson  c^'  Co. 

EJinbuigh  ^^  London 


